Challenger Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 Whats the likeliness of actual oil coming out of the spark plug holes rather than it being burnt in the combustion chamber? (except if there was a TON of oil) It also seems as was mentioned it would only come out if the spark plugs werent tight. last week was finals week so i had some free time.. Seems kind of backwards.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bco6 Posted December 16, 2008 Author Share Posted December 16, 2008 First thanks for the advice guys! A loose spark plug would be great....i took them off and cleaned them on a wire wheel and changed the seal ring then ran the car around my drive way and idled for a few minutes and no oil came out but the plug was covered with oil....I am back at school in upstate NY now, the wideband is in....in PA. I will be back in PA on thursday to run the car down to get dry then wet compression test. how much is this going to cost? I don't want to get scammed..i heard in the 100 dollar range. sound reasonable? Thanks again for the advice! it is saving me time and money! Oh and ......I had 5 days and only one test last week, so yes...lots of free time.......12 credit minimun is great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted December 16, 2008 Share Posted December 16, 2008 I would do it yourself, takes 5 minutes and is super easy. I am sure if you cant find some one around you willing to lend you a compression gauge then I am sure you can buy or rent one from you local auto parts store. FYI - do the dry test before the wet test. Seems it would be common sense buy you never know. If the plugs are oily again then yes, something is possibly not good in that motor of your. But I guess thats what happens when some one just turns the boost up on a car that is not designed for it. I would do the compression test first thing at this point. no sense in spending money to fix little problems with a motor that has a big problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradyzq Posted December 17, 2008 Share Posted December 17, 2008 If you are going to pay for a test to be performed on your engine, I would suggest a leak-down test. It will tell you a lot more than a compression test (which you should also do anyways). With a leak-down test, you can find the source of compression loss (intake/exhaust valves not closing completely, head gasket leaking into coolant passages, etc). That test could cost $100, though I hope it would be less. It would probably be charged on the clock since the test is much quicker if you don't have to find the "leak-down" (IOW if the engine is in good health, it'll be cheaper). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bco6 Posted December 20, 2008 Author Share Posted December 20, 2008 Ok Guys, Got a Christmas tree Thursday, had surgery Friday, but I got the compression test done today. bought the kit and did it myself. here are the results DRY then WET. I let it turn over 4 to 4 1/2 times per test DRY 6=137 5=137 4= 137 3=135 2= 137 1=137 WET 6=152 5= 153 4=160 3=155 2=160 1=158 let me know what you think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted December 22, 2008 Share Posted December 22, 2008 Ok Guys, Got a Christmas tree Thursday, had surgery Friday, but I got the compression test done today. bought the kit and did it myself. here are the results DRY then WET. I let it turn over 4 to 4 1/2 times per test DRY 6=137 5=137 4= 137 3=135 2= 137 1=137 WET 6=152 5= 153 4=160 3=155 2=160 1=158 let me know what you think that is really good for an old beater. Mine is 100psi across the board (yeah, little worn out). Still got me into the 11's though. Maybe valve stem seals or the turbo may be fried. Is the oil only on some of the plugs or was it all of them. You may get lucky and just need some valve stem seals. If you pull the intake hose off the turbo, with your thumb and index finger wiggle the copressor blade. How does the shaft play feel? More than like a tinny shake and it could be shot. If you pull the J-Pipe off the throttle body is there alot of oil everywhere? some is ok, you should know if there is too much. Or take some pics. Any wideband readings yet? Really only would be intrested in the nummbers @ WOT. get someone to ride with you and do a 3rd gear pull. See if they are good enough to remember the numbers at each 1000rpm mark. Do multiple passes and write them down if needed. What also works well as a poormans datalog is to place the wideband display near the tach and video your runs:mrgreen:. Your doing good so far...Keep it up!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bco6 Posted December 22, 2008 Author Share Posted December 22, 2008 Sounds good... i was worried. I was able to take off the intake hose and shake the compressor blade. It seemed to shake a little but not too much...tough to tell .. i never have done it before. But it seemed to spin rather easy. I could not get the j tube off it seemed to be connected to 100 things. Also there was not any oil on the plugs after I cleaned them after the compression test. I do think it is running rich, you can smell it at low rpm's AS for the wideband...it will have to take a back seat.. I live in the mountains of Pennsylvianna and a 1/2 mile driveway straight up. Its got a sheet of ice and snow on it. I am shifting my efforts to stripping the car for paint so it will be straight and rust free for the spring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted December 23, 2008 Share Posted December 23, 2008 i am sure the flapper door (afm) has been jacked with to run those boost levels, so yeah, rich. FYI - you can just sticck thee wideband like 6 inches down the tail pipe to get and idle afr reading. Yeah, I would not plan on useing that turbo much longer. Good luck spraying in the cold...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B00STDZ Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 So I have an l28et, stock fuel system/injectors/ecu, huge intercooler, turbosmart blowoff valve, stock t3 turbo, 2" intake piping. Could I run 15 lbs of boost on this setup? People have told me that it would run lean. From reading early on in this thread I've read that a BOV after the A/f meter tricks the ecu to run rich. So now I've come to the conclusion maybe it would work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzzzed Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 i was reading in the second post in this thred that a z31 turbo ecu will run a l28et is this a definet yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B00STDZ Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 yes you can run a turbo z31 ecu on an l28et, but you also need the z31 turbo wiring harness Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzzzed Posted January 10, 2009 Share Posted January 10, 2009 well thats the best news have heard all day. Especialy seing that i come from australia the home of the nistune ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 So I have an l28et, stock fuel system/injectors/ecu, huge intercooler, turbosmart blowoff valve, stock t3 turbo, 2" intake piping. Could I run 15 lbs of boost on this setup? People have told me that it would run lean. From reading early on in this thread I've read that a BOV after the A/f meter tricks the ecu to run rich. So now I've come to the conclusion maybe it would work? it does not "trick it to run rich". It WILL run rich but ONLY on a shift. Ever see a car blast flames on a shift. Yeah, usually from a boosted car with a blow off valve instead of a recurc valve. I recomend you searching if you have not found your answer in this thread as to wether or not you can turn the boost up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B00STDZ Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 it does not "trick it to run rich". It WILL run rich but ONLY on a shift. Ever see a car blast flames on a shift. Yeah, usually from a boosted car with a blow off valve instead of a recurc valve. I recomend you searching if you have not found your answer in this thread as to wether or not you can turn the boost up. I have read the whole thread. I have not really driven the car much because right after the swap it went to the body shop. So I have no clue what boost it is running right now. I have bought a plug to screw into the release valve on the intake. I have AEM Tru Boost. When I install the tru boost controller/guage, I was planning on setting my boost to 15 lbs. I have run out of money on this project to buy a wideband sensor or an aem wideband uego controller guage... What should I run on this setup? I do not have a wideband nor have money to buy one for the next 6 months. I'm thinking maybe 10-12 lbs of boost... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted January 11, 2009 Share Posted January 11, 2009 you should run factory boost until you can afford a wideband. It is that simple. wideband $200 new motor $200 - $1000 and up. Depending on if you do the work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.