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Use relay board or not?


Scott_M67

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I'm curious for those who are running MS-1 PCBV3, MS-N-Se or similar in a 280 L28ET conversion, are there any pros or cons to wiring the car using the relay board and associated wiring vs using the MS wiring harness? I'm thinking for ease of installation that just the wire harness would be the way to go.

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I used the relay board, and it made the install go pretty smoothly, it was also my first major electronics/wiring project. Now that the car is running though, I wish I had wired up my own fuse and relay panel, and sometime in the future I will probably re-do it to eliminate the MS relay board.

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i bought it because i knew this was going to be a PROJECT. so, i tried to take every way i could find, to see fit to an easy project. (oxymoron). excuse me....to EASE on the difficutly of the project.

 

the relay board is great man. every thing is just right there. cheap too. 60 bucks from DIYAUTOTUNE and i soldered the 12-15 peices to the board haha.

 

ecu....cable.....relayboard...wires to sensors.....EASY.

 

12v to bat.

12v switched to blue and white ignition wire from ignition switch. (260z)

engine ground......same as ...engine ground.

 

as for a fan usage? im not sure. i was just going to run a temp switch so it kicks on auto. make my own little set up for that.

 

i wouldnt doubt if the relay board can feature extra utilities like that.

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Guest Rolling Parts

Biggest "con" is that you then have 2 boxes that you have to find a place to mount inside the car cabin. Another is that you have to run the umbilical between the boxes and with the screw terminals it multiplies the number of connections (by a factor of 3) that can/will be a problem with voltage sensitive instruments.

 

You really can't go wrong in just buying the 12' colored cable from DIY. Everything is clearly marked and you NEED to buy connection wire to the sensors and injectors anyway. The 12' let me put the MS box behind the drivers seat and still plenty of wire (of exactly the correct gauge and type) run to the engine bay.

 

I now have an unused relay board because it seemed like a good idea until I realized that it created a real rats nest and installation problems. So much easier to just run the DIY bundle into the engine bay and work on connecting there (in my experience).

 

EDIT: I added an 8 fuse fusebox and single 60 amp relay to the engine side firewall (like an AC Cobra does). It powers the 2 banks of injectors, MSII, fan, EDIS coilpack, WB O2 sensor, etc and is an easy one-stop place to wire to for the mod. The key-on that triggers the relay is simply the old +12 to the now non-existant old single coil. Simple, cheap, and clean.

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EDIT: I added an 8 fuse fusebox and single 60 amp relay to the engine side firewall (like an AC Cobra does). It powers the 2 banks of injectors, MSII, fan, EDIS coilpack, WB O2 sensor, etc and is an easy one-stop place to wire to for the mod. The key-on that triggers the relay is simply the old +12 to the now non-existant old single coil. Simple, cheap, and clean.

 

Do you happen to have any pictures of your fuse and relay setup that you could post?

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I used a relay board on my first install, made things easier on me being a newbie. Since then I have only used a relay board on my LSx install. I mounted it in the engine compartment so that I would have a good place to scope signals since the LS1 install support was thin. The relay board makes the install a little easier, but does add more potential problems as Rolling Parts points out.

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Wow, lots of good points to consider. I do like the idea of a clean install with one cable like Rolling Parts pointed out. Now you got me thinking about EDIS too, sounds like another project to figure out, not to mention do I stick with the proven and stable MS-1 PCBV3 w/ MSnSE or make the jump to the newer MSII?

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