BRAD D Posted August 20, 2002 Share Posted August 20, 2002 I’m installing a RB26DETT in to my 73z. For now the RB will be stock but I am looking in to upgrading the turbo’s and injectors so I can run higher boost. I just want to be able to run 11.00 ¼ miles. And that brings me to my problem I need t run an R200 or R230 in the rear. So I have a few questions #1 what ratio should I run with the GTS-T 5 speed? #2 what type of half shaft /CV’s should I run. What do I need to make them work?? #3 is some one selling that AMC/zx CV set up? And what parts do I need to make it work? Any help would be great thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 21, 2002 Share Posted August 21, 2002 Ask Stony (Rb26) which rearend. That motor puts out some TORQUE and it just might make you think twice about CV's and independent rear ends, that is if your drag racing it alot (or even a bit, I believe he already broke some solid U-joints and even with good CV's I'd expect you'd see some broken stub axles, depends on your launch and traction though I guess.) Good luck with it. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z ya Posted August 21, 2002 Share Posted August 21, 2002 Its not the hp that the r200 cant handle its the shock of a stick type tranny. Many guys on the board run 500 to 600hp through autos and have no problems. Then there are stick guys with 250 hp and break stuff all the time. Its when you shock the axles that stuff goes bye bye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R0N Posted August 21, 2002 Share Posted August 21, 2002 Stony recently broke his axles and mention probably drive shaft. All you need is bigger injectors with the boost turned up to get into the 10's. He achieved 11.12 @ 120.??mph and only HAD a large IC, completely stock motor, and a SDS Engine Management with slicks of course. This is on a 260Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 21, 2002 Share Posted August 21, 2002 I mentioned Torque, not HP. Big difference. You can have 500 hp but the torque can be lower than a motor with less HP and more torque. An example, although extreme, I just found a place modifying Cummins diesels in dodges. Stage III setup, big injectors, turbo, tweaked wastegate and computer along with some other mods only 750 hp... with 1000 ft/lbs of torque! You are correct though, shocking it with a stick car and slicks will definitely take out U-joints, driveshafts etc. IMHO, if the car gets drag raced EXCLUSIVELY and your not worried about the supposed handling differences (is there such a thing when people run welded rear R200's, I doubt it), then all the mods and expense of reocurring driveline breakage is just a bandade and until you back half the car and put in a suitable live axle, it'll keep happening. Sure the Vette rear ends and all can be done, but unless you get one for a song, its not much cheaper than back halfing the car if you can fabricate things yourself. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 1fastz Posted August 30, 2002 Share Posted August 30, 2002 i make over 700 foot pounds of torque and my half shafts lived a long happy life until i started shooting a 300 shot and makeing over 800 foot pounds. all the way to the 9.80s before i ever broke one .. runing a 383 with a 200 shot on it . there is absolutely no reason for someon with a drag oriented automatic z to use anything but a r-200 limited unit out of a 300 z until they are in the low tens or better. its the suden shock that shears them not the tourqe breaking them . there are a few simply things you do and it will keep thehalfshafts alive no problem well into the tens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 1, 2002 Share Posted September 1, 2002 I am now making 394RWHP with 680cc injectors and 15PSI. im running a 2 core silvia intercooler which is about the same as a stock gtr intercooler. My best mph is 127mph with 11.2 et and my best et was 11.1 at 120 last year. As mentioned above even with wimpy launches and 2.0 60foot times im shreading ujoints. this is the only thing ive had break on the car. ive broke just about every ujoint on the market. i did make a whole day at the track thinking i didnt break anything till i got home and looked at stuff closely. I found one of the joint caps had shattered and was just flopping around in there. I am currently shopping for a 8.8 or 9 inch but now that i think about it again maybe i should go automatic. there are adapters available to adapt just about any gm tranny to the rb but then i would have to regear the rear ( I think???) If i went with a auto any suggestions on which one? Id like to keep the gearing and just install the auto and go. But if an auto, and regearing is all id have to do that would be alot cheaper then backhalving the car with a nine inch!!!! scotty what tranny are you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted September 1, 2002 Share Posted September 1, 2002 Scotties running the GN 200R4 trans. It's alittle differant than the 200R4's that come in other GM cars of the same period. It's beefier. A 'Glide and a seriously low gearset(higher numerically) would work great in your car. They are reasonably cheap and the transbrakes are also. What is your trap RPM? Or better question would be; What do you want your trap RPM to be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awd92gsx Posted September 1, 2002 Share Posted September 1, 2002 You know, DSM's have a very similiar issue, but not with the axles...it's with the center differential... Most people end up shattering them running into the 12's, but I've heard of people shattering them on 13 second cars...all from the launch... There was one guy, Al Blaha, that, if I remember right was able to dip into the 10's without ever opening up his tranny... Now, if I remember right, the way he was able to do this was by using brake line locks and preloading his driveline, while locking down his rear brakes...that way, when he launched, his drivetrain didn't suffer as much shock when he dumped the clutch... Something to maybe think about??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 1, 2002 Share Posted September 1, 2002 right now my trap rpm is perfect but im running 225 50 15 dr. this puts me just above 6900 rpm in 4th as i cross the line. with the 275 50 15 im just shifting into 4th as i cross the line I have never raced with an auto so i have no idea on what i need. I want one that will withstand 500-600 HP. Im not going to use a trans brake as this is similar to a clutch launch isnt it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fl327 Posted September 2, 2002 Share Posted September 2, 2002 where would you get a built auto for the rb26? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted September 2, 2002 Share Posted September 2, 2002 th 350 or 400, a shop in austrailia makes an adapter for it and it costs 350 bucks for everything. all i need is a starter tranny and converter to go racing ;>/ Of course a driveshaft to ;> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.