jtburf Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 Well since we could not get the spindle pin puller back in circluation so I opted to build one for myself, I will end up building a rigid version here shortly and possibly make it a loaner type tool. Materials needed 2- 3/8-16 coupling nut ( drill and tap one end M12-1.25) 1- 3/4" ID large washer 1- 5/8 Hardened washer 1- 1/2 Hardened washer 1- 3/8-16 all thread 12" long 1- 1" ID pipe 10" long 1- propane tourch What I did was drill and tap one coupling nut 1/2 way through with the metric M12-1.25 tap, and then proceeded to tightened it on the rear section of the spindle pin. Followed by threading the 12" long all thread in the open end of the coupling nut. I then applied a nice coat of grease to the all thread, followed by sliding the pipe over the all thread mateing it to the lower control arm, then I arranged the washers from largest to smallest and finally the threading on the last coupling nut. Hand tighten as firmly as possible, and start to apply pressure with a 9/16ths wrench (note I did break 2 all threads before using heat). With the assistance of a helper have one person constantly apply heat to the cast iron control arm section while the other person continually tightens the coupling nut (I ended up using a small pipe wrench as it allowed a ratchet type action). I found the application of heat worked best at breaking the pin free, although I did apply frequent blunt force blows from a 3# short handled sledge...lol Pictures do not actually show step by step process I will document the drivers side removal better. Thanks for looking, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adam78280z Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 nice! I'm in the process of replacing the bushings around the spindle pin. I have completely destroyed the pin on my press and it hasn't budged. I might have to make something like your setup! In the meantime I will probably end up sawzalling the pin on either side of the cast section so i can get the swing arm off. That way I can put the cast piece in the press and it is either going to move or something it going to break Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zedman240 Posted October 18, 2009 Share Posted October 18, 2009 What doesn't help sometimes is if the previous installer didn't install the locking cotter pins in right; it damages the edges on either side of the flat on the spindle pin making it so much harder to remove! Been through this ordeal only once...no more! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 Just last night I broke off the threaded portion of the drivers side spindle pin trying to pull it out with the 1" diameter puller that I bought on this board. The pin moved about 1/4" before breaking. I pulled the strut housing and lower a-arm off the car and doused the pin in PB Blaster. I'll try pulling the pin from the opposite direction (fwd) next weekend. The passenger side came out with no problem. Not sure why this one is such a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtburf Posted October 19, 2009 Author Share Posted October 19, 2009 Just an update, we welded the washers to the pipe this afternoon granted its not my best weld but it holds! Started working on drivers side and now the assistant is doing the work so at his request no blunt force trama to the spindle pin... yep 2 all threads broke so far...lol... I'm betting he will allow some slight tapping with a sledge ASAP!!!! I will keep on posting on this thread as we go... It is after all his car and a father son project! I did discover for those having issues removing the break drum on an older car send the lugs back towards the axel and it will help in pulling the drum!!! Besides what kind of dad would I be if he did not get a full disk upgrade!!!! John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbpowered280z Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 when i did mine, it took us having to take it to a shop to have it pressed out. 15 tons of pressure, after the guy heated it up a few times, and 1/2 a bottle of wd40. ridiculous. Lloyd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yan929 Posted October 24, 2009 Share Posted October 24, 2009 nice! I'm in the process of replacing the bushings around the spindle pin. I have completely destroyed the pin on my press and it hasn't budged. I might have to make something like your setup! In the meantime I will probably end up sawzalling the pin on either side of the cast section so i can get the swing arm off. That way I can put the cast piece in the press and it is either going to move or something it going to break I did the same as you. Used the sawzall now need to find a press to get this ting out of there. This little piece is a real pain in the... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waddiejohn Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 Could you have the pieces machined out of the casting after the Sawzall treatment and could a slide hammer be used while heat is applied around the outside of the casting instead of the Sawzall treatment.? Might have to heat both of the casting bosses at the same time and clean or sand the pin that is exposed between the bosses to make it work. I've not done this job so I'm unfamiliar but itlooks like it might work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncfisher Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 we broke the pin tool a couple of times, don't use a wrench to loosen try impact wrench first did like 6 of them in no time at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 I have been thinking of rigging my 20 ton log splitter for spindle pin pushing. Of course I have no plan to pull my pins anytime soon. It's just that I need something to think about while I am out, in the chilly weather, splitting firewood. Anyone else think of cool things to try with a log splitter? A 20 ton, hydraulic, motorized, spindle pin puller would be da bomb! Riot shield mandatory! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 I finally got mine out after breaking off one end of the pin with the puller. I ended up taking the strut housing and LCA off the car and putting it on a bench. I soaked it in PB Blaster overnight then pulled it out from the opposite side (FWD side). The damn thing fought me the whole way out. I'd get about 1/4 of a turn with no movement then suddenly POP and it would move. It did this for the first 3 inches or so. It was a real workout. I'm going to reinstall with anti-seize just in case I ever have to do this again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtburf Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 ncfisher, We found a impact works well, however this weekend because of a lost washer we devloped tool issues...lol will be correcting that soon. cygnusx1, Log splitter idea sounds neat, I will venture to assume you plan on doing this with the whole Lower Control Arm and Strut assembly off the car?... If not, I see clearance issues!!! Keep us posted I would like to see the setup. Rossman, Seabrook, heck I drive through there all the time I have some very good friends in Shoreacres, I plan to re-design the tool to make it a little more solid and cure the issues between the nut and shoulder washer. If I can tweak the puller I will look at getting it shipped from user to user with out my involvement... Thanks again, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncfisher Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 ncfisher, We found a impact works well, however this weekend because of a lost washer we devloped tool issues...lol will be correcting that soon. after 6 of them we need a new bolt and the threads are real sharp on the tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
97s14kouki Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 this tool is a life saver. I completed my bushing a few months ago. Without a puller I would have just gave up on the pin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Rossman, Seabrook, heck I drive through there all the time I have some very good friends in Shoreacres, I plan to re-design the tool to make it a little more solid and cure the issues between the nut and shoulder washer. Cool. I actually live off NASA Road One near Kirby. It's not Seabrook proper but it's my mailing address. Cheers, Ross Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 Someone should come up with a 'Pin Puller Club' sticker for those that have ventured here. I built my own puller using only the finest materials. One pin came right out. I was thinking 'This is a breeze!' until I got to the other side. Both ends gave way before the pin moved. I ended up removing the LCA/strut and cutting the pin between the two to separate them. Getting the pin out of the strut housing required a 25 ton press, a scatter shield and luck. Once that piece of pin was out you could clearly see where it was seizing because the locking pin was overtightened and distorted the spindle pin. I polished the strut housing hole and new pins and applied plenty of copper-based antiseize before assembly. I should never have a need to be here again but am sure it would be much easier the next time. Rule #1, DO NOT install the lock pin with a hammer and hi-torque. The spindle pin is distorted and won't come out if you do! It is only there to keep the spindle pin from rotating while installing the nuts on either end. That seems to be the culprit in most of these cases. My lock pins are tapped in lightly and there is no nut retaining them as there is barely enough thread to hold onto. Most seem to drive the lock pin in until they can get a washer and nut on it...bad idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrel Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 Just don't use the lock pins. WQhen I changed out struts tubes on the rear, I was able to put the spindle pins back in with any trouble, just like when I installed them doing the bushing replacement. The only thing I would suggest is to use enough silicone to cap the holes for the lock pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtburf Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 Update, Since we were having some struggles removing the second pin (broke the 3/8- 16 All thread) so I decided to go bigger. Yesterday I purchased a 1' section of 3/4-10 all thread,3/4" nuts and large 3/4" washers and bingo the pin pulled very easy this way. My idea is to build pins and the outer body of the tool a little cheaper than previously listed. Due to the size of the parts shipping would need to be through USPS. Here is the bill of materials 2-3/4-10 allthread 1' long 1-3/4" water pipe 1-3/4 coupling 1-3/4-11 nut 2-3/4 flat washer The reason i going to two all threads is because when the 3/4" nut was to deep for our impact socket to grab we simply used a sawzall to cut the excess all thread off. Basically we impacted the pin out and every two inches we shortened the all thread. Let me know if you would be interested in one of these. Sorry no pictures yesterday but the process was no different than eariler pictures. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryb Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 I would be intertested for sure! Perhaps a barter of some sort...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtburf Posted October 31, 2009 Author Share Posted October 31, 2009 I would be intertested for sure! Perhaps a barter of some sort...... Let me gather all the materials, I'm going to have one of my old shops drill and tap both ends of the all thread next week, I will post up some nice pictures and get one up to you. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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