post me some questions

[grumpyvette]

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=93&p=2481&hilit=+casting#p2481

 

you need to give me more info

 

if the original intakes on the engine

 

1967-68 3917610 302

1969 3932472 302

 

heads

1967.. 3890462 302,327 2.02 1.6

1967.. 3917264 302 .........2.02 1.6

1967-69 3917291 302,327 2.02 1.6

1968 .. 3928455 302 .......2.02 1.6

1968 ........3931639 302 ......2.02 1.6

 

block

3956618....302.....69....4...Z-28 Camaro

3956618....327...68-69...2

3956618....350.....69....2 or 4

 

or if the heads are off push the piston down to BDC and measure the bore depth

3.00"=302

3.25"=327

3.48"=350

Edited August 21, 2009 by grumpyvette

[DekThaiG35]

Hello Grumpy

 

I'm planning to put 2JZ engine in to my Datsun 240z, I only have a rolling chassis for the Z and the question was, what kind of wiring harness do I need to get my car running?

 

Is this ok?

 

http://stores.ez2wire.com/-strse-37773/AMC-Jeep-Chevy-Chevrolet/Detail.bok

 

-Voravit

[Rustyfriend]

Here is a scenario for you Grumpy...

 

On Monday I finally got around to getting my intake filter for my turbo out of the engine back and out in front of the car. After finishing the install I took it out for a drive until it warmed up, and then I nailed it. Immediately I noticed it is hesitating really bad. I checked timing, its good; checked piping for leaks, same thing. I see no corrosion on any electrical points. The car ran excellent up until this install. The car currently drives around find and the problem only arises when you go to punch it.

 

EDIT: thought I would mention this is an l28et swap from an '82 I believe into a '77 280z

[grumpyvette]

GUYS, when your dealing with the datsun 6 cylinder engines Im going to have to say theres far more knowledgeable people on the site than I am.

Ive only worked on a couple of those engines doing basic repairs and tune-ups and can,t really give you the in depth info Id like to.

If you were local Id suggest swinging bye and IM sure some basic testing on the systems like the fuel supply, ignition, exhaust back pressure, use of a vacuum gauge and a timing light, and a V.O.M. would point to the cause of the problem, ID rather give you no info than bad info, so Id suggest digging out a shop manual or basic references for the type of combo your working with and dropping back to checking basics, because about 90% of the time if you understand the basics you will find the problem source with basic testing

Edited August 26, 2009 by grumpyvette

[Rustyfriend]

Oh ok, my bad Grumpy.

[Iceman]

Hey Grumpy.. I have an '88 350 that I am planning on dropping into my Z. My question is: Can I use the Datsun T-5 that I already have, with the 350? (My T-5 is from an '83 280ZX). Everything I have found refers to Camaro and Vette transmissions, but doesnt specifically say that a Datsun transmission cannot be used. I am planning on going for no higher than 300HP.

[5litre z31]

hello grumpy I have one of those unmentionable 383 crate engines broke a couple parts at 300 klms from new fixed that problem myself as it was cheaper to do than pay transport costs got it through to 1,000 klms no dramas so I put it on the dyno and surprise , surprise the 383 produced a massive 262 rwhp (ha ha) I think that a motor this size should produce more what do you think I am attaching a parts list for you and relavent dyno sheet for informational purposes only thanks 750 vac cust headers single 3 inch exhaust

[grumpyvette]

 

your parts list doesn,t quote detailed info on

intake port size

compression ratio

valve size

rocker ratio

cam lift or duration

which intake was used

intake vacuum readings

ignition timing curve

engine clearances

oil pressure

oil temp.

air temp

fuel pressure

plugs and plug gaps

what headers were used or the back pressure readings at upper rpm levels

etc

so its basically a guessing game, Ive rarely seen so much generalized info posted with no useful or detailed useful info posted

Edited September 3, 2009 by grumpyvette

[zblack280]

I can tell you it has:

195 ports

10.0:1 compression

2.02 and 1.6 valves

1.52 ratio rockers

230-230@0.050 duration with 0.453 lift(in and ex)

weiand accelerator single plain manifold

 

but thats as far as i go with the info.

