Tokico shock/spring kit install

[Smokescreen]

Tokico kit install

 

I: Equipment needed

 

A: 14mm box end wrench ratchet with extension and deep well 14mm socket.

B: Tire removal equipment. (I love Pneumatics.)

C: 17mm socket/ ratchet w/ ext.

D: Dust boots for front struts. (These didn’t come with the kit from TokicoL.)$28.00 @ Schucks’

E: Break-free lubricant. (I don’t recommend WD40; there are many better solvents and cleaners out there.)

F: Clamps or fancy spring compressor devices.

G: Screw of various sizes, Flat head. (I used a small flathead mostly.)

 

II: Pre-work

 

A: I recommend locating the bolts that will need to be removed and soak all of the thoroughly before even attempting to remove the old hardware; maybe even the night before you plan on doing the swap.

B: I did the rear setup first because it is much simpler than replacing strut cartridges. Use wheel chocks and jack stands throughout this process as the car will be off the ground for a prolonged amount of time. (I know…safety is boring, but let’s keep that way, heh.)

 

III: Removal

 

A: first off you will see the simplicity of this project when you remove the old shocks/springs. The Tokico kit has complete rear units; all of the old gear except the upper spring mount will be replaced. I checked my upper spring mount bushings and they were surprisingly in good shape so I re-used them. You can get new ones if you car is in need of them.

B: I held onto everything to until I got the new stuff mounted the trashed the left-over’s.

C: On the front struts it appeared more complex but it still what I would call Intermediate mechanic work at best, probably more like Novice. Here are some shots of the method I used to remove and replace the front cartridges.

D: Remove the tension rods, the sway bar as well as the brake caliper before removing the strut tower bolts, my car has the knuckle keeping everything connected to the LCA. This wasn’t a problem I took it all apart while it was attached to the car.

E: There is one tricky part to all of this. The cartridge retainer cap or the Gland nut

Remember that when you are pulling the old gear you will have some compression on those old springs, if not done properly you can damage fender wells and body panels.

 

IV: Installation

 

A: The Rear setup is straightforward. Assemble the shock/spring with the bushing cap and bolt from the top to bottom. I say this because if you get the three bolts fastened up top (rear strut tower) then you can leave them loose and align the bottom of the shock to attach it to the LCA. Then tighten everything. Use factory torque specs for all bolts. I can look them up for anyone who doesn’t have a manual or can’t find them.

[Smokescreen]

This is my first project rundown so send in the questions, I'll answer all that I can. Also the guys AJUSA were awesome for the parts. Got the best price and the kit arrived within their specified time. Thanks again Ken. Oh yeah, here is the finished ride height.

[attworth]

Looks great!

 

Now replace those ball joints!

[hughdogz]

You didn't add oil to the strut cartridge tube to enhance the heat transfer?

 

{Edit: Good writeup Man!! Also, some roll center adjusters might help too. I like the TTT ones myself...}

[Challenger]

Looks good. I cant wait to get mine back on the ground..

 

I second ball joints. Those look terrible!

[Smokescreen]

Yeah, the Balljoints are on the list, but I am not sure what roll center adjusters are, Please fill me in. And, I did put a lightweight oil in my front strut tubes for heat transfer as per the instruction booklet that came with the kit,LOL. Thanks for the feedback guys.

[hughdogz]

Okay, I'm going out on a limb here, since I could get thwaked for not knowing exactly what I'm talking about, but here goes...

 

See the red anodized spacer between the ball joint and the bottom of the strut tube?

 

 

When you lowered your car by 1-1.5" you changed the roll center. The control arm is now angled closer to horizontal than stock, since the spring is shorter. I believe that where the angles of the control arms intersect is the roll center, which is now lower. What the RCA's do is bring the roll center back up, closer to the stock position.

 

They are sometimes referred to as "bump steer spacers" that will negate the tendency for the wheel to turn weird if you encounter a bump. I bet if you searched, John Coffey or jmortensen would go into intricate detail about it...

 

Hope this helps, and I'm not too far off base.

[Smokescreen]

Thanks a ton Hughdogz,I think I see what your getting at.I priced some Moog parts for the ball joints /tie rod ends, and I'll look up pricing for the TTT's. I love this site! By the way; Your ZX is truly amazing. Great job on a superb example of the potential of these cars.

Jason

[hagerty_justin]

okay, so I dide the front no problem on my 74 260z, but i could not seem to get the rear transverse link out.. and hints or anything? i notice your car does not have the same rear setup as mine.

[rossman]

okay, so I dide the front no problem on my 74 260z, but i could not seem to get the rear transverse link out.. and hints or anything? i notice your car does not have the same rear setup as mine.

 

Do a search on "spindle pin removal" and you will find more than you ever wanted to know about removing them. It ain't fun. I suggest making or buying a puller.

[nosebleedZ]

Smokescreen,

I have been trying to buy this very same kit for a year now with 3 "deals" falling through. What is AJUSA & how much did you pay? I will use this kit w/ some personal mods if I can ever buy one! Nice stance BTW, but I want mine a little more "raked". Thanks for any input you can give.