So what makes a GOOD V8Z package, anyway???

[Mikelly]

Oh boy, opinions are gonna come out of the woodwork on this one...

 

Lets forget appearance for the moment and discuss why it is soo important to build a V8 Zcar, and to have a plan... By the way, You know how to make god laugh??? Make a plan.

 

Anyway, the most important thing you want to do before you ever start purchasing parts is to decide what you intend to do with the car REALISTICALLY... This will ultimately decide which direction you want to go in. For this excerisize lets say we want an high 11 second to low 12 second street car that handles reasonably well for some occasional drag passes at your local strip, and the occasional solo2 autocross.

 

The next question is also equally important... What creature comforts can you live without, and what must you have...Radio, CD Changer??? A/C??? P-L-A-N... Make sure you have researched everything... Notice that you haven't spent a dime... Next, lets face it, some of the items we purchase for the car are must have, and others are well, BLING BLING, bragging rights, cool factor parts... But certainly fall in the more expensive of options... What CAN you REALISTICALLY afford... That is very important if you don't have a headroom on the credit card, or have a wife who will NOT understand spending that additional fun money on parts parts parts... Sometimes the cold hard reality of a projects cost can be the nail in the coffen. Trust me on this one. If there are any other cars out there that you think you can have just as much fun in, then do a little comparo... I could have bought a C5 Corvette with the money I have tied up in V8Zparts... and I'm NOT kidding either... Make sure you REALLY want to build THIS CAR!!!

 

OK, so now you have your I's dotted and your T's Crossed in your plan and you are resolved to the fact that you can do this...

 

Powerplant - doesn't matter. Unless you can't fabricate. Then go with a Chevy since JTR and Hooker, as well as MSA already have solutions pre-made. If you aren't affraid to roll up your sleeves, then drop in a ford, dodge, or pontiac motor... Trans??? Slush box or row your own, again, not a huge factor...Unless you do the Hooker thing... Then you have problems with the shifter to acocunt for... So keep that in mind...

 

The weight issue has been beat to death...Guess what, ALUMINUM WEIGHS LESS... Shocker... OK, if budget can afford this hit, plan on aluminum heads and intake. Those are the most important in my mind when picking parts... Other than Cam, and valve train type.

 

Internal engine components...Hmmm Seems that you could do a search here and find that in HybridZ's inception I was a fan of cast pistons because that is what I had in my motor at the time... Until I opened it up and found CLAIMER low end pistons in the motor... You can get forged pistons and rods relatively cheap... I'd recommend building the strongest bottom end you can afford... But don't scrimp on bolts... GET TOP OF THE LINE ARPs regardless of the other areas to cut corners at...

 

Lets move to a couple of areas I always read about when a HybridZ guy first gets his project running... Heat of the starter solenoid, and coolant issues with the radiator... bottom line is the engine bay keeps in a LOT of heat, and if you don't MOVE enough air through the radiator, then you will not cool the motor... Make sure to get a remote starter relay and hang it in a location AWAY from the heat of your exhaust manifolds... Also, plan to shroud the fan, and invest in a good electrical cooling fan. Do those now, and you won't have to worry later..

 

The other area is the infamous Drive line angle... Might as well research that now. You will deal with it later, so you need to understand what is causing it and how to fix it.

 

Braking... YOU Don't need big brakes, but it helps. I wouldn't say you even NEED rear disc brakes, but they look nice, and the maintenance is well worth the conversion. Keep in mind the Bling Bling comment I made above. However, At the least, I'd plan to upgrade the front rotors to something vented, and larger in diameter, as well as a better caliper. The rears can be compensated with better shoe material, aluminum drums and better fluid. Brakes can run you crazy money... Keep in mind that when upgrading the brake calipers and rotors that you will probably need to upgrade the booster and mastercylinder which will add to the cost. Budget $1500 to cover a FRONT only disc upgrade with better fluid and better shoes for the rear. See Mike Gibson for ALL your braking needs...