[grumpyvette]

After making some assumptions based on averages my software makes its wild guess at 420 flywheel hp which translates to 365 rear wheel hp, so obviously theres something not correct, ID start looking at that A/F ratio it looks really rich, it should be closer to 12.9:1 and that cam lift at .453 looks really low,Id verify the cam was degreed in correctly , and the valve train geometry's correct,and ignition timing was correct also

Edited October 25, 2009 by grumpyvette

[5litre z31]

Thank you the motor felt strong but figures were lower than I expected and I will spend more time and effort to get to bottom of it thanks again.

[grumpyvette]

please let us know what you find as it will help others

[jay260z]

Iv a set of sbc heads and not sure what exactly they are, there bolted to an engine so i cant measure the valve size. The casting humber is 3991492, Mortec says there LT1,Camel hump,accessory holes,64cc, straight plug and they do have acc holes. Ive looked at a few other sites and half say regular camel hump heads and some say there 1970 LT1.

 

Is there any way of confirming and will they support around 400-450hp?

 

Thanks

[grumpyvette]

3991492....70......350..........LT1,Camel hump,accessory holes,64cc, straight plug

3991492....70-up................over the counter,Camel hump,64cc, straight or angle plug

 

 

ALMOST ALL the FUELIE heads CAN support 400 plus flywheel hp IF THE OTHER COMPONENTS USED are well matched, and you do a port & bowl area clean up on the heads,clearance them for a .600 valve lift add the right springs and screw in rocker studs and make sure the displacement and compression ratio, and cam timing are carefully matched to the cars gearing, but your dealing with heads that are about 40 year old technology and in questionable condition,

 

want a combo that easily gets there,

build a balanced /correctly clearanced 10.5:1 cpr 383 sbc with

this cam

 

http://www.crower.com/misc/cam_spec/cam_finder.php?part_num=00351&x=36&y=7

 

this intake

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-300-110/

 

full length 1 5/8" tuned headers and a decent 750cfm carb and a good ignition

matched to a 4.11:1 rear gear and a manual transmission, and feed it race octane gas

its going to be a P.I.T.A. on the street but it will get you 400hp at the fly wheel if you do it correctly

 

 

"the question usually goes, hey, got a chance to buy fuelie heads for $100- $500, is this a great deal or what?"

thirty years ago FUELIE HEADS were the HOT TICKET

but your dealing with heads that are thirty year old technology, they will most likey need at least a valve job,new valve guides and new springs and port work, by the time you put that much work and money in those heads youll have more than likely spent more money for worse results than buying the more modern heads that have not had 30 plus years of stress,corrosion,and bad valve jobs

 

http://www.fastnuf.com/Headguide.html

 

HERES AVERAGE FUELIE HEAD FLOW NUMBERS

 

http://www.kendrick-auto.com/462_chevy_head.htm

 

heres two comon performance cylinder heads that are available today measured on the same flow bench

 

http://www.kendrick-auto.com/dart_cs_iron_eagle_215.htm

 

http://www.kendrick-auto.com/brodix_track_i__cs.htm

 

THE CAM AND CYLINDER HEADs are some of the MOST IMPORTANT PARTS ON YOUR ENGINE AS FAR AS DETERMINING YOUR HP/TQ POTENTIAL

YES THE FUELIE HEADS ARE BETTER THAN MOST STOCK HEADS, YES THEY CAN BE PORTED BY EXPERTS AND MAKE GOOD HP,BUT BY TODAYS STANDARDS THEY ARE STILL LESS THAN IDEAL.

