dan5138

Well to start off with did try to do some searching on here to find some information on 2+2's... to no avail. I do know several member have 2+2s and need a few things verified. Mainly where is the extra length in the chassis put? I remember reading that 2+2 doors are longer than coupe doors, which would tell me they added the room right behind the drivers seat. I would be interested in getting a 2+2 if I could put a coupe hatch on it and make the roof line resemble a coupe. I would imagine I would need most if not all of a coupe hatch and roof to have enough sheet metal to work with. I'm also thinking I may have to modify / chop the A pillars. Any thoughts or input on this? Any one able to verify where the extra length is added in to the chassis?

The fuel level works goofy in these cars anyway because of how they are shaped, stock everything, my first half would go pretty quick, and the bottom half seemed to last significantly longer. The simplest way to use a different style of sending unit would be compensate with the guage face. You would simply have to make another face for the guage. Fill the tank to capacity, and drain off a quarter of its volume at a time marking each quarter on your new guage face. Figure out how many degrees there are between each mark to use as reference when designing and printing the new guage face. Might look a little goofy, but hey it will be accurate.

Time to do a taste test! If it drips on to a clean pan under the car, dab a bit on your finger and give it a taste. Coolant is extremely bitter if its the newer stuff, the older stuff and in states that don't require bittering additives its going to be sweet. Engine oil is really waxy tasting. Power steering fluid is pretty nasty tasting, not as waxy as engine oil. I have my doubts that oil contamination would ruin an alternator really fast like that. Ive seen a few that were saturated in stuff and still worked! I would check your battery out, how old is it? lots of corrosion and nastieness on top? If possible a battery load tester is the best way. Make sure none of your battery leads or alternator are chaffed or can ground out on anything.

I kind of understand what you're trying to get out of this... You want an electronically controlled and timed fuel system for an older mechanical diesel. Ford heui injectors probably wont work to well for this as they are pretty much worthless without the high pressure oil system. The solenoid on those injectors actually control the flow of high pressure oil. I would look in to engines with pumps similar to the Cummins CAPS rotary pumps. They are electronically timed and governed injection pumps that utilize mechanical nozzles.

Simple, if you know someone who is half way decenent with a mig welder. Just have to weld a nut onto whats left of the stud/bolt, and they usually come right out. You might want want to drill a small hole at the end of that crack and pin it shut to stop it, don't try to weld it though.

TB being shut should be enough. I wonder if there is enough pressure there to use soapy water? My hearing isn't the best hehe.

Newer GM and Ford cars use them, just use a parts website to search for baro sensors on different makes and see what comes up.

Sanding down to metal is a lot of work and takes way too much time. Its a lot easier and probably cheaper in the long run to just use aircraft paint stripper. Most hardware stores carry it, you just goop it on come back in 15- 30 mins and scrapes right off with a nice wide putty knife. If you have access to a pressure washer, that would make things even easier. Just make sure you use really good gloves and use horsehair paint brush or metal scraper to spread it around. You will also need to wash / sand the steel to make sure you get rid of any residue.

I threw up a little. It makes both cars look bad, is it a Chevy, Datsun or Ferrari I can't decide.

Personally I would not use some hokey pokey wiring instructions I found on a forum. My suggestion is to use a factory wiring diagram and duplicate everything the engine needs as close to factory as possible using parts that are available to you. Also do you have the diagnostic connector and some sort of mil light connected to your harness? You don't even need a scan tool to get OBD1 codes so having a mil and diagnostic connector can help a lot in finding problems with wiring. Also since it has been rebuilt ensure your distributor is installed correctly and jumping the pins in the diagnostic connector to reset timing may help.