 

Suspension... This is another hotbed for contention... Coil overs are all the rage, and if you don't section the strut housing then shame on you... Uh, No. You can build a relatively balanced car without going crazy on coil overs. Just keep in mind that coil overs do give you something besides the addition of ride height adjustment... You can also set your corner weights, which will make your car MORE TUNABLE for ANY serious road course work!!! However, my V8Z had MSA springs and the old Koni Red oil filled struts that Arizona Zcar used to sell and everyone I took for a ride in the car was simply amazed... After you get the car running and have enjoyed it for a while, then you can go back and put my crazy ZF Racing control arms and coil overs on the car at a later time. Bushings, subframe connectors (A Must) and a bolt in cage helped mine, too. What is mandatory is getting a good set of struts on a nice set of stiffer (Not necessarelly shorter) springs, larger sway bars (Atleast a larger front unit, but not too big) and urethane every spot possible when it comes to bushings is a minimal starting point... That should cost you about $1500 including all parts listed below:

Springs from MSA OR AZC are about $300

Struts are About $65 each for tokico non adjustables. a full bushing kit is $200 plus installation, and getting a shop to weld in your subframes should run less than $500. A cage is nice, but NOT necessary, and weld in's are better than bolt-ins, but don't discount a bolt in unit. Mine saved my life when I was the middle car in a three car collision. Neither caster nor camber is adjustable, but if you can afford adjustable suspension, try to get 5 degrees positive caster, zero toe, zero camber to negative 1 degree camber in the front. Zero toe and up to a degree negative camber in the rear is also a good bet.

 

Fuel injection or carburation... Knowing what I now know, I'd go FI all the way. Factory 5.0 ford stuff is dirt cheap and stuff for LT1 chevys is also readily available for cheap... I'd go that route, or you can save up for a system like the Accell DFI, or others, and I'd even consider the Holley TBI aftermarket units as they are SUPER cheap and easy to tune.

 

Cooling... Aluminum baby. That is all I can say on the subject, other than getting a high flowing water pump (Stewarts are good, as well as Edelbrock) and a GOOD electrical fan, as well as a fan shroud.

 

Rear differential... R200s are plenty strong for 300-400HP, but the axles are a major issue... Budget for CV axles, as well as Ross Courigan's CV adapters. CV axles are super strong and will allow you to survive hard launches, and provide you with the confidence a daily driver requires.

 

Wheels Wheels Wheels... The issue is bolt pattern Vs. width. One area guys are missing that Jamie Taylor has clued in on is that you can get a VERY NICE set of wheels that is the wrong pattern and have the holes re-drilled for CHEAP... Ask Jamie about his Steeda wheels that he got for cheap and had drilled for $75!!! Other than that, plan to shell out big bucks for custom wheels, or look into other alternatives such as Wheel adapters or Lug conversions.

 

Interiors can really go mild to wild, and race to last place... Choice is yours, but plan on a better set of seats. The stock seats don't provide the proper lateral support, and most are covered in vinyl. Bad Bad Bad. Once you check into re-covering your existing seats, you'll find that a pair of aftermarket seats aren't that far off. Gages are Really good add ons that are FUNCTIONAL, as well as an aftermarket wheel. Everything else is just gonna be up to your personal taste and style... Keep in mind though, the more electrical stuff you install, the larger the chance for electrical problems down the road... And electronic stuff such as power locks and windows, large amps and subs all weigh quite a bit. They take away from your performance advantage.

 

Fuel for fools... Well now we are getting into another area... Fuel depends on how you choose to go, EFI or Carb. Once you sort that out, you can buy the proper pump, cut off switch, and regulator. If your powerplant warrants it, or if you are looking for an area to upgrade later, you can swap lines to larger units, as well as installing a fuel cell...

 

Exhausts have been done many ways and folks do them for different reasons... Some guys want to hide what they have, trying to provide the sleeper mode, and others like myself have run duels out the back. My custom setup ran me $600 plus stage 8 bolts, as well as the headers I ran. The system was very well fitting, had an H-pipe and 5 flanges to allow removal of parts of the exhaust in sections. Flowmasters were a bit rough to live with, and Pete Paraska's car is MUCH quieter with his Dynomax Hemiturbos on it... I recommend a listen if you get a chance... Just remember that these cars don't have as much sound deadening on them, so you may have to work that issue if you get too loud...

 

All of these areas can be researched here on HybridZ in the VOLUMES of DATA collected over the last 2+ years, and this is certainly not the ONLY example of how it is done, but just a sample of how to provide a balanced, well thought out, MULTIpurpose machine on a fairly reasonable budget.

