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Heck AFR 195's seem a tad small for a 434 sbc. I would def. think a 750 would be a tad small. I have a set of the AFR 210's on my 385 and love them, I am running a Proform 750 on my 385 and have entertained going to a 830-850 Demon.

 

Your engine builder knows your combo though, maybe he's right?

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Ive built 383,396,421 and 427 SBC combos and used both the 195cc and 210cc AFR, brodix 180,200cc , trickflow, 195, 215 and dart 200cc,-230cc heads,and Ive used the 750cfm and 850cfm carbs.

 

ok theres very little gained with swap between the 750/850 cfm carbs in either direction, both are almost interchangeable with the correct tuning in my opinion, but ID prefer the 750cfm about 90% of the time, as its slightly crisper in the throttle response and Id doubt youll give up 3 hp at peak with the small rated carb

 

the 195cc class heads produce slightly more low rpm torque, the 210-230cc slightly more peak hp,in a combo thats set up correctly to take full advantage of either heads characteristics, again the difference is more in the intake, cam, compression and exhaust tuning, but given a choice id select the 210cc heads about 75% of the time if the peak hp was the goal and the 195cc on a car used mostly on the street, as a general rule if I use a single plane intake, and a cam with about 240 plus duration,and 10.2:1 or higher compression, I tend to select the 210-230cc heads, on a dual plane intake , with a cam having under 240 duration,and 10.1:1 or lower compression, Id select the 195-200cc class heads, keep in mind its that total combo with the rear gearing, exhaust and transmission taken into the calculations that matters not a single component

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=796

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=333

Edited by grumpyvette
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280Z, I had the same problem, but with less miles. I found that the distributor wasn't sitting on the intake, so the clamp was pushing the dizzy down onto the oil pump drive shaft. I bought a shim kit for the dizzy so it would sit properly, and this also dropped the oil pressure a tad, but for me that isn't a problem since mine is high anyways. I haven't put many miles on it since or checked the gear. Also, I ended up going with a composite gear, so if I get around to checking it, I will let you know.

 

I also noticed that my dizzy has two O-rings on the base of it, and after reading what Grumpy said, maybe this is creating a lubrication problem for the two gears? My dizzy is similar to this one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8361/?image=large hopefully grumpy can chime in on this because now I'm curious.

 

Ryan~

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some of the better distributors with o-ring grooves have a small oil hole drilled between the o-rings that allows a steady stream of pressurized oil to enter the lower distributor shaft, the upper bearing is sealed so oil can,t exit into the upper distributor, but oil is routed to lube the lower bearing in the distributor, the oil exits to spray over the cam gear/distributor gear contact area, look closely at yours

non-o-ring distributor base , that relies on tight clearances to limit oil flow from the blocks oil passages

 

PICT0004-18.jpg

 

 

notice the o-rings on these distributor bases used to limit oil loss from the oil passages in the block,

msd-8513.jpg

maa-3248201_w.jpg

Edited by grumpyvette
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is it possible to nix the part that has the 'y'(2 into 1) and just run 2 exhuast pipes from the header to the rear bumper?

thanks! good find btw

 

any truly dedicated/ and persistent hot rodder with a goal will find a way to build darn near anything he sets his mind to, and if youve got a decent welder and average skill thats a huge plus

heres some tools to help

http://www.metalgeek.com/static/cope.pcgi

http://pipemastertools.com/store/page1.html

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=260&p=315#p315

Edited by grumpyvette
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Get ready for some Q&A Grumpy!! The project is underway!!

 

P.S. Remember me?? formerly Long Rod 327?? I worked @ Performance Plus in Dublin and I remember conversing with you on the phone and online. You were always very helpful and a hardcore car guy like myself! I am putting the Vic. Jr. headed 388 in my 240Z over the next 6 mos. or so and I am looking forward to getting your input and expertise sprinkled through my car! She's gutted now and sitting @ 2190 lbs. 500 flywheel horsepower should get me started until the forged 383 is done. Thanks in advance, I will have alot of questions for ya old friend...

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Hi grumpy! I know this is a chevy thread but... i was wondering if you had any clue where i can get the thrust washer from behind the cam sprocket? i seem to have broke mine and cant find any.

Thanks Justin

 

 

it might help if you told me the year and brand and displacement of the engines that your referencing too? especially since you hint strongly its not a chevy engine, but don,t give other info??

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I've got a question for you. I'm building a 383 and I've been reading a lot of conflicting info on rod length. Would you go with a 5.7", 5.85", or 6" rod and why? The car will be a street car that will see a lot of drag racing and probably some autocross and road courses too.

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I've got a question for you. I'm building a 383 and I've been reading a lot of conflicting info on rod length. Would you go with a 5.7", 5.85", or 6" rod and why? The car will be a street car that will see a lot of drag racing and probably some autocross and road courses too.

 

the 5.7 are the easiest to use and generally provide decent clearance, the 6" require the piston pin be located up into the lower oil ring and whiles its do-able its not ideal.

the 6" in theory provides a couple extra high rpm horse power if the correct cam and headers are used, to maximize the high rpm cylinder scavenging, due to its longer dwell time near TDC and the piston can be made shorter and lighter in weight, and theres a very slight reduction in friction, but in the real world the rod length, is a flip of the coin decision, but ID suggest you use aftermarket rods with 7/16" ARP rod bolts in either case,and spend a good deal of time thinking thru your valve train clearances, and geometry, and lube system as its the rod bolt strenght, or a valve train control issue, or lack of pressurized and cooling oil flow thats the critical factor in many engine failures

 

read these

 

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=510&hilit=+rods

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1168

 

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1110

Edited by grumpyvette
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