cygnusx1 Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Pulled into my parents driveway with the Z and when I got out I noticed some oil drops on the driveway. I looked under the Z and the front edge of the bell housing was dripping, and there was a run of fluid coming from the slave cylinder boot. The problem just started within 3 miles, so I caught it early. I thought it was the slave cylinder at first but no such luck, it's motor oil. Darn!!! I just practically finished the trans swap and the Fidanza flywheel. Just to confirm...the only way engine oil could be in the bell housing would be from the rear main seal right? Options??? Since I am currently laid off, I have time. 1) Pull the 150K mile motor, hone it, and ring it and fix the seals. 2) Just pull the trans and oil pan and replace the seal and move on with it. The motor does suck some oil past the rings although compressions are good. I just put on a brandy-newly rebuilt head this Winter. :hs: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Personally, if I had the time and space I'd pull all of it [motor and tranny] and rebuild the bottom end. I'd like to do that before the turbo swap, but I wouldn't want my S30 down that long. [And my F54 only has 83,000 on it] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan5138 Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Hehe general rule of thumb is, if you rebuild just the top end, then your bottom end will start going and vice versa. If it has been well maintained over those 150k miles, I would pull the engine + trans, and do a freshen up on both. New Bearings, rings, seals + gaskets, timing kit and water pump wouldn't hurt. Just Mic everything out and make sure it's within spec, I doubt you need to replace pistons just yet. If you are feeling really energetic you could replace trans seals. Split the trans and inspect bearings etc. http://www.rockauto.com has great prices on name brand parts... fel-pro gaskets are OK but their oil seals kinda suck, mainly fitiment issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share Posted June 4, 2009 The trans is solid, the top end is solid. Even the bottom end is (was) solid. I guess I'll start the engine pull tomorrow and order some rings, timing kit, and maybe bearing shells. I will also send the flywheel and clutch assembly out to get balance checked. Maybe the new clutch flywheel were out of balance and stressed out the rear seal. I have an extra crank that EvilC gave me. My crank has always had a bunked up keyway for the timing pully. I'll mic up the new crank and order bearing shells if it's within spec. Thanks for the encouraging advice! When you own a Z, bad things happen for a reason! UPGRADES! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Could you have a Leak from the rear most bearing cap. I think thats the one with the two rubber seals you tap in between the block and the cap?. Not trying to thread jack yah. I have had an oil leak for a while. Replaced the rear main seal with an after market one and then one from nissan. I replaced the oil pan gasket and then did it again sealing it with rtv. I am beginning to think that rear cap seal is bad. Any thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted June 4, 2009 Administrators Share Posted June 4, 2009 Dave, Rear main seal or valve cover are the main culprits here. Double check at the back of the head to make sure the valve cover gasket isn't leaking down the back of the block. As mentioned already, the rear main cap and its rubber strips, though the only time I have ever seen those leak is due installation issue and that will will leak from day one. Haven't seen those fail after the fact. Also, the oil galley has plug in the back of the block behind the flywheel. I doubt it is that either, but there is always a first time. Oh, and don't forget to check the oil pan gasket, not just at the rear of the block but around the entire perimeter as the oil can and will makes it way to the lowest part of the pan rail which just so happens to be the back passenger side of the pan. Oh, and don't rule out gear oil. Could also be the front trans seal leaking, maybe over filled? Hope that helps. Take care, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeBZ Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Rear main seal or rear freeze plug in the back of the block. Unlikely the freeze plug since they are usually hard to remove. But like BRAAP said there's a first time for everything. You could have also thrown a rod through the back of the block, but something tells me you'd have noticed a loss in performance.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 It's definitely motor oil...smells like it, looks like it, tastes like it. Engine runs strong. Oil pressure is still up. It just runs out the weep hole in the bell housing when the car is running. The engine pull begins tomorrow. The boy is in daycare for the day so I will be in Z-care for the day. Assuming the bores are all good and round, and the crank and rods are clean and in spec....99.9% sure they are... I can do a modest revamp of the lower half for around $500 in parts from RockAuto, including all the bearings, gaskets, seals, rings, timing set, and oil pump. OR I can do #15 on this webpage "while I'm at it".... http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/pek-nissan.html and spend about $1200. Complete Gasket Set Copper Performance Head Gasket (I'll stick with the Nissan factory gasket and my ARP studs.) ROSS/Wiseco Forged Performance Pistons (86mm bore) and (8.5-1 comp ratio) Performance Rings Performance Wrist Pins TOGA HP Main Bearings (std, 10)* TOGA HP Rod Bearings (std, 10)* Then I will add ARP main and rod bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted June 5, 2009 Administrators Share Posted June 5, 2009 Rear main seal or rear freeze plug in the back of the block. Unlikely the freeze plug since they are usually hard to remove. But like BRAAP said there's a first time for everything. You could have also thrown a rod through the back of the block, but something tells me you'd have noticed a loss in performance.......... The plug for the oil galley that could be the culprit is actually called the “Galley Plugâ€, not a freeze plug. Typically, the core plugs that contain the engines coolant are mistakenly referred to as “Freeze Plugsâ€! By mistakenly, I mean that there is no such thing as "freeze plug", smart blondes, or the Easter Bunny! Those plugs are actually CORE plugs, also referred to as Soft plugs, Expansion plugs or Welch plugs. This thread will help shed light on this and depending on ones sense of humor, can be rather entertaining as well. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121062 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted June 5, 2009 Administrators Share Posted June 5, 2009 It's definitely motor oil...smells like it, looks like it, tastes like it. Engine runs strong. Oil pressure is still up. It just runs out the weep hole in the bell housing when the car is running. The engine pull begins tomorrow. The boy is in daycare for the day so I will be in Z-care for the day. Assuming the bores are all good and round, and the crank and rods are clean and in spec....99.9% sure they are... I can do a modest revamp of the lower half for around $500 in parts from RockAuto, including all the bearings, gaskets, seals, rings, timing set, and oil pump. OR I can do #15 on this webpage "while I'm at it".... http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/pek-nissan.html and spend about $1200. Complete Gasket Set Copper Performance Head Gasket (I'll stick with the Nissan factory gasket and my ARP studs.) ROSS/Wiseco Forged Performance Pistons (86mm bore) and (8.5-1 comp ratio) Performance Rings Performance Wrist Pins TOGA HP Main Bearings (std, 10)* TOGA HP Rod Bearings (std, 10)* Then I will add ARP main and rod bolts. Dave, Were you planning to rebuild or just looking for that perfect excuse to rebuild? If so, this makes for a great excuse to dig right in! If not, I'm sure the oil leak can be dealt with with the engine still in the car, no need to tear it down other than remove the trans, clutch and flywheel. Tranny comes out quick and easy, depending on exhaust system of course.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srbigbutt Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 Good news is you have time to work on your Z, bad news is you are out of work. But if you have the money and don't mind having the Z out of commission then pull the motor. If I lived in a cold weather area, I would just fix whats wrong now and then pull the motor in the winter. Only so much time for you to enjoy it! Plus that would stop my wife from killing me for spending $1200 when I'm not working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 LOL on the last two posts....you guys ARE NOT helping! LOL. You both fully understand the dilemma. ROFL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
srbigbutt Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 Haha!! What am I talking about. Only an idiot would not take this opportunity to rebuild!! If you wait till later you may have a new job and not have the time! Seize the moment now!!! Is that better? lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nismopowered Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 I eould make sure the leak is not higher. Check the valve cover gasket. I have seen the entire bottom of a car covered with oil from the valve cover leaking. And you wont always see it leaking all over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 No, you could eat off of my engine. It's clean. The oil is definitely from inside the bell housing and it's engine oil. Either the rear seal(s) or the Braap Plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 No, you could eat off of my engine. It's clean. The oil is definitely from inside the bell housing and it's engine oil. Either the rear seal(s) or the Braap Plug. Quick fix, leave it in until you are ready to go all out and miss some drving time. You know me all about speed but not about missing driving season. Wait until Fall to rear it apart. Remove the tranny and drop the exhaust which is much quicker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 Lazy me got into the garage at 1pm this afternoon. Working slowly, it's 3:30 and I got to the bottom of it. I decided to do the quick fix and NOT miss driving season. It is pretty short here in the Northeast. I heated up the fidanza flywheel to get it easily off the back of the crank. As I pulled off the flywheel, the rear main seal fell onto the floor! It worked its way out of the rear of the block. No wonder it was leaking! I already have the new seal and I am going to use some sealant on the outside of this seal. Easy fix, and should be back on the road, right as the rain ends for a nice weekend! Luckily, I caught it before any oil got onto the clutch. The true plus side of keeping a neat and tidy engine bay is being able to spot problems early. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 Sounds good, glad it was an easy and quick fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 BTW: Clive, It was MUCH MUCH easier to pull the trans with the downpipe out of the way! We should have removed the DP last time we put in the trans. LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EvilC Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 BTW: Clive, It was MUCH MUCH easier to pull the trans with the downpipe out of the way! We should have removed the DP last time we put in the trans. LOL. Yeah we only had to rest the tranny on my head last time to get it in...what a pain in the balls that was. Taking her out tomorrow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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