 

Getting a well balanced well handling, well braking car that will still run 11s in the 1/4 for less than $15,000 is VERY do-able with the above recipe. This figure also leaves some wiggle room for A/C and other additions such as new carpet, and a nice stereo... Do some research though, and figure out what best suits your budget!

 

Let the opinions NOW begin!!

Mike

[Mike C]

I keep chaning my mind... I really wanted a V8 Z when I bought my first one, but it drove so well, I sold it and bought a nicer car to drive. It had some issues and after 7 years of driving it, got my current car. I'm still not sure about the final iteration of the powertrain (bought a small journal 327 4/speed, changed my mind and got a 305 TBI and T5 changed my mind, bought turbo manifolds and turbo for the L series and a T5 changed my mind, then bought a 2.8L motor with triples, then I wound up with a pair of LT1s. I'm going to do the L28/triples for now, but think I have talked myself into the iron head LT1 I have with a carb for the Z, the fully ported aluminum head crane cammed motor will wind up with all the FI parts in my '68 Camaro.)Usually I buy complete cars and unload the rest of the parts for what I paid for the driveline so I don't have much money tied up in it. Most of the mods on my car have been suspension, driveline, interior (seats and tunes) and brakes since they work regardless of the powertrain, and the quick and easy projects you can do while driving the car are the most fun. It's good to have a plan so that what ever you do to the car works. Until you start spending money, it's cheaper to change your mind than your motor! Part of the fun is changing your mind...

[Mikelly]

Couple of other things come to mind here...We are always comparing our cars to modern technolody cars... But we miss something VERY important in our comparisons.. Safety! No airbags, doors so thin I get a shiver up my spine every time I pull a door panel, no antilock brakes, crush zones designed in the 60's... and SUPER THIN sheetmetal... Yea, our cars are ultra light compared to a lot of new muscle roaming the streets, but the fact of the matter is that a Zcar is NOT the safest car out there... We give up quite a bit of safety for that light weight... And don't bother telling me you dno't plan on crashing yours... They are called accidents...

 

I'll get back to the original post later this evening... I need to figure out how far back this rain is pushing my framing...

Mike

[Tim240z]

Mike,

I can't say that I agree with the thickness of the sheetmetal comment...have you seen how thin the sheetmetal is on new cars...if, that is, it is not plastic!

Tim

[fl327]

a good v8 package meaning a car that drives well, is fast and handles well is pretty hard to achieve, you can get two out of the three pretty easy but i think the drivability is the hardest part, a total driver out a v8 car is pretty hard to do. suspension is bolt on, motor swap is fairly easy, but get in the car and you will notice that its off if you havent addressed frame, insulation, and many other little things that will get on your nerves if you drive it every day. the drivability is what killed me about my v8z, just did not like cruising, only liked bruising. i did all the suspension, brakes, dynamatted the entire interior and tuned that dog something serious, you know what, still wasnt happy. at the end of my project i felt that there was nothing i could do further then go from scarab to jtr, which is almost as expensive as doing the swap again due to the domino effect of, "well the motors out, i might as well....."

so you know what i did, i got out of that car, and dropped a 2.95cc turbo motor and trans into my other driver, and im loving every mile. thats my experience, and after almost four years and 45k of driving and building a v8z, im happier with the turbo motor, mucb happier than i ever was with the drivability of my v8z. to do it right, it must be thought out and many things that dont really come into play into a stock z car come into play with a swapped out car, things you dont think of when changing a drivetain, and must be addressed to truly have a DRIVER, its pretty easy to make a street brawler, but lots of driving comes with its own pricetag.

[Mikelly]

Leny, Bare with me... I'm gonna address that... And for what it's worth, My V8Z was VERY drivable, so much so that I drove it in the worst taffic in our country on a regular basis, AND it hit ALL THREE of your marks. EASY to do... I'll show you how, just stay tuned...

Mike

[fl327]

you prepared yours for the swap more than the next man, and your z is not a typical v8 swap, cmon man. im sure your car is a good driver and an excellent example of a v8z car, as petes car is, but i think most fall short of those marks by varying degrees. im sure its possible, but mine never drive the way i wanted it to, im not saying its impossible, but its harder than dropping an sbc into the engine bay, you have to do more than that and its obvious the first time you hit the gas. now show me.

