JustinOlson Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Who has replaced their front ball joints with rod ends? What size rod end did you go with? I'd like to go to this route when building new front LCA's, but am worried about the range of motion of the ball joint. I was thinking that I might have to make a angled wedge adapter that bolts to the bottom of the strut so that I would place the ball joint in the middle of its range of articulation. The only person that I could find that had pictures of this was Monzter. It looks like he made a plate with a stud that bolts to the bottom of the strut. Also, it looks like he got around the range of motion issue by putting a bend in his arm. Anyone else done something similar to Monzters? Regards, Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Who has replaced their front ball joints with rod ends? What size rod end did you go with? I'd like to go to this route when building new front LCA's, but am worried about the range of motion of the ball joint. I was thinking that I might have to make a angled wedge adapter that bolts to the bottom of the strut so that I would place the ball joint in the middle of its range of articulation. Here's something similar using a strut turned into a double a-arm. I'd personally use a captured spherical bearing for this application but a good quality 3/4 rod end should suffice (that's what was used in the attached pics). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted April 29, 2009 Administrators Share Posted April 29, 2009 Cary, wouldn't the swaybar and its attachment method be a factor? A big burly bar, mounted to the control arm would be trying to pop the monoball from the socket, whereas a strut mounted bar wouldn't. Or is this load insignificant in the bigger picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 The Jap aftermarket adjustable LCA's for a S14 I have use a captured spherical bearing. The ARB on a S14 links similar to a S30 so I guess its considered not to be a problem as far as popping the bearing goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Cary, wouldn't the swaybar and its attachment method be a factor? A big burly bar, mounted to the control arm would be trying to pop the monoball from the socket, whereas a strut mounted bar wouldn't. Or is this load insignificant in the bigger picture? Hi Ron, A swaybar will definitely add a radial load to the bearing. But it's common to see lots of cars running bearings with shock/rocker loads going into them with no problems. The only ones I know about that change the orientaton of the bearing are cars that make tons of downforce (as in 3000 lbs+) and then you limit the max amount of steering lock you can run. I've been looking closely at either using a captured spherical or the low friction CT balljoints. Given the cost of the latter I'm leaning that way with simple Afco control arms. It almost doesn't pay to make this stuff anymore as cheap as you can buy it from them. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted April 30, 2009 Author Share Posted April 30, 2009 I've been looking closely at either using a captured spherical or the low friction CT balljoints. Given the cost of the latter I'm leaning that way with simple Afco control arms. It almost doesn't pay to make this stuff anymore as cheap as you can buy it from them. Cary That is great idea Cary! I can't believe the pricing on the afco suspension parts: http://www.afabcorp.com/AFCO_Dynatech_USbrake/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=A&Category_Code=ct_Suspension Justin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublexl240z Posted April 30, 2009 Share Posted April 30, 2009 Also try colemanracing.com great pricing and the best service in the industry!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 Another question I have regarding these new LCA's and ball joints. Do the LCA's need to be perpendicular to the centerline of the car? I have been thinking of moving the subframe forward, with the LCA and steering rack moving ahead. I would keep the wheel location in their stock position. Here's a rough diagram looking from below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 After messing with the model more, I'm finding a lot of change in toe angle with steering input with the above model. I need to keep the steering rack in line with the steering pickup points on the struts. Also, I'm finding there is less toe variation if you shorten the length of the steering arm on the strut. This also has the added benefit of quickening the steering ratio. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 Is toe in gain during steering input a bad thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexicoker Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 Toe change with steering angle is referred to as Ackerman. I would recommend doing some research on the subject, as there are several different theories as to what is best and why. Toe-out with steering angle is pro-ackerman, and toe-in is anti-ackerman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted May 2, 2009 Author Share Posted May 2, 2009 Thank you for the input. I've been reading more about ackerman here: http://www.smithees-racetech.com.au/ackerman.html Justin Toe change with steering angle is referred to as Ackerman. I would recommend doing some research on the subject, as there are several different theories as to what is best and why. Toe-out with steering angle is pro-ackerman, and toe-in is anti-ackerman. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublexl240z Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 I'm in the process of reading Allan Staniforths book Competition Car Suspension it has an entire chapter on ackerman and steering rack position vs. steering arm length/ position. Its about 20 bucks on amazon. Very good drawings, easy to understand. BUILD THE STRING CALCULATOR THAT IS DESCRIBED IN THE BACK OF THE BOOK!!! Your milage may vary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustinOlson Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 I found this kit that's interesting me: http://www.cachassisworks.com/iwwidb.pvx?;multi_item_submit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sweetride2go Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 I think we used something similar, if not the same. We also used Strange Engineering struts. I don't know if that kit would be heavy enough for street use? Someone else will have to chime on that. I wasn't around when the suspension was fabricated, but I do have some pictures. Here are a couple pics in case they might help. Sorry, those were the best images of the front suspension I could find. Hope that helps. =) Cheers Ryan~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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