jc052685 Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 I am running a 79 non turbo block (f54 I think), 81 turbo head (p90). A = 82 280zx turbo B = 78 280z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 I am running a 79 non turbo block (f54 I think), 81 turbo head (p90). A = 82 280zx turbo B = 78 280z I've read here that you should match the HG to the block. If it is a 79 car then it should be a N42 block. The didn't go F54 until 81 IIRC. This is important, N/A F54s had flat tops, all other L28s have -10cc pistons Have you used your search function today? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Nissan OEM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted July 23, 2009 Author Share Posted July 23, 2009 I am pretty sure all 280ZXs got the F54 block. There is an early non-turbo, late non-turbo and the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slown280z Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 I am pretty sure all 280ZXs got the F54 block. There is an early non-turbo, late non-turbo and the turbo. Nope wrong. It's an N42. F54's were for the later years. EDIT: Why even do this, go out and look at the stamp on your block! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 Nope wrong. It's an N42. F54's were for the later years. EDIT: Why even do this, go out and look at the stamp on your block! Cause I dont have access to the car right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 calling the pro's? well here I am. Go to Nissan and get the metallic, lead type OEM head gasket for a 1983 Nissan 280zx turbo. Its about $45 I think? are your pistons flat or dished? If they are flat, don't run much boost. Disclaimer: I am not really a pro, just a guy with a bunch of youtube videos, and I've blown 3 motors trying to turbo them, and run super high boost. blah blah blah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Nissan OEM real pro, he speaks the truth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted July 25, 2009 Author Share Posted July 25, 2009 I was mostly concerned with the position of all the openings for coolant. Fighting keeping this thing cool! Thanks phil. Might have to try the 83 model from nissan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luckygerman Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 You could use a OEM gasket but remember that the OEM is old technology. I would Use a Multi-layerd Cometic/felpro Gasket especialy when your running on turbo. I would also spray them with some copper gasket sealer, they say that you wont need it but it makes for a better seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 You could use a OEM gasket but remember that the OEM is old technology. I would Use a Multi-layerd Cometic/felpro Gasket especialy when your running on turbo. I would also spray them with some copper gasket sealer, they say that you wont need it but it makes for a better seal. LOL Do you even know what your talking about? First off all cometic doesnt even make a L6 head gasket. And these guys speak the truth. The "old technology" is better than a felpro gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luckygerman Posted July 25, 2009 Share Posted July 25, 2009 Cometic was just an example,I was not aware they didn't make one for his application, they sure make it for everything else. my point was to use a Multi layered gasket over a non layerd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 Cometic does not make an L6 gasket. As Phil said, get the ZX turbo OEM gasket. It is the best gasket you can buy for the L6. I've had one on my turbo motor for at least 8 years running 12-15psi. Lots of track days too. No problems. The key is no detonation. The nice part about an OEM style gasket is that it will blow if your engine detonates badley. An aftermarket metal one like Cometic or HKS will not blow, so some thing else most likely will (piston, rod, etc.). For any turbo build running 15psi or less the OEM gask IS the best choice period. If they are good enough for an SCCA GT2 motor running 15:1CR, they are good enough for any street turbo motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B00STDZ Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt75036/pd1847007/DATSUN_L6_COPPER_HEADGASKETS_ How about copper headgaskets? http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt43033/pd858312/KAMEARI_L6_METAL_HEAD_GASKETS_ Or the expensive kameari? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean73 Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 I ran the Fel-Pro on my flattop L28 Turbo and now on my L30 Turbo. I don't see what the big deal is about the aftermarket metal gaskets. Sorry for my ignorance, but if you cut into the Felpro, it has a solid metal core... so what's the big difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted July 27, 2009 Administrators Share Posted July 27, 2009 1) HBZ Rule #4 fellas, there is NO best! 2) This thread will remain open, so long as it doesn’t turn into a debate with claims such as; “Head gasket Alpha sucks, gasket Charlie is the best!” My $.02 on this topic. I have seen time and time again where one guy has a head gasket fail and he immediately blames the gasket for being inadequate instead of rightfully thanking his lucky starts that the engine’s poor coolant circulation or HIS poor tuning failed the head gasket instead of the pistons, rings, rods, crank, etc! i.e. it was NOT the gasket that failed but detonation caused by something else that caused the failure of a totally adequate part! NO head gasket is designed to contain detonation, nor would you want any gasket to do such! Detonation is BAD, destructive, expensive, especially when it’s exaggerated with boost. Many members here are very much aware of this. I do believe the stamped multi layer head gaskets and or Block O-ringing has its place in highly