[dmanzo57]

I drive mine every day and I'll admit that it's not the most civilized car I could be driving. It's hard to steer, It's loud, the whole car shakes at idle, but every time I get on the freeway or drop a gear or two to pass somebody it puts a big smile on my face and makes it all worth it.

 

Don

[Guest zfan]

Oh yeah Baby!! Give me my V8Z and Im in heaven. Screw all the rest. I have been in my Dad's 500 hp Mustang, super charged Jaguar, Porsche 911t, 911, Mazda rx7 turbo and they are cool but my Z is balls to the wall better. Can't really explain except for maybe because she's mine and I built her!

 

Mike

[DavyZ]

There is something about the "unrefined nature" of an older sports car, call it "raw" or whatever, that just puts a smile on my face. Put a V8 in it and it becomes all the more enjoyable. Power windows? Nope. A/C? Not here. HP & torque? You bet! And a power to weight ratio that makes it just sick, Baby!

 

But to get back to Mike's original question, I would offer one word: BALANCE.

 

And balance, my friends, is achieved when you have a direction or at the very least, a good idea, of where you are going with the car project. A BBC in a stock Z won't work well because it lacks balance (that word again) in that the rest of the car can't stand up to the motor in braking, handling, or longevity!

 

When the rest of the car is outfitted with gear to match the powertrain, or vice versa, the fun factor soars!!

 

Just my $.02. Great topic BTW, Mike!

 

Davy

[Guest Anonymous]

I'm not sure its fair to call a V8z less than drivable. I have to disagree. Yes they have some issues, I'm still dealing with many on mine, but its because of lack of MONEY, lack of a PLAN and CUTTING CORNERS (because of lack of money and lack of time).

 

I'm a proponent of doing it all when if you have the time and money to do so, rather than taking the route I did and getting it in there and sorting it out.

 

The pluses for mine are, it handles quite well considering I'm not using much if any of the aluminum Mike mentioned (only a aluminum intake and radiator). It corners flat enough where if I want I don't have to slow down to a crawl from 35 on the average surface street, I just turn the wheel and accellerate out not any worse than any other sports car I've had the opportunity to drive. Thats with just sway bars and cheap ST springs and 8" tires all the way around. Does it push? Sure it well I'm not saying it won't, but I can fix that easily with the right foot and its totally controllable in a slide.

 

Another plus is the torque, I won't go into my motor and all that because I'm sure are sick and tired of hearing about it, but its a stocker pretty much and while I could have gotten the same power levels with a turbo 6, it'd never have the easy to manage powerband of my motor EVER. The car will run easily over 130 and with the modest toyo brakes will stop rather well at least in a panic, not racing it. Mileage taking it easy is over 24 on the road.

 

Cons? Sure, it heats up the cabin like a mo' fo', exhaust clearance is pretty low and its still heat soaking despite the ford solenoid. The rearend needs attention with a R200 (I'm not sure whats in there to be honest as the guy was going to give me another rear end when he sold it to me but couldn't find it) and the front mount is broken causing a bump bump bump noise at every clutch release. The driveline angle is less than ideal so that will need addressing as well.

 

Whats the bottom line? I still like the car. With a bit more money and time it would do everything I ask it to do as a driver. The only thing that will force me to sell and its becoming a all to possible reality is my personal life right now, lack of money, I won't go into all that as its not important to this discussion, I only point out, that unless you prepared to do THE WHOLE ENCHILADA and cover all of the weaknesses that a V8 Z could potentially have, my advice is to forget the swap unless your ok with its cons and shortcomings of not doing all of the things necessary to make it all it can be.

I love my Z, but I won't tell anyone that its a cheap swap or that if you do it cheaply that it'll be this supercar that you can roast vipers in and its just as good. Theres a reason supercars cost as much as they do, and spending way less maybe ok and you may equal the performance numbers, but you won't do it as quietly and comfortably or as luxuriously as the cars your aiming to beat.

Thats my take on it, my opinion, worth exactly what you paid for it.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

[Guest Carlissimo]

I agree with Mike. The key to a successful conversion is planning for what you want to accomplish up front. Then stick to the plan.

 

When I started my project my plan was to build an everyday driver that would be the fastest possible road car to get around on the twisty roads in Southern California (with special emphasis on destroying Porsches). I didn't want to build a "race car", and definately not a dragster.

