Evan Purple240zt Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 WD-40 gets own3d by PB Blaster in every test I've ever performed. If you havent ever used it, I'd suggest picking up a can of it. It can be had at any major parts store..... Seafoam deep creep or Kroil pwns PB blaster. In a pinch, PB does work well. WD40 is child play compared to this stuff. Evan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booztd 3 Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 Seafoam deep creep or Kroil pwns PB blaster. In a pinch, PB does work well. WD40 is child play compared to this stuff. Evan When times get tough.......I pull out the R.G.S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 13, 2008 Share Posted October 13, 2008 WD-40 gets own3d by PB Blaster in every test I've ever performed. If you havent ever used it, I'd suggest picking up a can of it. It can be had at any major parts store..... tried finding it in toronto, no luck thus far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted October 16, 2008 Author Share Posted October 16, 2008 removed the flywheel with the impact gun/compressor. got it machined and reinstalled everything. thanks guys for the help, now it's on to a loooong break-in ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnickel Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 For what it's worth, from my clutch research, the clutchmasters are looking good. Aparantly in a direct test on a Ford Probe DXD (south bend) vs Clutchmasters PP, the Probe one was near stock levels, where the Clutchmasters had significantly more. Additionally, they use geometry to maintain a stock pedal feel (think leverage). http://www.rr-racing.com/SB.htm comparison. Specifically i'm looking at the segmented kevlar fx300 rated at 110% over stock load. Upon emailing them, they stated about 425lb ft of torque. That's not quite 110% of the stock 220 ft lbs, but still pretty good for my goals (350whp RB25). They are retail @ $500, but i swear i saw them on ebay a while back for only $300. Now all i can find is $405 ish. I might call them directly and see what sorta deal i can get. What clutch did you end up choosing? EDIT: Upon further investigation, i found that the PP tests might be biased. Another showed the DXD plate doing aprox 28% increase over stock which is close to their 30% claim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted October 16, 2008 Author Share Posted October 16, 2008 What clutch did you end up choosing? ha, almost forgot ... i ended up ordering a competition 4 puck sprung clutch from JGY. it was 380 shipped and is supposed to hold up to 650ft#'s ... i'm at about 1/2 that, so i'll have room to grow, and there's more of a chance it'll actually hold it (my last clutch wasn't near whatever it claimed). we'll see how street-able it is, but that's for another day, i still have to reinstall the exhaust, driveshaft, etc ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 ha, almost forgot ... i ended up ordering a competition 4 puck sprung clutch from JGY. it was 380 shipped and is supposed to hold up to 650ft#'s ... i'm at about 1/2 that, so i'll have room to grow, and there's more of a chance it'll actually hold it (my last clutch wasn't near whatever it claimed). we'll see how street-able it is, but that's for another day, i still have to reinstall the exhaust, driveshaft, etc ... Did you order the one Andy is using? *Edit* never mind, I got the company mixed up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 for what it's worth, you can get this from rockauto.com CENTERFORCE Part # CFT534007 Centerforce II; Clutch Kit; Size 9 7/16 in.; 24 Spline By 1 in.; Incl. Pressure Plate/Clutch Disc; Does Not Incl. Throwout Bearing $309.79 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booztd 3 Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 ha, almost forgot ... i ended up ordering a competition 4 puck sprung clutch from JGY. it was 380 shipped and is supposed to hold up to 650ft#'s ... i'm at about 1/2 that, so i'll have room to grow, and there's more of a chance it'll actually hold it (my last clutch wasn't near whatever it claimed). we'll see how street-able it is, but that's for another day, i still have to reinstall the exhaust, driveshaft, etc ... 4 puck? thats going to be a bitch to drive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryan01 Posted October 17, 2008 Author Share Posted October 17, 2008 4 puck? thats going to be a bitch to drive i talked to the company, talked to people with it installed, and decided to give it a try. the car is going to be interesting to drive anyways, so i'm not to worried about it, but i'll let everyone know how it goes as far as feel, driveability, and holding power after the break-in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted October 19, 2008 Share Posted October 19, 2008 EDIT: Another question... Fidanza states that the flywheel bolts going on an Aluminum flywheel need to be torqued higher than the standard steel-flywheel specification... but they don't make mention of how tight...Anyone wanna enlighten me? That's funny. Because ARP says just the opposite with head bolts and studs. Aluminum expands more, so the given torque value when using aluminum heads is less... Then the Internal Combustion Handbook by SAE says that torque values are given for worst-case scenario friction (extremely slippery) to keep from over-tightening bolts. And that even then, the actual preload force when tightening by torque varies as much as +/-25% from fastener to fastener, and therefore are given at around 75% of the fasteners yield under the worst-case friction... Did that make sense?? I'd say it's OK to torque them to what the directions say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fentin_fury Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 i use the JGY clutch and flywheel - no problems. I was at 430hp at the wheels before the build - much higher now i suggest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Careless Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 That's funny. Because ARP says just the opposite with head bolts and studs. Aluminum expands more, so the given torque value when using aluminum heads is less... Then the Internal Combustion Handbook by SAE says that torque values are given for worst-case scenario friction (extremely slippery) to keep from over-tightening bolts. And that even then, the actual preload force when tightening by torque varies as much as +/-25% from fastener to fastener, and therefore are given at around 75% of the fasteners yield under the worst-case friction... Did that make sense?? I'd say it's OK to torque them to what the directions say LOL no wonder nissan's keep having clutch problems. Companies are out to get us! I'd say it's OK to torque them to what the directions say After reading the 25 percent margin for error, that's exactly what I intended to do. I got all new nissan bolts, and not ARP ones. But I think at or around stated factory ft.lbs it will be ok. Thank you, sir. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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