islanddozer Posted January 29, 2009 Share Posted January 29, 2009 I have had my 1980 280zx since 1991. I rebuilt the drivetrain in 1991 and have put over 200k on her. I had used fiberglass to fix spots along the floor/rocker seams and placed some sheet metal over rusted floor in pass. side. I have a turbo l28 ready to go and just wanted to strengthen the body to be able to handle the new torque. I have every bolt out of her and then ripped my handy work out to see the state of integrity. I didn't want to put everything in to find out the first time the clutch gets dropped and have my car twist I have been reading alot of threads on floor and rail replacement. Most relate to the older z's that have a flat floor pan. The 280zx has a really poor design for replacing. Most guys here find a donnor car and replace the needed area with matching contours. I have over 10 280zx's all with the same type of rust pattern and it doesn't make sense to replace something that might be a temporary fix. Plus I want to put a lot of torque to my rear wheels. Here are some pics of my issues. The passenger side is rusted right out but drivers side is completely intact. As noted with many other 280zx, the battery rots out the firewall and main rail. My question is = Do I continue trying to fix this with new floor/rocker/frame rail/inner fender/firewall Toast this rusted heap and look for a California car I think I might be biased and am trying to keep this car for the memmories Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 I'd say its repairable - do you have the skills (or are you willing to learn) and do you have the tools (or are you willing to buy)? Out of curiosity, did things get worse underneath the fiberglass, or would you say "no change"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islanddozer Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 any repairs I did inside held well and didn't cause any worsening. The rocker panel and rear 1/4's DID NOT work. Caused water to keep the rust wet. Looked ok outside but when I removed it, a whole lot of rust came with it. I had ground all the rust out and had spayed a rust product on all expposed when I did the work. I am always willing to learn, so if you have suggestions I will appreciate the help. I have all the tools (air everything, welder, grinders etc.). As far as skill is concerned, I was a Caterpillar specialist who rebuilt equipment for the Alberta tar sands. Have fabricated many hyd. parts but never have replaced a floor pan and rail that is hardly even there. But I am willing to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Well geez, it sounds like you're prepared. Cut out all the rust. Then, make templates of the patches out of cardboard - like a cereal box. Transfer it to sheet metal - I used 18ga on my car - and shape it. Get creative, you can clamp it between angle iron for a bend, or flex it over a pipe for a curve. Any body parts you can cut from a donor car - rear quarters come to mind - will save you that much time. Look through the photos at the link in my signature. You might have to go back a couple of pages to find the right sections. When I repaired my car, I jumped in with both feet and didn't know what I was getting into. I learned a lot, and when I re-do this one or my next project car I'll be that much more prepared. For instance - you'll see I did use fiberglass on my car. Not to cover rust, just in some weird places I didn't feel like shaping sheet metal to fit. So I guess I better keep an eye on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift00 Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 I'd say watch all of mulls video's and LEARN! Haha, good luck man. joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wedge Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 It seems to be worst then Mull`s car ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islanddozer Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 I really do appreciate your feedback. I went gun hoe on this project in Nov./08. Had spent hundreds of hrs rebuilding a l28et. Cleaning, porting, and polishing everything. Got to this point and had the wind knocked out of my sails when I saw the rotted frame rail because of the battery. I am gratefull of your link to your site mikeaprti Nice work ! Supprised to see the floor patch was welded from the inside. I can understand for the ease of the repair but what about trapping water inbetween ? I am only asking because I am trying to get strength and I am not afraid of working to get get it right. Hope this doesn't come accross as me calling down your work:). Not my intention My problem right now is where do I start. I have placed a piece of metal along the rocker panel (horizontal). The frame rail has been removed from start (below battery) to the rear. I drilled out spot welds to remove rail. The rail for the engine is in good shape the the top but paperthin on the bottom. I was going to wrap a piece arround the rusted metal and leave it in. Or should I remove it all together ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240z!!! Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 honestly my suggestion would be to get a 240z shell with little to no rust and drop your drivetrain in...honestly its not worth the effort unless you have the tools and the time...but if your dead set on fixing this car i have a 81 parts car with really nice floorpans and rocker panels (the only thing that is questionable is the frame rails that run under the floor pan, theyre not rusty but they got bent up some how but they are easy to replace with some tubing)...that parts car has no rust anywhere to be found...so if you do need some metal off of it id be more than happy to sell it to you..