boosted radical applications. Those gaskets and O-rings due a wonderful job of keeping the head sealed to the block under extreme conditions, great for race cars and even prudent from some street applications. For some ragged edge race builds you have to start out with these gaskets and/or O-ringed blocks, which is fine. But for pump gas street engines, especially a new untested build, (by "untested", I mean the first time that particular head and block has seen boost in its life, not just the copying someone else's that has "similar" castings), I would recommend running the cheapest head gasket that has the desired coolant passages until you have been able to run just a little beyond your desired boost level goal, under extreme conditions, without failure! If the cheap gasket fails, then fix the detonation issue and continue to use the cheap gaskets till you get it live! Who knows, you might just leave that cheapo gasket in cause "should" work any way! I would recommend stepping up to ARP head studs past 12-15 lbs of boost. If you jump straight into those “tougher” gaskets, rest assured if detonation is present, which happens quite often with the L-6 and many never know it till a part fails, the next weakest link in the chain of parts WILL fail! Pistons are much more expensive to replace and take longer to swap out than head gaskets! Just ask anyone that has to do so! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 1) HBZ Rule #4 fellas, there is NO best! 2) This thread will remain open, so long as it doesn’t turn into a debate with claims such as; “Head gasket Alpha sucks, gasket Charlie is the best!” Please disregard my use of the word "best" in all of my posts above. What I really meant to say is "preferred". My $.02 on this topic. I have seen time and time again where one guy has a head gasket fail and he immediately blames the gasket for being inadequate instead of rightfully thanking his lucky starts that the engine’s poor coolant circulation or HIS poor tuning failed the head gasket instead of the pistons, rings, rods, crank, etc! i.e. it was NOT the gasket that failed but detonation caused by something else that caused the failure of a totally adequate part! NO head gasket is designed to contain detonation, nor would you want any gasket to do such! Detonation is BAD, destructive, expensive, especially when it’s exaggerated with boost. Many members here are very much aware of this. I do believe the stamped multi layer head gaskets and or Block O-ringing has its place in highly boosted radical applications. Those gaskets and O-rings due a wonderful job of keeping the head sealed to the block under extreme conditions, great for race cars and even prudent from some street applications. For some ragged edge race builds you have to start out with these gaskets and/or O-ringed blocks, which is fine. But for pump gas street engines, especially a new untested build, (by "untested", I mean the first time that particular head and block has seen boost in its life, not just the copying someone else's that has "similar" castings), I would recommend running the cheapest head gasket that has the desired coolant passages until you have been able to run just a little beyond your desired boost level goal, under extreme conditions, without failure! If the cheap gasket fails, then fix the detonation issue and continue to use the cheap gaskets till you get it live! Who knows, you might just leave that cheapo gasket in cause "should" work any way! I would recommend stepping up to ARP head studs past 12-15 lbs of boost. If you jump straight into those “tougher” gaskets, rest assured if detonation is present, which happens quite often with the L-6 and many never know it till a part fails, the next weakest link in the chain of parts WILL fail! Pistons are much more expensive to replace and take longer to swap out than head gaskets! Just ask anyone that has to do so! Extremely well-spoken (as usual) Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators BRAAP Posted July 27, 2009 Administrators Share Posted July 27, 2009 Please disregard my use of the word "best" in all of my posts above. What I really meant to say is "preferred". . Pete, Wasn't directed towards you or any one person. Your input is always greatly appreciated. Title of the thread was the Rule #4 red flag waver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jc052685 Posted July 28, 2009 Author Share Posted July 28, 2009 1) HBZ Rule #4 fellas, there is NO best! 2) This thread will remain open, so long as it doesn’t turn into a debate with claims such as; “Head gasket Alpha sucks, gasket Charlie is the best!” Well It was not ment to be a debate but I realised the image I posted never showed up so there is some confusion. My specific question is which of the below gaskest would provide the best coolant flow through the head. This is with an N42 bock and P90 head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-phil Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 Well It was not ment to be a debate but I realised the image I posted never showed up so there is some confusion. My specific question is which of the below gaskest would provide the best coolant flow through the head. This is with an N42 bock and P90 head. I would go with gasket "B" for the most cooling. Here is a P90 head. My fingers are pointing to the cooling holes that might get covered with the wrong gasket. and here is a Felpro gasket on the right, and a high dollar (NOT FOR SALE) multi layer metal head gasket Its kinda hard to see but the felpro does not have all the cooling holes you might want, where as the other does. I thought I had an old OEM gasket to show, but I'm sure it also has the extra cooling holes when bought for the 83 zx turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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