EVEN THE COMON VORTEC TRUCK HEADS CAN EASILY OUT FLOW THEM,

 

http://www.kendrick-auto.com/vortec_cs_gm_head.htm

 

DO YOURSELF A HUGE FAVOR AND IF YOU SPEND MONEY ON ALMOST NO OTHER PARTS BUY GOOD HEADS, LOOK AT THESE ENGINE BUILDS

 

http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html

 

THE ONE THING YOULL FIND OUT IS HIGH HP ENGINES REQUIRE GOOD CYLINDER HEADS AND A MATCHING CAM, I CAN,T THINK OF A MUCH BIGGER OR MORE COMON MISTAKE THAT TRYING TO BUILD MAX PERFORMANCE WHILE RESTRICTING THE ENGINES POTENTIAL WITH STOCK HEADS

a rough FORMULA/gauge to guess the hp POTENTIAL FROM THE CYLINDER HEADS FLOW NUMBERS is (.257 x flow at max cam lift x 8= potential max hp)

so if you have 225cfm= about 462 hp

if you have 260cfm= 535 hp

now your highly unlikely to reach MAX HP POTENTIAL but the better heads will almost ALWAYS SHOW that 15% or better results. on a 400hp engine running fuelie heads that is likely to mean you would have had 460hp with the better heads (15% improvement)

look over these heads

ALPHABETICAL ORDER

 

AFR

BRODIX

CANFIELD

DART

EDELBROCK

G.M. PERFORMANCE

PRO ACTION

TRICKFLOW

WORLD PRODUCTS

heads they all have better heads

 

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=240&p=5334&hilit=+numbers#p5334

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=333&p=407#p407

Edited September 9, 2009 by grumpyvette

[tomcraft]

hi grumpy, I have a dream to rebuild my 1971 240 z .It currently has a 383 with a 4 speed m-22.Im looking for a fair reputable shop to build a reliable pump gas 900 hp daily driver .To accomplish this im thinking of going with an lsx 427 with low compression and procharger combo.Id like to run with low boost most of the time but be able to crank it up with little effort.I feel if its built right this combo can last 100,000 mi.do you feel that this is a doable goal ? Any suggestions on who can handle putting together the whole build.The whole drivetrain would need to be upgraded along with frame.thanks

[sweetride2go]

Hey grumpy, I have a chevy small block with less than 200 miles on it, but it keeps 'pushing' oil out from the base of the distributor on the intake manifold. The dizzy is one of those aluminum MSD knockoffs. Also, my oil pressure seems quite high, I have to let the engine come to operating temp before I drive otherwise I can hit 90+ psi at 2500-3000 rpm.

 

Thanks

Ryan~

 

PS: This was a great read on oil pressure, thanks again. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=67892

[grumpyvette]

do you have the GASKET between the intake and distributor housing, and a decent clamp?

 

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1009/?image=large

[rsicard]

Tomcraft: To get where you want to go maybe the easiest way to get there is with a Magnacharger supercharger. Best to start out with a LSx cast iron block and proceed from there.

[tomcraft]

Tomcraft: To get where you want to go maybe the easiest way to get there is with a Magnacharger supercharger. Best to start out with a LSx cast iron block and proceed from there.

thats the plan im just trying to find someone who can put it all together.Or ideas on the best engine/drivetrain combo.my drum brakes are shot so before anything i have to do a rear disk brake conversion.Grumpy do you have any info on that ,the dream can wait i have to get to work safely first.Im sorry about the original post after i read it i wanted to delete it.So vague

[grumpyvette]

thats the plan im just trying to find someone who can put it all together.Or ideas on the best engine/drivetrain combo.my drum brakes are shot so before anything i have to do a rear disk brake conversion.Grumpy do you have any info on that ,the dream can wait i have to get to work safely first.Im sorry about the original post after i read it i wanted to delete it.So vague

 

 

which rear axle are you using and wanting to convert to disc brakes?

Ill look thru my notes if its an American made rear, if its the datsun rear diff, Im sorry,I have usually discarded those during the conversion process so I don,t have any info

EXAMPLE 9" FORD

DANA 60

CHEVY 12 BOLTS