Jump to content
HybridZ

Intake mouth ported for 60mm TB


zbigtim

Recommended Posts

just to add a little, heres my adapted linkage.

 

I used all of the linkage from the ZX throttle body and just did a little trimming :mrgreen:

 

 

 

IMG_0147.jpg

SX tb with the Z linkage

IMG_0149.jpg

 

making the "stopper"

IMG_0150.jpg

had an "arm" here that I cut off ^ (it was the arm that has the hole for the spring in it)

 

IMG_0152.jpg

and trimmed this "arm" down.^

 

 

IMG_0158.jpg

and of course shaft has been trimmed and re-threaded since it originally has two cable things on it.

and the rest slides on as seen in the pics.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I go with BRAAP on the 'dimples'---they all get removed... though I simply install the injector screws with some loctite blue, or PST567 to seal the threads.

 

I don't use the stock screws, either, for stock mounts they get stainless steel button-head allen screws or SS Standard head Allens. Makes wrenching them tight or loose easy as pie with a dimple-ended Bondhus Allen Key set.

 

For an O-Ring injector setup, the holes get plugged for sure with the SS Button heads and 567PST. It allows 'reversing' to go back to a standard rail and injector setup easier, and the SS doesn't rust and they look cool as heck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

On my N47 head '77 car, I mounted the 240SX throttle directly to the intake manifold. A universal (adjustable) Lokar throttle cable worked quite well. I did NOT need a spacer to make it work, but I used the 240SX TPS with my Megasquirt. The 240SX throttle position sensor is a standard ~0.5V to 5.0V rheostat setup.

 

As an aside, the pictures listed above show the incorrect bit for the job. That is a steel bit, whereas you need an aluminum bit. They have bigger, but fewer flutes. A steady shot of WD40 onto the bit and the work area will make VERY short work of it. Make sure you have a stainless bristle brush. Stop very frequently and run the bristles across the flutes to knock any built up aluminum off (this also works for files). This will keep the grinding bit (which is quite expensive, ~$35) cool and in good condition. Otherwise, you will pack the flutes with aluminum, it doesn't cut and therefore gets hot and blunts the flutes or breaks pieces of them off.

 

Likewise, regarding the bumps on the inside of the runners, I knocked them down and only went through on one. A good set of screws and some teflon thread sealant (or equivalent) will work just fine to keep it from leaking. The other threaded holes in the intake manifold seal well enough with the same thing. As the above poster said, finding good screws that aren't loose makes all the difference.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

what affect does removing the coolant hose from the tb have on performance?

 

Unless you want perfect manners in very cold weather when it first starts up, just remove them if you are so inclined. My own car is nowhere near that, but I've done the same thing on modern turbo cars that were a daily driver (WRX, EVO, STi, etc.) and never had an issue firing up in freezing weather.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...