mrcheeze36 Posted December 31, 2010 Share Posted December 31, 2010 (edited) Well, knowing what year it came out of helps you determine what ratio and LSD type it is: 04' and 05' STIs came with a CLSD, 3.9 ratio 06' STIs came with a CLSD, 3.54 ratio 07' STIs came with a Torsen LSD, 3.54 ratio 08' STIs came with a Torsen LSD, 3.9 ratio I'm not sure what the 09's and up come with. Edit: the info above is true for US models...not sure if they differed in other markets. Edited January 1, 2011 by mrcheeze36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossy74 Posted January 2, 2011 Share Posted January 2, 2011 Well, knowing what year it came out of helps you determine what ratio and LSD type it is: 04' and 05' STIs came with a CLSD, 3.9 ratio 06' STIs came with a CLSD, 3.54 ratio 07' STIs came with a Torsen LSD, 3.54 ratio 08' STIs came with a Torsen LSD, 3.9 ratio I'm not sure what the 09's and up come with. Edit: the info above is true for US models...not sure if they differed in other markets. Thanks, I think the new diff I'm looking at is either a 04-05 or 08, I've searched a lot of photos on google and ebay and most have lettering on top starting with a H, the latest I found was a photo of a 06 sti diff with HX then one on ebay was HW, 05 diff, I don't know if this is a very presice was of finding a diff but its all I got to go by as the diff is in japan. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossy74 Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 The diff I bought looks like its an 08, I think its a torsen lsd and the ratio says 39:10 so 3.9, I've attached a pic of the diff and with adaptors inserted. By the way John how far in do the adaptors go, they don't get locked into place do they? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 The diff I bought looks like its an 08, I think its a torsen lsd and the ratio says 39:10 so 3.9, I've attached a pic of the diff and with adaptors inserted. By the way John how far in do the adaptors go, they don't get locked into place do they? Yes. You need to tap them in with a hammer until the snap ring engages. About another 3/8" in the picture you posted above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer Z Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Yes. You need to tap them in with a hammer until the snap ring engages. About another 3/8" in the picture you posted above. I used a hard rubber mallet. You could use a piece of wood as a drift to soften the blow of a steel hammer. The first one I hit with my hand, it went in and my hand hurt. Press the bolts into the flange first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossy74 Posted January 15, 2011 Share Posted January 15, 2011 thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest angzt Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 (edited) Does anyone know the torque value / proper procedures for re-installing the Pinion Flange? I have a 2005 Impreza R180 3.9 That makes mine a CLSD, correct? Edited July 1, 2011 by angzt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer Z Posted July 1, 2011 Share Posted July 1, 2011 Does anyone know the torque value / proper procedures for re-installing the Pinion Flange? I have a 2005 Impreza R180 3.9 That makes mine a CLSD, correct? The only way to know for sure if it's a clutch type or a viscus type is to remove the inspection cover and look. I don't recall the torque specs. I'm thinking around 150 foot pounds. We torqued ours on the bench and had a hard time getting it fully torqued. The unit is close enough to the original Nissan part that you can use the torque specs from Datsun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted July 2, 2011 Share Posted July 2, 2011 The torque spec for the drive pinion nut on the Datsun R180 is 17 to 19 kg/m (123 to 145 lb/ft). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 Are you getting any closer to another run of axles? About ready to throw my hat in the ring! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 Just finished the third run: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98109-subaru-wrx-sti-r180-side-axles-part-three/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbonat240 Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Anybody has weighted their STI R180 or stock open R180?? Can't seem to find a figure for that. I have read about 75 pounds for the R200 (not sure if there's a real difference between open and LSD for both?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer Z Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 (edited) Anybody has weighted their STI R180 or stock open R180?? Can't seem to find a figure for that. I have read about 75 pounds for the R200 (not sure if there's a real difference between open and LSD for both?) 59.25 pounds R180 differential; 3.364 gears; dry (73 240z) from: http://forums.hybrid...ight-reduction/ Not sure why we didn't weigh the WRX LSD. I can say it didn't feel like weighed any different. Edited July 16, 2011 by Racer Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbonat240 Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Thanks for the link. I was just curious to know how much weight I would *not add* by not going for a R200 with Quaife/Z31turbo CV axles conversion. I guess not that much... but this STI diff conversion would be a lot cheaper so it's very appealing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest angzt Posted November 26, 2011 Share Posted November 26, 2011 Does anyone know the Crush Collar's part numbers for a 2005 STi R180 3.90 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Repulse Posted March 5, 2013 Share Posted March 5, 2013 (edited) Deleted as it is not relevant. With a different diff, this more than likely wouldnt fit. Edited March 5, 2013 by Repulse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
