rossman Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 (edited) Update time... Pulled the engine from the car. I did this mainly to run the fuel line up in the tunnel. It's going to be tight. I'll be surprised if I get it right the first time . While I had the engine out, yep, you guessed it, got another case of "while I'm at it." Decided to look for the plastic pieces that chipped off my brand new Precision injectors. Wanna guess where they are? That's right, down in the combustion chambers, cylinders and valve seats. Oh well, I can only blame my self. Mea Culpa! In my frustration with the Precision injectors I purchased a new set of RC injectors that have machined aluminum tips. Hindsight I should have just replaced the pintle caps on the Precision injectors but its too late for that now. Anybody need a essentially new flow matched set of Precision low impedance 11mm o-ring injectors? IIRC they are 750 cc. I'll make you a good deal. I put #1 on TDC compression stroke, wedged my trusty craftsman screw driver handle in the timing chain and pulled the head. The metal head gasket came off in one piece. I called Dave Rebello to see if I can reuse the gasket. He has done it before with no problem. Just need to apply a thin coat of Permatex Copper Coat. When we were talking I mentioned that the cam sprocket and timing chain were both on #1. He stated that my recollection was most likely wrong and advised me to check it. He instructed me how to verify and it checked out 1 on 1. I think he is still in disbelief but it checked out. I'm going to check it again when I get the head back on. While the head is off I threaded the 12 mm (!) coolant bypass passage in the block. The turbo coolant lines will serve as a sufficient bypass. Got the idea from Tony D. on the Head cooling thread. The specifics start on post 423 or so. Threaded it 1/4-18NPT. Also threaded the crank case ventilation hole 3/4-14NPT. This will allow me to add a much more compact 3/4 NPT to -10 AN elbow for crank case ventilation. The stock vent pipe was interfering with my 9" K&N air filter. Problem solved . Purchased a new set of Z Car Customs - JDM adjustable T/C Rods. These will allow me to run adjustable front LCA bushings without any suspension bind. Checked the front Tokico springs for coil bind. Looks like ~1/4" between coils. Doesn't seem like enough to me. I may just go ahead and replace them with Eibachs. I loved them on my '76 S30. Ordered a new intake/exhaust gasket since the one I had delaminated when I removed the manifolds. Purchased a new Treadstone intercooler because I was unhappy with the fit of the AVO intercooler. It is a couple of inches too wide and i don't want to hack up the radiator cross brace. Picked up a cheap set of Miata seats. Gonna have them recovered. Things to do in the near future: Drill and tap the head above #3/4 exhaust ports per the Head Cooling thread. Drill out and tap the rear heater hose mounting boss for knock sensor mounting. Clean the pintle cap pieces out of the head - blow out with brake parts cleaner or compressed air Re-install head and verify cam timing (again) Test fit the new RC injectors and fuel rail. Adjust the fuel rail brackets if necessary. Maybe do a little bit more exhaust manifold porting Install Intake and exhaust manifolds Install fuel injectors and fuel rail Install oil pan and oil pick-up. Purchase and route turbo drain hoses Purchase and route turbo coolant and oil feed and drain lines Purchase and route head coolant bypass lines. Grind down the McKinney shifter mounts for more clearance to the transmission tunnel Slot the McKinney Z32 gearbox mounting holes. The McKinney motor mounts pulled the engine a little more forward. Run/bend the fuel lines Reinstall the engine/transmission Mount Fuel pump, FPR and filters Run intercooler piping Mount intercooler Grind down the 240SX damper bolt to prevent bottoming out in the crank Install damper and modified damper bolt and fat Volvo washer. Torque to Wire up the ECU Install differential Install drive shaft Install Z31 half shafts Remove front LCA's to shave off the tips closest to the Arizona Zcar brake disks. There is very little clearance even after grinding down on-car. Install Z Car Customs - JDM adjustable T/C Rods Install crank case vent hose and catch can Modify and install CS144 alternator Install headlight relays and H4 headlights Fix floor pan rust hole Install sound deading Reinstall interior Install Miata seats. Check fit the seating position first before I spend $ on covers. and so on...will it ever end?? probably not Pictures to follow. My son is hogging my desktop where my pictures are stored. I can access them remotely but can't resize them properly on my old school T42 (don't have the software). I'm rambling. Edited March 15, 2011 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted March 15, 2011 Author Share Posted March 15, 2011 Pictures as promised. The deck. Some copper coat and gasket coating remains. The head. You can see some of the graphite gasket still stuck to the the face. The metal head gasket still stuck to the head A close up of the combustion chamber. The silver valve is a custom over sized stainless valve. It looks like there may be some slight detonation damage in it's former service life A comparison of the two injectors. These are 3000GT injectors. They are the right size for 11mm fuel rails and stock S30/S130 injector o-rings. You can barely see the plastic junk near the valve seat. Miata Seat Treadstone Intercooler with opposite facing end tanks. Threaded block breather hole Threaded coolant bypass Z Car Customs - JDM adjustable T/C rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted April 18, 2011 Author Share Posted April 18, 2011 (edited) Got the engine and head almost ready to go. Need to tap the block for a knock sensor. Had to order a new tap. Meanwhile, I started working on the fuel lines. Created a new thread in the fuel delivery section: http://forums.hybrid...015#entry934015 Edited April 18, 2011 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted July 4, 2011 Author Share Posted July 4, 2011 Been working on the car this weekend. I've mocked up the Fuel Pump mount on my Modern Motorsports LCA cross member (the one that goes across the differential). I think it's going to work out good. Once I'm completely happy with the mount then I'll finish running the fuel line. I also want to get the differential back in to check for clearance before I put the final bends on fuel line. Got tired of laying on my back so I started re-assembling