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Not yet. In the proccess of replacing the injector plugs. But I did have an issue with the TPS. I went to drive home from school and it was jerking really bad when you barely applied the throttle. (give it full throttle in neutral and it would jerk between 2000 and idle) Turns out it was a bit wet (been raining alot). Worked fine after that. Im hoping once it gets warm again (and dry) I can really dig in.

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TPS on turbo cars is a throttle position switch, not a sensor. It only tells the PCM when the throttle is in the closed (or close to it) position. The PCM then knows when to activate the the throttle control.

 

If it's rain/moisture sensitive, check out the ignition secondary system. Start it up at night and when it's cold look for arching along the plug wires. You can also test with a spray mister to increase the humidity.

 

Next I would look at all electrical connections and grounds, but we've covered that already.

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Have another bit of info that Id thought Id mention. I was putting it in second gear and then running it from 30-65ish and I noticed something.

 

Id give it full throttle and it would accelerate to about 3200 then stop. Id have to let off the throttle then reapply it to go any further. It also helped to even let off the throttle a bit. It would accelerate faster at like 3/4 throttle... any ideas on things this might be? Other than what weve already discussed.

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Im not sure about your problem pertaining to a turbo Z, but i had a similar problem with my S10 truck. It would wind up to 4000, then fall on its face. If i let off it would surge and act like it wanted to go. It turned out to be the fuel pump. It was providing the fuel pressure but not the volume needed when i would step on it. It may not be the problem but just thought i would put that out there.

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It sounds like a fuel pressure/flow issue to me. Either you have a bad pump or your tank might have enough crud in it that the pick up tube is partially clogged so that when you go higher in the rpm's and it needs more fuel the pump cant suck enough fuel up to keep the pressure high enough. Make sense?

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Yeah makes perfect sense. Im just waiting to till It stops raining and isnt so cold so I can drop the tank and pull the feed.

 

The fuel filter I put on isnt getting dirty so If something is clogged it must be the pickup. Do you know if there is a "sock" or something on the pickup?

 

Also Im getting an aluminum fuel rail for cheap so Ill be putting that on soon. At that point Ill make sure all the injectors are clean and finish the new injector plugs (1/2 done).

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  • 1 month later...

Solution! Leave alone for 2 months, then use jumper cables.

 

At some point Im going to just rip apart alot of the engine bay and clean things up. Ive got an N42 intake and a billet fuel rail that need a home. At that point Ill probably change out the distributor, coil and plug wires. But Im kind of busy with school so it might be awhile.. like summer.

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My dad just got me a junky turbo car for parts and it seems to be doing the same thing except that it doesn't happen at any certain RPM. It just seems to happen at random. It will either hesitate and then recover or the RPM's will drop and then it will surge back to life. The idle is pretty eratic as well. Its fairly smooth, but it will slowly drop from around 750 to 500 and just as it is about to die the RPM's will jump to 1000 and then slowly drop again. I'm going to try changing the TPS from my na and cleaning the tank tomorrow. I'll let you all know if it helps.

 

Can someone tell me if the connector on the harness for the TPS has 3 pins or 2? The TPS has 3 pins but my connector only has 2. My na has 3. That doesnt seem right.

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  • 4 weeks later...

hey man, not sure if you got your zx issues figured out quite yet, but just to share my experience....

 

my zx started dying on me on the freeway randomly just cutting out, but since it was still moving, would being firing up again if left in gear, but would die at stop lights, or if put in neutral, etc. this was killing me for a few weeks of driving i was so frustrated. sometimes it wouldnt start back up and I would have to go fiddle with some of the wires connected to the distributor to get it to start back up...

 

Did this in the middle of many stop lights, so funny, people gave me the look, like i was... that guy..

 

I replaced all my plug wires, coil wire, distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs etc, and ...

 

my issue turned out to be the inside of my coil, not the wire, but where the wire plugs in, was rusted. scraped it out with a screwdriver and now im back in buisness, didnt even need any of that stuff i got new...

 

not sure if you checked your coil, or replaced it, but just my .02

 

in other words, be sure to check ALL connections for corrosion etc, because even replacing the wires wont fix that.

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