Don't put any fuel injector cleaner in it, modern injectors are supposed to be self cleaning, and at 75k they're relatively new. The first thing that needs to be done is hook up a real scan tool to it and see where long term fuel trim is at while cruising on the highway. This will usually point you in the right direction as far as it being a mechanical/electrical issue. O2 sensors can become lazy ( doesn't switch very quickly) or biased( the always read rich or lean). Best way to test an O2 is check it's pattern with a lab scope. As far as load at idle anywhere between 0% - 20% is normal this varies by manufacturer, lopp status, and idle speed.

Looks like a 77/78 280Z speedo. I know for sure the 78 speedo looks like that.

i wouldnt trust a parts store to test a battery. best way is to load test it with a VAT. How old is the battery, and if it is servicable check the water levels. Cold weather is really hard on batteries. I have already replaced 3 or so at work once the weather turned cold. If you have a DMM available to you you can also see how much current your car draws with the key off.

I have an N42 non EGR manifold. not a cut and weld job, it never had EGR.

There is actually a lot of open source support for carputers and mobile entertainment. One of the best OSes i have seen so far is linux ice. I supports movies/dvds, audio, gps and touchscreens. it has a very simple interface as well. http://wiki.openice.org/index.php?title=2009-Dec-14-LinuxICE_2.0_Final a link to linux ice. As far as hardware goes, there are quite a few intel atom boards out there with car friendly power supplies. Beagle board is also worth a look http://beagleboard.org/

find a piece of round stock steel that fits in the bushing pretty snug. fill the bushing and cavity all the way up with grease and peck the round stock in with a hammer. it should push the bushing right out.

Where are you checking output voltage at? And what year of Z are you working on?

Well if you don't mind something a little loud, you can put together an exhaust for about $50. I don't have to smog my car so I cut the cat flange off, put on a 2.25" cherrybomb and a turn down. The turn down ends up about where the crossmember for the rear LCAs is. If I fixed my exhaust leak it would probably sound a lot better, hehe. I would also buy a flow through muffler a bit nicer than a Kragens one, if you try this out.

You could get really creative here. You would be amazed what you can do without a hoist. You could completely dissasamble the good L16, have a friend help you lift the empty block up into the car and mount it in. Then just reassemble the engine in the car, and freshen up all the gaskets at the same time.Or you could buy a hoist at harbor freight for about $200. Though I think a gasket kit comes close to that... : /

I am surpised no one has completely cut the ports out of a head and welded in new ports made of aluminum tubing. You could expand well into cooling passages this way, don't know how much this would effect cooling. Also you could cut the square exhaust ports out and replace them with round ones, if a round port would flow any better than a square on that is. Just an idea, don't know how feasible it would be.

I know this has been mentioned several times on this site (probably several times in this thread), but the Hyundai Elantra door seals work great. The 90-92 look exactly like stock and solve the door slam issue from what I have gathered here. I am currently using door seals from a '95 Elantra and they solved my door issues. The seals on the 93 to 00 four door Elantras all looked the same. The soft part is a little bit bigger than the after market Z ones, but it is much more plush. You just cut out the excess at the only sharp corner in the door jamb (top rear). If I were to do it again I would cut the seal with a razor knife at 45* angle. Glue it together with super glue or perhaps black RTV and it would look great! For about $12 a pair at my local pick a part it's a good deal.

Hi folks I'm looking for a turbo capable of 10 to 15 LBS of boost. Doesn't need to be anything fancy, I'm on a budget and don't trust the garbage / mystery meat turbos on Ebay.

I have never changed a newer fuel pump. But, it looks like you have the type that goes down into the tank and is submerged. If that is the case, I suppose the fuel pickup could be on the bottom side of the pump (look for a screen). Which would mean the side you have hooked up now would be the pressure, or outlet side. Just make sure you put the supply and return lines on the correct part of the tank.

They are valve stem seal retainers. I stripped down a P90 about a month ago, and had a hell of a time getting those off. The top part of the seal has the spring like you mentioned. These rings go on the bottom of the seal and keep it crimped to the head.

Ive been having problems with FPRs lately. Might check your fuel pressure and see where it's at. ~ 30 PSI at idle is correct.