islanddozer Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 sounds to me like a relay is sticking. check your efi relays and check coil for power. draws from ecu good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 Have you considered pulling your dashboard out??? I've got an absolute MESS to take care of to get my Z alive again (yah, I don''t ever drive it or work on it; I'm just here because the cars are in my blood ) BUT the moment I realized the damage was SO extensive that I needed to pull the dash to inspect the whole wire harness.... Honestly, everything got easier in my head. More work, for sure, but easier. I knew that every ground would be checked and cleaned, every connection inspected and cleaned.... ..Try it if you have the free time. With the dash upside down and all the wiring exposed, you can build what you need from the parts Nissan gave you and know 100% of it. NO PIECE of that harness will be unknown by you; you will know which is what going where, and you will be able to make sense of the wire diagrams, and life will be TITS. I think it may be worth it.. but its your call. I realize I am proposing a metric crap-ton of work for you to add onto your already unenjoyable jobless lifestyle... BUT you have to admit, it isn't an expensive solution, cash-wise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted January 28, 2009 Author Share Posted January 28, 2009 I appreciate the tip but I dont think it is a solution, I know the EFI and ignition harness, both stock and zxt, pretty well at this point and as far as Ive seen at no time does the EFI harness go up under the dash and rely on any of those connections to run. But I do appreciate the idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islanddozer Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 I am new to this and somehow i quick replied but it doesn't show here. O well I suggest you check the power to the coil. It is powered by the ecu and will show if you have power to the ecu. Another suggestion is to check the relays for the efi. There should be three relays above the fuse panel on the pass. kick panel. fuel pump ignition accessory I would check these out. Should be interchangeable. The EFI relay is located at the battery Then 2 relays for the fuel pump in the relay box Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naviathan Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 The EFI harness doesn't go any further under the dash than the ECU and a single switched power from the ignition switch. The EFI relay is likely suspect as well as the fusible links. Just because they make contact and look ok, doesn't mean they are. I've seen links corrode inside the spade connector around the wire making it hard to see and almost impossible to test as a problem. Having completely removed my EFI harness for MS I know it rather well...sadly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted January 28, 2009 Share Posted January 28, 2009 I say check the green relay that plugs into the brown relay holder that is over by the battery. I know if its unplugged it will not work run so you might want to test it with a 9volt battery and a multimeter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted January 28, 2009 Author Share Posted January 28, 2009 Alright I will be sure to check my relays, Im not sure how to to do that exactly but Im sure I can figure it out. I think I even have a spare EFI relay somewhere, the trick is finding it. where did I put that little thing... And when I said I checked my fusible links I didnt mean simply looking at them, I took them off and tested to make sure power flew through them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islanddozer Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 to check the relays first see if there is power going to relay by removing the relay, ign. on and put test light in holder. find power then put relay in and on backside of holder with relay in, the power should be transfered to at least 1 other lead. Should click when ign is turned on/off. Like I said they are also transferable. So the 3 relays on pass. kick panel can be swapped. And the relays in the relay box can also be swapped with same colour relay. try the headlight relay in the efi spot providing the headlights work with realy in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 Well I got it running again tonight, the problem was a combo of a bad CAS and a bad ECU... after that and some fidling with the timing she fired right up. I was happy. There are still a few kinks that I need to work out though, The altenator doesnt charge, the dash lights wont come on, and the car was STUPID SLOW when it was off boost. I am fairly sure that all of these are connected, running on 4v's could cause the slowness and maybe the lights, so I will check all of that wiring tomorrow, and I already have another alt if I need it. Tonight was a good night. Thanks everybody for your help, and if you happen to have any ideas about the kinks I wouldnt mine hearing them although Im pretty sure I can take care of it. Oh, and my brand new but stock type clutch with like 100 miles on it slipped pretty bad, I had to toy the throttle on boost to get it to catch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calpoly-z Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Glad the ECU got to you. A thought on the clutch, though. If there really is only 100 miles on the clutch then you need to break it in. Especially if it's a stock organic type clutch. Unfortunately, you need to give it a few hundred miles before hitting the boost too hard. Let the clutch seat to the flywheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Make sure you have the correct throw out collar in there also. I think the turbo clutch takes a thinner one than the 260 does. I had that problem. Smoked my first clutch because of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted February 6, 2009 Author Share Posted February 6, 2009 Got the charging problem fixed, had it running real good and the ECU finaly started going into closed loop mode... then I blew my headgasket. The gasket had been on and off the head a few times during engine assembly so it wasnt that good anyways, But really, why is my car only problem free for two day bursts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 It'll come together eventually - keep up the hard work! Do you still have fusible links? Mine gave me soo much crap, I replaced them about a month ago and ive had Zero problems on the electronic side of things. I was dealing with not getting charge from the alternator as well. Sorry another question - do you have ARP head studs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted February 6, 2009 Author Share Posted February 6, 2009 Yeah I am still using the fusible links... one of mine actually burnt up today and I have no idea why. And yeah, The engine has ARP hardware, so thats a big plus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islanddozer Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 Blowing a head gasket ? Had it off a few times durring assembly ? Clutch slipping because it was used ? A few questions make me think you need to plan things a little more to save yourself some greef. Just my 2 cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted February 6, 2009 Author Share Posted February 6, 2009 Blowing a head gasket ? Had it off a few times durring assembly ? Clutch slipping because it was used ? A few questions make me think you need to plan things a little more to save yourself some greef. Just my 2 cents Thanks for the concern but Im not sure where you are getting your info, please reread the thread, clutch was new, it was slipping because of the power. and blowing a head gasket is not at all uncommon in the early stages of a turbo build, if you disagree try a search. oh, and I didnt put the engine together, I bought it from a friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islanddozer Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 you said clutch had a 100 miles on it, not new and a properly installed clutch does not slip if installed on fresh grounded flyweel. Once a head gasket is installed the head should not be removed unless you replace that gasket. I have worked on 50 le28 engines, turbo and non and I DO know what I am talking about. Not one head gasket has ever needed to be replaced. You can't half-ass a engine rebuild and expect no problems. That is all I was saying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJLamberson Posted February 6, 2009 Author Share Posted February 6, 2009 I bought the clutch brand new, installed it, drove the car for 100 miles, then converted the engine to turbo... and yeah, it was installed properly, and I never installed a used clutch on my car. Its a simple problem of the clutch not being able to hold the increased torque. And maybe you missed the part where I bought the engine? why did I buy an engine when I know the headgasket wasnt in the best condition you ask? Well it had new ARP head studs and exhaust/intake studs and I paid 75$ for the thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islanddozer Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 I'm sorry if I come accross as critical. I know you have put alot time into this project, and I don't want to discourage you. Not my intention. You will be pulling the top end to replace that head gasket. My advice is to purchase a complete engine gasket kit and pull that motor. Ok it had some bling on it but you don't need any grief. I use only felpro gaskets and have always been happy. Personally, it sounds like the head and block needs to be check for warpage to be on the safe side. $25 at a machine shop or straight rule and feeler guages. Check the bearings and rings. Won't cost you anything and you will have piece of mind. While you are the machine shop, you might want to have that flywheel ground for $15. It'll save that clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvmy280zxt Posted June 12, 2009 Share Posted June 12, 2009 Just curious, hows the build going? did u get it running yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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