 

So when I beefed up my suspension, I kept in mind my goal was to keep the road feel as close to the original Z as possible. I chose Bilstein struts and Nissan Stage 1 240Z racing springs. I have resisted putting large sway bars on because what they do to the ride.

 

It is real easy to get carried away with big springs and sway bars. Yes it will handle like a go cart, but it will ride like one too. For those that like the feel of a race car that is fine. For me, I am happy that my car rides better than a stock Corvette.

 

As far as engine is concerned, I didn't like the massive torque an low RPM my '67 327 had when I first put it in. It was fun to light up the tires all the time. But, after a short while I began to miss that "sports car" feel that the Z engine had. So I rebuilt the 327 to 68 Z-28 302 specs (hoping to get better higher rpm performance). I even took 10 lbs off of the flywheel. The result: I traded low end grunt for gobs of high end power. Now it revs fast and really comes alive above 4000 RPM. It's really fun to run through the gears now... kind of like a sports car. A really fast one.

 

These are just two examples of how you can completely change the character of your car depending on how you set it up. How the car rides on the road and how the engine feels can make the difference between a real fun car to drive and a real beast.

 

I am glad that while always trying to go faster, handle better, and stop faster, I have also tried to keep the drivability in my car. This is probably why I have been driving my car regularly for the past 20 years.

[denny411]

Solution; Build two cars. One well manered turbo 6 to drive on a regular basis, and a v8 monster as a stoplight viper killer It`s a hobby, just like watching sports. A second project is just like another season, and you have total control of the outcome

[Mike kZ]

Good points!, you mentioned drive line angles. Found this site a while ago it explains about it.

http://www.iedls.com/guide.html

[jeromio]

You know, I was looking at that SuperCar Shootout thing on CarAndDriver.com the other day and it got me thinking. I mean, the top 2-3 cars are really outstanding. But ALL of those cars they tested were $50K plus. Maybe $100K average. That is ALOT of dough.

 

Now if you look at the actual performance numbers that cash gets you, well, it's really disappointing. I'm not very impressed by 13sec 1/4 mile. Handling and braking are a critical consideration as well as drivability and these are reflected in the rankings.

 

Now if you look at an early Z, and you had a clear Plan as Mike suggests, what could you do with $25K as a number out of the air? What I would do would be to find a rust free shell and be willing to pay for it - say $3K to ensure a really good starting point. Strip it all down and cage it. You could create an excellent foundation for less than $5K. Then buy brake and suspension kits and bolt them on - what's that, another $3K including labor? (I think only one of those "Supercars" had adjustable suspension bits.) Tires are a problem with the Z. Fronts are not a problem, but rears - I think you'd need flares - add $1K. Wheels/tires - $3K (Some blingage is called for here). Gauges and a dash cap, harnesses and some Sparco seats, add another $3K.

 

Radiator, brake lines, hoses, exhaust, misc. add $2K. Add another $1K for various spoiler, body aero stuff. Where am I - $18K? Not too bad.

 

Now you have a T56 for $1.5k and the JTR kit for $500 and you have $5K left for a SBC crate. With all of this I think you could seriously challenge those "supercars". I don't think you can approach a Lingefelter TT C5, but having spent about $60K less, you'd be in really good shape.

 

Obviously my own project comes no where near approaching this level of planning or resource deployment. But man, if you could source several early Z shells from someplace, I really think you could set up shop. All you need is a couple articles in key magazines, notably Car And Driver and MotorTrend. I strongly believe that teenage boys sell the cars in this supercar segment. Not sure exactly how (maybe the nephews of rich ointment salesment convince their uncles to buy these expensive cars?), but any marketing plan for such a vehicle should appeal to this segment. And I think Darius is already helping you out here. That video is famous - kids all over are downloading that thing and talking about the "amazing superblown 9 million HP Z Car". With some expertise and time spent refining the package and the supplies, you could establish a nice profit margin building a car for somewhere around $25K and selling it for somewhere around $30K. And if a big chunk of that $25K was your own labor cost, you'd be making a living with a hobby!

 

Anyway, I am poor, I have no money or time. But if anyone had the desire to do something like this, maybe I could use it as my 2nd year business plan study case....

 

On another, not very related note, Someone needs to enter a HybridZ in next year's OpenTrackChallenge (or even the OneLap of No Sleep on the East Coast.)

