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Calling all Mechanics or those mechanically inclined...


Mikelly

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I have a brain teaser for you guys... 1989 240SX has a nocking in it at idle... I put it in gear (Automatic) and drive down my brother inlaws driveway (1/3rd of a mile long) and at certain RPMs the knocking goes away all together. Any idea what this could be??? We are going to pull the motor and trans over the next few weeks just to take measurements, as I'm gonna stuff a 5.0 mustang motor in it, but I'm curious as hell why it isn't knocking consistantly through the rev range...

 

Mike Kelly hail.gif

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Mike,

AFAIK, it could be one of three things:

Piston slap

bad engine mount

cracked flywheel (or flexplate in this case). My neighbour's 199x Maxima had what sounded to be a bearing knock....turns out the cracking of the flywheel is fairly common for the Maximas, so maybe SX's too?

Tim

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Is it actually sound like a knock? Is it always there at idle? My Miata does the same thing but it is a known problem with the hydraulic lifters. Does not sound like a knock typical of a say a rod, but it is not the light ticking typical of a hydraulic lifter either. Difference with mine is that it is not there all the time and when it is, it goes away as soon as the RPMs come up.

 

Hope it is something that "simple".

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This thing is a dead on KNock and I put it on a lift with it running to try and figure if it was coming from the top or bottom of the motor and it sounded like it was from all over... Which may be the reason if the flex plate is cracked... I'll check and see if the flex plate is cracked... If that is the case, I'll be replacing the flex plate and driving the thing daily until we get all the Ford Swap parts together...

 

I HOPE it is the flex plate... $200 for the car, that would be TO FUNNY!

 

Mike :rolleyes:

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Anonymous

Flex plate is a good possibility. Picked up on a 520 pickup 10 years ago for A $100.00 that had garage reciepts for over a $1000.00 for a recent motor rebuild that was thrashed (?) on the way home from the repair shop. The father of the owner lost interest in replacing all the rod bolts which he felt was the problem. He managed to get the oil pan off and lose about half the bolts. I towed it in and finished the job, cranked it over and about lost a few fillings in my teeth from all the shaking and loud knocking.A few days later I backed it out of the garage and all problems ceased to exist by just pushing in the clutch. Apparently Junior was doing some speed shifting on the return from the engine rebuild and chipped a major portion of a gear tooth in the transmission. That motor ran like the thousand dollars was well spent.Sold the pickup for a grand within a week

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Guest Anonymous

you know i have the same problem (loose converter bolts i think) on my GF's 77 firebird. it drive fine but if you hit the 2-3 shift in the auto while being on the throttle man does it make a unholy racket the first time i heard it i thought i had fragged the cam and the pieces were flyin all around in their

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....I haven't had the time to work that issue. I'm ognna pull it into the garage over the weekend and get it on the lift and drop the starter to see if I can find anything amiss. Hopefully there will be an inspection panel on the trans for me to remove and have a look.

 

Mike :rolleyes:

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Mike,

 

I maybe way off but to me that sounds like low oil pressure with worn bearings. At idle or low speeds you hear the noise more readily but as speed/engine RPM goes up the pressure builds and the noise (knock) decreases. How many miles on the engine? MTC

 

Danno74Z

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Motor has 92,000 on it and the knocking isn't there only in a very narrow power range (Somewhere between 2-2500RPMS it goes away)... But knocks ALL THE TIME at adle... Strange, but I'll find out this weekend!

 

Mike bonk.gif

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Have you run any engine cleaner with the oil thru it? Scotties 'lifter' comment might be spot on....it's happend on VG30's as well. Going down to Shasta the 'knock' hit my freinds VG30. Screwdriver/ear seemed to pinpoint it to the intake but it was quite prominent all over and not crystal clear by any means.

 

Good luck.

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Guys, Here is the extent that I have worked on the 240SX...Pulled it home from Connecticut... Unloaded it at my brother inlaws house. Threw a battery in it and was shocked when it actually ran. Put it on a lift and did the screw driver test with the car running on the lift in the raised and lowered position and quite frankly that has been it. Oh, and I put a set of 16 inch 5 stars my buddy gave me on it. My brother inlaw took a trip in it down the driveway and found that it actually quit knocking in a specific RPM range driving downt he driveway. I'm gonna make time for it, just trying to do about a 100 different things right now! Reason for this thread is that I need to be armed with as many clues from you guys as possible so I can just start trying stuff until I find it... I'm hoping the motor won't have to be torn down!

Mike :D

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Here are my thoughts or rather experience. Back in '76 when I bought my first car ('71 Pinto-yeah, I hear all you guys out there laughing, but it really was a good car), I dogged it (headers, 390 holley, etc) until it started knocking. It was a periodic knock, just as you describe, and if I kept the rpms just right, it would go away. It did get progressively worse, and toward the end, the "quiet" rpm range had deminished to a very narrow band, but by then I had set up an A-frame and swapped to a new motor late Saturday night at the apt complex I lived at, and finished up Sunday morning just in time for the owners of the complex to drive by and see the carnage on the way to church. Lessons learned: 1) After tearing down the motor, I found the a rod bearing that was nearly gone, and that was where the noise came from. 2) Found out how expensive it was to have to move to another apt complex after the owner kicked me out of my current apt.

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