stony Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Oops didn't mean to make the letters that big. i had two of those filters after i split my -10 to 2 -8s and they caused issues. You are using 1 and it will cause all kinds of fuel pressure issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted July 20, 2009 Author Share Posted July 20, 2009 They are the same type of filter - and the one from earls is actually better... The earl one flows 4-5 GPM and the summit one flows 150 GPH. 150 GPH is only 2.5 GPM. And to think about it - if you are flowing 4 GPM - you would drain the fuel cell in less than 4 minutes at WOT and max engine output. Seems like a lot of fuel? Am I wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 OOps you may be right on that one. Best way to see is to open it up and look at the filter element. there is a huge difference in a carb type filter and a FI filter. Click on the links you gave in your thread earlier. then click on the "check application" link... its says they are for carburetor fuel systems. in the product search thing search "fuel injection filter" click on the first one that comes up and do the same thing. you will see it says a HP rating and that they are good in carb or FI applications. The filter element is what is the difference. the carb filters have a element that almost looks like a solid element cant even see thru it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 (edited) I noticed that you plumbed your heater bypass back to the pump intake. I don't think this is a good idea. Basically you will be recirculating water from the block back to the pump without removing any heat. This situation could cause cooling problems. If you're not going to connect your heater then just block off both fittings. Edited July 20, 2009 by rossman spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted July 20, 2009 Author Share Posted July 20, 2009 Stony - I sent an email to Holley tech support to find out... I'll post back when I get a reply on whether these filters are meant for FI. Rossman - See this thread I started in 2006 about this very issue: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107364&highlight=cooling+head&page=2 While I enjoyed the discussion on the thread - the posts from people running the extra water connection on their race cars made me decide to loop it. Maybe I'll plumb in some clear tubing in the line and plumb in a valve just to clear up which direction the water flows in this line when the car is running. If somebody wants to re-open this discussion - please do so on another thread... I'm trying to keep this one about the progress of my build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 No problem. I just don't agree. Cheers, Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted July 25, 2009 Author Share Posted July 25, 2009 Got the reply from Holley tech support. The filters are rated for fuel injection pressures (75+psi) and they flow adequate amounts of fuel... The tech support guy said the filters were designed for my type of application. I'm going to stick with them and monitor for fuel trouble. I'll never discount the experience of an experienced member like stony. Based on rossman's feedback - I started a poll about looping the coolant on the L6 sub-forum and it is clear that this is not a widely understood cooling practice. Rossman, Tony D, and some of the other seasoned L6 guys have convinced me to take out the loop. Good news for me - I hate extra crap in the engine compartment and it will give me a place to bolt the coils for a future EDIS upgrade to megasquirt (trying to get rid of some of the stuff on the left side of the engine compartment... MSD 6a box, coil, dizzy, wires, etc). I was up until 1:30 AM putting the 2nd coat of primer on the walls and ceilings of the baby room and the bathroom. Turned out good, but because of problems with the walls in the bathroom it is going to take longer than I had hoped. I'm doing the finish spacking on the ceilings and walls today and painting the ceilings tomorrow morning. It should be pretty much smooth sailing from there, but I obviously am not working on the Z this weekend. I did get more parts - the new tighter radius 4" bend is just what the doctor ordered for my downpipe. More to come when I finish up the house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted August 13, 2009 Author Share Posted August 13, 2009 After 4 solid weeks of work on the house (at least 2-3 hours per day - every day) - the baby room is DONE and the bathroom will be done this Friday (minus the custom countertop that should be here next week). Pretty much everything I touched turned out to be a massive pain in the ass due to the incompetence of former home owners and their lack of remodeling skills. I FINALLY get to work on the Z this weekend. Stay tuned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboHLS30 Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 Hey what rear disc setup did you use??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 240sx brakes with modern motorsports brackets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted August 17, 2009 Author Share Posted August 17, 2009 Saturday: Plumbed all of the fuel lines up to the engine - including the fuel pressure regulator. Sunday: - Tore apart all of the fuel line routings to paint and undercoat all of the places I did welding on and did all of the painting. - I plugged up the looped coolant line with some 1/2" brass pipe plugs. - I made a serious amount of progress on my downpipe. The majority of the time was spent fabbing up a 4" dia to 3" dia taper that is 4" long. They don't sell one that short (that I could find) - so I made one... tedious work. For the downpipe - there are so many bends that come together all in one place to make a nice smooth path for the air to get out that I keep second guessing it before I tack anything. I got frusterated so I'll get back at it this week with a more clear head. Plans this week: - Final Assembly on the Fuel up to the rail - Finish the downpipe - Figure out the wastegate placement and weld it all up including plumbing it into the downpipe - With the exhaust all done - take the manifold, turbine housing, and exhaust to get ceramic coated... I might wait until all of the intercooler plumbing is done first so I don't have to take multiple trips to the coaters. - If I have time - work on intercooler plumbing and putting sound