my engine. The intake and exhaust are installed and torqued. Started running coolant bypass lines. I had a thermostat spacer made to connect all the bypass lines. I've got three of the five run. #2 runs under the injectors. It's going to look pretty good but it is a b*tch to work on due to limited volume in the area. I hope I don't have any leaks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted August 29, 2011 Author Share Posted August 29, 2011 (edited) I've been making slow but steady progress on the car. All of the steps above (post 41) are complete up to #16 and then some. All of the suspension is back on the car. The hard fuel lines are complete (see link above). The differential is back on. Brake proportioning valve and line lock is installed. Still need to fab a bracket. Brakes lines are all hooked up and bled. I purchased one of Austin Hoke's Z32 shifter bracket. Its high quality and quite a bit more compact than the McKinney bracket. The 240z tunnel is tight and my fuel lines are huge. I need every bit of clearance I can get! I test fit the Z31 axles. The drivers side axle is too long...big surprise . Luckily JMortensen's is producing custom CV axles for this exact issue. At the same time though I've been considered just grinding off the end of the axle at the wheel end. I would remove just enough to prevent binding plus a little clearance for bushing compression. It appears to me that the axle is compressed so much that there will always be full spline engagement with the cage. This extra length of splined shaft is what I'm proposing to remove. Someone please stop me if this is a bad idea. My next goal is to get the engine back into the car this next weekend...labor day weekend. Its gonna take a lot of beer to bribe my buddy into helping me. Edited August 30, 2011 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Where did you tap the block for a knock sensor? I would like to eventually do the same as well as add a O2 bung on my down pipe for a LC-1. I am a draw-thru carb so I am a little different... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 Where did you tap the block for a knock sensor? I drilled out and tapped the rear most heater hose mounting hole on the block. You got to be careful not to drill thru into the water jacket behind it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted September 7, 2011 Author Share Posted September 7, 2011 Some significant progress was made over the Labor Day holiday weekend. The pictures pretty much speak for themselves. Yes, the intercooler piping clears the hood . I checked and there is at least .5 inches of clearance. This arrangement relieves congestion around the air filter, compressor and stock cooling fan...all of which I want to keep. The downside is that it's slightly more pipe volume than the typical around the front arrangement. The missing pieces are on order and should arrive before the weekend. The last major piece I need to order is the alternator. The plan is to adapt a CS144 GM alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted September 8, 2011 Share Posted September 8, 2011 Why not get rid of the fan/fan clutch on the motor ( less drag) and put a pair of electric fans to pull the air as needed. That way you can route the piping in front of the motor rather than over the top? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted September 9, 2011 Author Share Posted September 9, 2011 (edited) Because the compressor and charge pipe would make this area is very tight. I want to get a decent size filter going to the turbo inlet while keeping my air conditioner. No air con makes for unpleasant drives during the summer in south Texas. I'm not worried about drag from the fan it should be minimal, besides, you get drag on the alternator pulley while a high current electric fan is running. Of course, this could all change after I drive the car a bit. I reserve the right to change my mind later . Edited September 9, 2011 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplyedmind Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Ross its looking great can't wait to hear it running Gonna sound pretty mean I bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Ohhh tell me what it is like havin a/c on these cars....... That is one option that I want....... I would drive my car more if I had it. For me there are more important things I need. Like a fuel pump, cause as newton's law holds true.... Mine went out as I was about to put it on the road yesterday...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thehelix112 Posted September 9, 2011 Share Posted September 9, 2011 Newton I think was more interested in apples. You mean Murphy? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted November 3, 2011 Author Share Posted November 3, 2011 Notice anything different? I couldnt stand it with the piping over the engine. The pipe behind the fan is close but I secured it well to the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 That is looking much better. I like the new piping for the IC. I just noticed the engine mounts you are using? Also is that another pump or filter in the engine bay up on the firewall? Keep up the work.....you keep me motivated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted November 23, 2011 Author Share Posted November 23, 2011 Thanks, I like it better too. The engine mounts are from McKinney Motorsports. The red cylindrical cartridge on the firewall is an Aeromotive fuel filter. Speaking of fuel, I'm pretty much finished with the fuel system. All I'm lacking are some 1/4 inch fasteners for the pump mount. I'll try to escape the house this afternoon and pick up the fasteners. Pictures coming soon. Thanks for tuning in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zowner Posted November 23, 2011 Share Posted November 23, 2011 Amazing! can't wait to see more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted November 25, 2011 Author Share Posted November 25, 2011 Pictures of the fuel system as promised. Need to flip that filter around... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted December 19, 2011 Author Share Posted December 19, 2011 I started wiring up the FI this weekend.Here is my first wiring harness...ever. It is 100% crimped using barrel connectors. I spliced the injector connectors parallel to the main power wire. The black connector pigtail is crimped onto the continuous main power wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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