casper9182 Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Anyone have a used set they wanna sell or bought a set they never got around using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ol doc gully Posted July 9, 2013 Share Posted July 9, 2013 i acquired a brand new precision gear LSD for an R180. the catch is its unknown exactly which R180 it was originally made for; uses 115mm ID ring gear, 11mm ring gear bolts (86+), and has 27 spline output shafts, so indication its either for the STi or NA 4 cyl 200SX. beyond the 28mm diameter, is there any measurement i can make (mostly as far as length) to verify that these STi stub axles would fit correctly? are they the same size left/right? im hoping to test fit some sti axles locally before purchasing but still cant tell true fitment until its all buttoned up (currently searching out a 4.11 200SX diff) thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick240zed Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 We finally installed our STi LSD into our 240z. Was so easy it practically jumped in while stood there and watched. I had said once that I would document the process and post it here Well, I forgot to take pictures, but that would be redundant anyhow 'cause others have done it already. I will confirm the process and the ease of this "conversion" though. I bought a used 06 Subaru STi (not WRX) Limited Slip Differential (LSD). This is a clutch type with four pinions and 27 spline output shafts. I bought the conversion output shafts from John Coffee. I bought the all the seals and gaskets needed to reseal the LSD. I bought new bolts that fit the outboard side of the axle-shaft. These are the hex-head bolts, not the D-head head. I removed the stock R180 from the 240z and then cleaned the outside of everything. I removed the input flange from both R180 diffys. I put the 240z flange on the STi LSD along with a new seal. I used a hydraulic press to press the new hex-head bolts in. They fit perfect and the hex has enough surface area to keep the bolt from turning while you tighten the nut. I replaced the two side seals on the LSD and popped the new output shafts in. I put the inspection cover and the new gasket on. There are a few other O-Rings that I also replaced. I forgot to get a new plastic breather and had to use the old cracked breather. (Note to self: go to Dad's and turn a new breather from aluminum stock.) I installed the Subaru LSD into the 240Z, tightened all the bolts and filled it with the recommended fluid. I took the car for a test drive and ate lunch. It was that quick and that easy. Most of the "I" was actually "we", my brother and I. Before we installed the LSD, we bench tested it to see where the clutches broke at. Real close to fifty pounds if we tested it correctly. The test drive included town driving, twisty canyons and the highway. We did a full lock turn (complete circle) in a parking lot at very low speed. No hopping or chirping. In the canyons the rear-end broke loose under hard acceleration. The before drive in this same canyon would only spin the inside tire and the rear-end stayed on track. The one thing that is somewhat of a concern to us now is that there is a noticeable amount of read-end whine. I know that the 240Z has a reputation for having a noisy rear-end, but ours was never noisy before this. I don't have any reason to suspect that our Subaru LSD is worn out, it looks and feels tight. Has anybody else experienced this gear whine? Our cost in this is somewhat minimal actually. $200 STi LSD $500 Output shafts $ 40 Seals $ 40 Bolts, Oil and other incidentals ---------- Less than $800 for a stock looking LSD. Our thanks to John and everybody else that helped to make this a painless upgrade. There was a thread about whine from the R180 STi differential. I just want to say I did the swap using John's adapters and there has been no noise coming from our STi 3.90 R180. We've been doing a number of 'shake-down' runs on the car without any issues. Very solid feel with the LSD. 240z3.JPG There was a thread about whine from the R180 STi differential. I just want to say I did the swap using John's adapters and there has been no noise coming from our STi 3.90 R180. We've been doing a number of 'shake-down' runs on the car without any issues. Very solid feel with the LSD. 240z3.JPG This thread provides great info as I am about to embark on a drivetrain upgrade for my 240z (which I've owned for 34 years, so far), and I hope will be the final replacements for the next 20 - 25 years. The Subi option is attractive as it is 10 year old parts vs 21 year old parts (and likely with much more mileage) for a 83 280zx r200. The discussion on whine concerns me a bit. Is there a noise issue with the Subi r180 diff? Thanks, Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick240zed Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 (edited) I'm afraid that you guys are making this too complicated. Here is how the swap goes. Your Subaru rearend (call it whatever you like) is relatively new. The seals are probably fine. The rear cover is the same. Leave the thing alone. Pull the output flanges with a puller or two leavers (screwdrivers work). Put John's new output flanges in - light tap with hammer and block of wood. Take your Z input flange off with an impact wrench, a 27mm socket and a gear puller. Do the same with the Subaru flange. Put the Z input flange on the Subaru input shaft and torque it as best you can (spec is 125 ftlbs). Put oil and LSD lube in the Subaru differential (1 quart). Put the differential in the car and hook up the half-shafts and drive shaft with the original hardware. Go racing. The rear cover studs are longer on the Subaru diff. Swap them if you can - mine were in too tight. I left them. It made for a bit more wrestling, but I still got it in. This is a 1-day job tops - a couple of hours if you are good and have the tools I listed. Sounds simple, but... 1. in a 240z, when you also change to a 1983 280zx 5-speed; do you use the 240z driveshaft or the 280zx driveshaft? 2. oil and LSD lube; total is 1 quart, how much of each, and any particular oil 3. presumably when changing output flanges and input flanges one needs new seals; would these just be the ones I could get from a Subaru dealer Thanks (and apologies for the simple, and possibly repeated, questions) Edited April 21, 2014 by rick240zed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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