deadening inside the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted August 18, 2009 Author Share Posted August 18, 2009 Tonight I tacked and welded the downpipe - here are the pics... So now I'm trying to figure out where to put my wastegate... I've got three options: #1) In the typical location - near the firewall: #2) Near the frame on the left side: #3) Under the turbine housing: I'm kind of leaning toward #2 or #3 right now... #2 has better servicability, but #3 has a shorter run from the manifold to the wastegate and the plumbing into the downpipe will likely be a little cleaner. I'd love to hear some opinions on where you think I should put it. Thanks and I appreciate the feedback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted August 19, 2009 Author Share Posted August 19, 2009 I spent tonight messing around with different wastegate placements using some 1.5" PVC pipe (matches the shape of the metal schedule 40 bends). I've decided to hang the wastegate upside down (cap facing down). The run from the manifold is short, the serviceability is good (I can change the spring easily from under the car), the plumbing into the downpipe will be very easy and clean, and the cap of the wastegate will get some fresh air from under the car to keep it cool. I'll be cutting the pieces out of metal tomorrow and welding it up... and hopefully get it piped into the downpipe. Anybody ever seen somebody mount a wastegate upside down? I can't think of a problem with doing it that way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 Anybody ever seen somebody mount a wastegate upside down? I can't think of a problem with doing it that way? Yes, I've seen several oriented with the cap down. It shouldn't be a problem. In fact I plan to mount mine like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark Posted August 19, 2009 Share Posted August 19, 2009 Front swaybar bolted to the car... I use white lithium grease on the joints. Anybody reccomend anything better? I use teflon tape wrapped around the bar at the bushings. It seems to work well. I found out this worked when I actually read the directions that came with my suspension techniques bushings. I'm enjoying the updates on your project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turboHLS30 Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 My wastegate i mounted upside down to the point where its parallel with the downpipe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted August 22, 2009 Author Share Posted August 22, 2009 Where my wastegate ended up: I'm thinking I really should put in a flex joint between the wastegate and the downpipe so thermal expansion/contraction doesn't destroy something... The shortest I can find is 4" long. Anybody think I'll be ok without one? This weekend lots of cleanup... Order some parts, plumb up the fuel, start on the intercooler piping, and work on the interior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 Lots done on the Z this weekend: Fuel lines up to the fuel pressure regulator - do you think the fuel lines sticking out from under the car give anything away? Bracket bent back in an "L" and everything painted up nice and bolted in tight: I ran the fuel lines next to the diff and driveshaft. They used to run under the rear swaybar, but I like this routing much better. If you want to work on the rear of the car the rear swaybar comes out first and fuel lines in the way are a drag. A good pic of the rear brake line clamped to the frame rail and the bulkhead fittings for the fuel. I think I'll be moving my fuel filter that goes before the fuel rail down to this bulkhead: And up to the fuel pressure regulator: You may remember I dropped my tail lights and ruined them a month or so ago. I got new ones and decided to paint the bezels. Notice the box in the background I used to paint them on... yeah - its a baby stroller box. Thanks Mom and Dad! Put in over a roll of Raamat sound deadening. Really time consuming but I think it will be worth the weight (get it... wait.. weight... - sorry - corny I know). Roll bar is tightened down, seats are bolted in, and harnesses are bolted in and adjusted. HOLY CRAP I need new door skins! Maybe I'll bring back white vinyl and fake wood strips? My carpet is in very sad shape. What does it cost to have some custom upholstry done? I'm not a fabric and carpet kind of guy. The 8' long x 20" deep with 2 built in sinks (cultured marble) bathroom countertop came in today. I somehow managed to wrestle that heavy bastard (over 200 lbs) up some stairs and in place in the bathroom without hurting myself. I only scratched up the wall in one place. I'll be working the next 2 days on completing the bathroom at which time I'll be free from home repair jail and back on the Z. I'm ordering parts tonight and I'll be reassembling the tail lights and starting on intercooler piping this week. Feedback always appreciated. Thanks and stay tuned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trwebb26 Posted September 6, 2009 Author Share Posted September 6, 2009 Been a while since my last update. Finished the bathroom, cleaned up the house for my wife's baby shower, stayed as far away as possible from the baby shower (last Saturday), got sick on Sunday, missed some work during the week for being sick, and finally got a chance to work on the Z yesterday for a while. Tail lights are assembled and installed (I forgot to take a picture), and I finished my downpipe. Holy crap do I have a lot of time into this thing: Really happy with how it turned out. The wastegate exits into the straight section of the main pipe to try and prevent any extra backpressure. I was 3/4 of the way with the last weld to complete my exhaust and ran out of shielding gas. I've pretty much just got intercooler piping left along with some other odds and ends so I expect I'll be able to keep myself busy tomorrow (install clutch slave and bleed it, do some wiring, start mocking up some of the intercooler bends, and maybe some other stuff). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
e_racer1999 Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 I don't know if you've already thought about this, but if my memory serves me correctly the Holsets need a 1/4" spacer between the turbine and the manifold; I noticed you had no spacer. Have you checked clearances? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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