(you'd be paying for my time and not really the metal) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islanddozer Posted January 31, 2009 Author Share Posted January 31, 2009 Thanks for the suggestions guys. Always appreciate the feedback whether positive or negative. I do have access to a 1970 240 serial 0000129 But same deal with missing parts/rust issues and I do own alot of 80's. 10 last count and then at least 3 at my place. Have a buddy who owns a towing company who looks out for me. The only thing I am missing is a good canvas (body). I'm gonna work on this one, I think. It does look like a serious job but I have own her for 17 years and she has always been a blast to own. Love making mustang owners punch their dashboards:shock: Would really appreciate your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shift00 Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 you know what dude....you should just go ahead and start restoring it. You obviously have a desire and drive to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismo280zEd Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 From my experience battling rust. They best way I can describe it is it's like cancer. You need to get rid of it ALL or you risk it coming back. I've tried every rust converter/concealer under the sun and what works the best is sweat, blood, and metal. I'm at the same point your at, fixing rust on my 2+2 rails (78) and finding rust underneath previous repairs I've made. It's extremely frustrating, I know where your coming from. Think about how nice it's going to be when your done. Post pics along the way too! -Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZXT_bean Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 I agree with NismoEd. And I have yet to start the body work on my car. I got lucky and was able to find a 95% rust free car. The 5% comes from around the front windshield!! mostly just the lower cowl. Now if I could find an aftermarket peice, or a rust free original. That would definitely motivate me. I say keep it. You will have more pride in the end when its all done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbobluestreak Posted February 1, 2009 Share Posted February 1, 2009 I do have access to a 1970 240 serial 0000129 But same deal with missing parts/rust issuesQUOTE] How about letting one of us give Mr. 129 a good home. As for your repairs I remember reading that you have many s130s but they are rusty I have a spare shell I'm willing to cut some of the floor and front structure off if you need anything. tbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeatrpi Posted February 2, 2009 Share Posted February 2, 2009 Supprised to see the floor patch was welded from the inside. I can understand for the ease of the repair but what about trapping water inbetween ? I am only asking because I am trying to get strength and I am not afraid of working to get get it right. Hope this doesn't come accross as me calling down your work:). Not my intention This was my first time welding repairs like this. I tried to have only 1/8 inch overlap so that the weld would consume it all and there wouldn't be a "shelf" for water to get trapped in. For the one by the driver's seat, I couldn't avoid having a difference and so after I welded the outside as best I could, I used seam sealer to fill in the overhang. As for your repair, start small. You should make a replacement section of the floor boards / firewall. It would probably be several smaller pieces welded together to make a replacement section. Then I'd tackle the battery shelf / inner fender. That would be another several smaller patches to rebuild that metal. Lastly I'd tackle the front frame rail. It might be a part from a donor car, or you might have to fab. I can't tell from your pics exactly what I'd do. On my car, the lower section was rusty so I only patched that section. I hope that helps a little... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islanddozer Posted February 3, 2009 Author Share Posted February 3, 2009 Wow what a great responce ! Thanks to all who have thrown in their 2 cents. It's nice to know there is others out there that have expierenced (unfortuneatley ) the woes of a leaking battery in a Z. I have posted a couple of pics of the work I did over the weekend. I plan to scab that piece over what is existing. It's heavy guage galvanized. I plan to be ventalated when welding. I cut the parts that were protuding from the side of the rail and am supprised how well the new piece matches. Next I will sandblast inside and out of the existing rail and then scab this on. The frame rail goes from this new part back. Thanks to all that have suggested Null's work and Mikeatrpi's work. Good info ! And the offer to cut out what I need out of a good donor car Unbelieveable Thanks man but I don't want you to cut up your car. Thanks though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islanddozer Posted February 5, 2009 Author Share Posted February 5, 2009 I just got back from up-islamd checking on my cars. Time sure got the best of these. The 240 is gone but have a 741/2 260z, 78 280z, 80zx, and a 83zxt left.The 260 needs alot of work but is still almost all there. Missing 2 front fenders. Hood,hatch and doors are off but there. The 280z is intach but it needs some help. Dissappointed about the cars being moved out of the barn but hey I never paid to have them stored so it is what it is. Gonna check out this 80 280zx tommorrow. http://www.usedvictoria.com/classified-ad/8119073 Cheers ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dayz Posted February 5, 2009 Share Posted February 5, 2009 Hey that last pic of an S30 wasn't too bad. First thing, if you are in Victoria, you will eventually find what you want for very cheap, hey just can cross the border. Second thing, remember the plan you want for this car, we all dream of the car we want, but sometimes its better to sort-a repair the one you have and save your money for a much nicer one that you can afford! You will get in the while I am at it, and that can costs you a lot. Dayz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islanddozer Posted February 12, 2009 Author Share Posted February 12, 2009 been a while sorry. here is a couple of cars I checked out over the last few days. Not interested in them but thought I would post them here for others who might be interested 240z for $1 on the sunshine coast bc http://s674.photobucket.com/albums/vv103/BigDaddyP77/. 280zxt for 3200 homebuilt as you could tell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iBang Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 A Z for a dollar... Wish I could find deals like those near here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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