VinhZXT Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 Hi All, I am working on restoring the bottom of the car and I am going to use POR 15. I did a search and no one mentioned anything about using the marine clean and metal ready before applying the POR15. I've just checked the POR15 web site and they said to use the marine clean and the metal ready before applying the POR15 and this is to apply it to rusty surface. My question is do I need the cleaner and the metal prep solution to apply POR 15 to clean metal? Thanks for the info V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 I have done it with and without metal ready, never used marine clean. If the surface is free of grease it shouldn't be a problem. On new metal if I can I will try to use metal ready, it really cleans the crap off the metal and roughs is up a little. After you rinse it off make sure the surface is REALLY dry before painting. I usually hit it with a heat gun before painting. Any moisture will cause fish-eyes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDusel Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 I've used POR15 a number of times and have had mixed results. My best results have been on wire brushed rusty areas that have that familiar "rust" texture. This is where I get good adhesion and it seems hard and permanent. When used on smoother surfaces I have had a number of times when the POR has just peeled off. I tried prepping it with cleaner, wire brushing to make the surface less smooth and it is still about 50/50. And of course, everytime I call POR15 they blame it on poor surface prep. So textured rusty metal is where I trust it the most. On smooth rusty metal I am more likely to use Rustoleum Rusty metal prep and then Rustoleum paint. Just my 2 cents... This summer I am going to try out the "corroless" version of POR paint from Eastwood I think.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue72 Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 So far I have applied POR-15 to three different vehicles on floorpans, underbodies and frames. I've always sanded any smooth (non-rusty) metal with 80-150 grit and then vacuumed off the dust and wiped clean any remaining traces of dust, grease or oil. I've used wire wheels or aggressive sandpaper on the rustier metal that wasn't too thin. Never had one single adhesion problem. Sandblasted surfaces work really well too. Like RDusel said, if you don't give it something to adhere and grab on to it will peel off when cured. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PETEW Posted April 1, 2009 Share Posted April 1, 2009 When I did the underside of my car, it was pretty rust free. I took of all the undercoating with a needle scaler and then prepped with the metal ready and marine clean. I figured it would be better to be safe then sorry. You never know what has been on metal as old as our cars are. My underside has been painted for 6 years now and still looks really good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted April 1, 2009 Author Share Posted April 1, 2009 Thanks for all the replies guys. I will have to do more thinking on what I am going to do. This car will be a nice weather car only so it will never see any snow or rain. Well maybe some rain if I get caught in it. So I might or might not use POR 15. I just talked to my body guy and he said to use etch primer and then he can spray some rubberize coat on there for me and then paint it. It should give me that factory look. Does anyone have any picture of what the POR 15 look like that they can share? I am going to continue to do research on this. Thanks again V. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
langfordchuck Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 I also am experiencing a little difficulty ensuring good paint adhesion, esp. in areas such as the floorpan or inner fender wells, where the paint is more susceptible to mechanical impacts. To fix this I have been using a good quality etching prime. But recently a co-worker who re-finishes bathtubs told me that they use something closer to a glass etch, which apparently does a better job than metal etch for ensuring adhesion. They use an etching material for porcelin which requires special permits and training, but he said glass etch is the next best thing. Does anyone have experience in different etching materials, including glass etch? Disappointing to do a bunch of prep work and then lose paint over poor adhesion, especially in areas you might not see it come off until too late. but i am not sure of the cost or relative performance of different materials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 I would only use the POR 15 as instructed. Another words, don't try and mix chemicals. Use the marine clean, if you haven't tried it yet you will be impressed. It is the best degreaser I have ever used. I have read a lot of guys have had problems using a different prep method then as instructed. I have used por15 with good success. My only complaint is top coating with a chassis coat. I had a difficult time brushing on this finish and it looking even. Plus you only have a short window of time to topcoat after using por15 unless you use there primer later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tonycharger72 Posted April 3, 2009 Share Posted April 3, 2009 I have used POR-15 on one car and some suspension components and wasn't overly impressed with it! only benefit was when brushing it very few brush marks appear in it! POR-15 is about $90AUD locally for 4L tins (so not cheap) - I actually got better results from purchasing $15 Enamel paint from the hardware store!!! However, the auto paint shop I purchased the POR-15 from have a sample piece of steel they hit with POR-15, like one side left bare and the other hit with POR-15 and it was hard as a rock, shiny (after years), whilst the other side was all rusty! But they did the Marine Clean and then the Metal ready stages! When I have used the POR-15, I did neither and that is most likely why I got poor results using this product! If you are going to use it, do all the stages of prep before applying the POR-15! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VinhZXT Posted April 3, 2009 Author Share Posted April 3, 2009 Tony, That's the answer I was looking for and I plan on using POR15 on my suspension parts also. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 make sure you wash it off with water after marine clean and after metal ready (etching). it will flash rust though i sandblasted my car and it turned out good so far. i beat it with a hammer and it didnt come off ( schedule 40 front tube chassis) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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