cygnusx1 Posted October 21, 2010 Share Posted October 21, 2010 (edited)  When I did my door (first body work/paint I ever did) I was amazed at how much my nasty paint surface could be rectified with wet sanding.  I had serious orange peel (rattle can) which was easily knocked down with 1000 wet and block.  It polished up quickly with the buffer and compound, and looked totally glossy and smooth.  After that door, I had had enough.  I can't imagine how tired you must be from all that work.  Looking good though. Edited October 21, 2010 by cygnusx1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted October 22, 2010 Author Share Posted October 22, 2010 (edited)  When I did my door (first body work/paint I ever did) I was amazed at how much my nasty paint surface could be rectified with wet sanding.  I had serious orange peel (rattle can) which was easily knocked down with 1000 wet and block.  It polished up quickly with the buffer and compound, and looked totally glossy and smooth.  After that door, I had had enough.  I can't imagine how tired you must be from all that work.  Looking good though. Yeah, it's tiring to say the least! I've been working on the body off and on for the past 4 months or so, maybe longer I don't recall anymore lol. I'm almost to the point where I say the hell with it and leave it as it sits I have a new found respect for the body/paint PROS out there that do this daily! Now I know why professional work costs so much for a GOOD product ! Edited October 22, 2010 by Blown77Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Roy Posted October 22, 2010 Share Posted October 22, 2010 Wow, I am jealous. I wish I could do it myself. I like the primer look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greghassen Posted October 23, 2010 Share Posted October 23, 2010 (edited) ARE YOU USING THIS SPRAY GUN TO SPRAY PRIMER TOO??? if you are.... that gun needs meticulous cleaning after using primer in it. if you're only using it for the basecoat and NOT the primer.... that crap that came out of your spray gun looks like you did not strain the paint when you poured it into the paint cup OR you didn't clean up your gun good enough when you used it the time before. whatever you do DON'T just 1200 grit sand the bumps and clear. been there done that and it messes up the metallics. you need a light respray of metallics. what i'de do is 600 wetsand it smooth and apply a light coat of basecoat to get the metallics uniform, then clear coat it. if you clear over that crap there is no way you can buff or colorsand that so its smooth. it will be encapsulated in the clear. you dont have to sand the whole panel. just 600 the crap in the paint. your paint will stick to the unsanded paint because its still fresh and will melt into your previous spray. holy crap... people are still using red lacquer spot putty. wow thats old school. don't apply that stuff too thick, it takes forever to dry and shinks big-time. i applaud your energy level on this project. you must be YOUNG with lots of energy. If you're an old guy like me then i'de like to know what vitamins you're taking. Edited October 23, 2010 by greghassen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted October 26, 2010 Author Share Posted October 26, 2010 ARE YOU USING THIS SPRAY GUN TO SPRAY PRIMER TOO??? if you are.... that gun needs meticulous cleaning after using primer in it. if you're only using it for the basecoat and NOT the primer.... that crap that came out of your spray gun looks like you did not strain the paint when you poured it into the paint cup OR you didn't clean up your gun good enough when you used it the time before. whatever you do DON'T just 1200 grit sand the bumps and clear. been there done that and it messes up the metallics. you need a light respray of metallics. what i'de do is 600 wetsand it smooth and apply a light coat of basecoat to get the metallics uniform, then clear coat it. if you clear over that crap there is no way you can buff or colorsand that so its smooth. it will be encapsulated in the clear. you dont have to sand the whole panel. just 600 the crap in the paint. your paint will stick to the unsanded paint because its still fresh and will melt into your previous spray. holy crap... people are still using red lacquer spot putty. wow thats old school. don't apply that stuff too thick, it takes forever to dry and shinks big-time. i applaud your energy level on this project. you must be YOUNG with lots of energy. If you're an old guy like me then i'de like to know what vitamins you're taking. I'm using different guns for the base and primer The paint was strained into the spray gun canister and the gun was cleaned prior to spraying !! Still leaning towards application error (to far away). I'm going to find out next time I spray for sure ! I'm going to put a light coat over the "fixed" areas like you mentioned, not just clear coat it....it looks horrible atm lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 (edited) Body work / primer 3.0 COMPLETE. Sprayed the primer on this afternoon. I've worked on this car off and on for the past 3-4 months (again). I had to add to some of the body work to make it right this time. First coat of primer: Third coat: First coat: Third coat: Edited March 2, 2011 by Blown77Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted March 2, 2011 Author Share Posted March 2, 2011 More pictures of 3.0 work. It's NOT 100% perfect, however, it's 100% OK by me. I didn't expect it to come out looking like a professional did it I just want this thing back on the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kuro Posted March 3, 2011 Share Posted March 3, 2011 Wow looks awesome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted March 27, 2011 Author Share Posted March 27, 2011 (edited) Base coat / Clear coat DONE. Finished the car, took ALOT longer than I expected (19 months total). I still need to polish out the clearcoat. Has a little orangepeel in it, but I knew it wasn't going to be perfect. It looks 100% better outside in the sunlight than it does under garage lighting. Will I do this much body work / complete paint job again.......NOPE NOW to get it put back together, mount the front bumper, install front/rear glass, change oil, replace fuel then MAYBE I can drive the car again! What a HELL of a journey this has been LOL. Edited March 27, 2011 by Blown77Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted March 28, 2011 Share Posted March 28, 2011 Wow man, that looks like a lot of work. I keep thinking maybe I could do this kind of job myself too, but then I see an experience like you just went through and I start thinking that a professional might do a better job. I mean there's a reason it's so expensive to have it done right. You went through 19 Months of heck to get a decent finish. If I put away 100 bucks a month for 19 months I could get a decent finish as well, and not have to do the work. I applaud you though, it's always good to see a project finish. We'll see where I am when I get to the body/painting portion of my cars. How much did the total job end up costing you? Phar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blown77Z Posted March 28, 2011 Author Share Posted March 28, 2011 Wow man, that looks like a lot of work. I keep thinking maybe I could do this kind of job myself too, but then I see an experience like you just went through and I start thinking that a professional might do a better job. I mean there's a reason it's so expensive to have it done right. You went through 19 Months of heck to get a decent finish. If I put away 100 bucks a month for 19 months I could get a decent finish as well, and not have to do the work. I applaud you though, it's always good to see a project finish. We'll see where I am when I get to the body/painting portion of my cars. How much did the total job end up costing you? Phar A LOT of work is an understatement The bulk of the cost included the air compressor, paint, and paint guns was around 900-1,000, plus an additional 100-200 in various sanding pads, body filler, etc... and at LEAST 100+ hours of work over the past 19 months or so. I wanted the experience of doing it myself, but I will NEVER do this again LOL. There's no question about it, a professional WILL do a better job That's why it costs so much, they deserve it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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