[Tim240z]

Ya know guys, if I had made a firm plan on what I wanted to do, I would likely have never started this project...just food for thought......sometimes the only thing that keeps me going is the time and money spent to this point would be wasted if I just 'cocked' the whole thing. I have a degree in project management so I REALLY understand the importance of a plan, but in my case it has been more fun 'just winging it'

 

Tim

[Mikelly]

Well damn... You guys missed it... You notice something missing here???

 

The vast majorety of mods I outlined in the above can be transfered to each and EVERY conversion we talk about on this board. It doesn't matter WHAT powerplant you choose, which is why I didn't focus on one... Hard starting from heat soak... Happens to most of the powerplants outside of the L6Turbo conversions. Hot running motors... 10:1 compression on an L6 can cause you to re-think how you cool the motor... Weight? Most of the serious V8zguys here have built motors that weigh within less than 40# of the L6. Throw a turbo on the L6 and we are about even... THAT is a none-issue... What did I focus on above... Suspension and brakes... Something ALL our cars suffer from as factory cars, and virtually ALL of us want to upgrade to some level of improvement...

 

LENY, there is your answer... You stick ANY powerplant in the above combination of parts and you will have a VERY happy Zcar owner...

 

DaveZ, Lone and Carlissemo get gold stars... They pointed out some VERY valuable points...

 

To further prove my point... I'll be finishing car number two this coming year and it will have A/C, will be fuel injected, will likely put 500HP to the wheels, and will knock down 18MPG while I drive it to a SIGNIFICANT Zcar get together in 2004. I'll be giving rides to those doubters who think you can't build a comfortable, reliable street car... I'd mention Scottie GNZs car here, as his is the most doscile 500RWHP car I know of, but he doesn't qualify, as his is a LITTLE tiny 6 cylinder (Pun intented...!) , althought I'm sure the extra weight of the turbo and intercooler might get him close to the weight of an L6!

 

It isn't about the powerplant guys, which was the point of this thread... Its about the package!

Build it, drive it, Love it!

 

Mike

[Scottie-GNZ]

EXCELLENT THREAD!

 

Mike, you are dead on. It is the total package that counts and yes, I am happy

 

Mike's original post and some of the responses is the basis for a Z supercar recipe. I would love to see it refined and made available for all. Many others can benefit from the basic concepts but since it is missing guidance on stickers, we would be omitting a very large faction

[Guest Aaron]

It is obvious that each of us has a vision of what the perfect car should be. I think that is the essence of our hobby: build your vision. My vision is of a car that can out perform (acceleration and handling) all my other vehicles (not hard) and the majority of original cars sold today (harder). It has to have a look that is pleasing to my eye. Finally (and probably most difficult), it must provide the reliability, mileage, and creature comforts to be able to replace my daily driver should the need arise. On of my goals for the car is to one day be a “long hauler†on the Hot Rod Power Tour.

 

For example, Pete’s car has come very close to my expectations. I think his performance probably exceeds all my expectations. The look is similar to what I like (understated and classy). With his attention to details, I think the car will be plenty reliable. On the interior, we differ slightly. I am not willing to give up the interior space or aesthetics for a cage. I am also looking for power leather seats, AC, power windows, power steering, great sound system, etc. I am not sure how much of this Pete has included in his car.

 

I have been planning my project for almost a year, and I will probably plan for another year before I am able to start the project (if only I could get about 36 hrs per day). I am attempting to research every aspect of the project, so that I can have a fairly accurate budget. Obviously, I cannot plan for every fastener and vacuum hose, but the major sections of the car I hope to have well thought out.

 

The car is an 82 ZXT with T-tops. To take care of the performance, I am planning an “alternative†V8 that I should be able to get to 350-400hp, and an automatic. Suspension will get urethane bushings, springs (possibly coil-overs), struts. I am planning to upgrade the brakes with a mix of OEM parts so that I can get repair parts at any parts store in the country. To take care of the looks, I am planning to paint the car a burgundy or hunter green (I like the dark colors), with most of the trim painted the body color or black to make the car look more modern. For the reliability, the engine and management will be mostly stock, as will the transmission. I will most likely move up to the R230 for a little insurance. For comforts, I am looking at adding a tilt/telescoping column, custom dash/console/gauges, power seats, 8-speaker sound system with DVD and video. The car already has power windows, power steering, and AC, so they will be refurbished.

[Guest bluex_v1]

Well this discussion is coming just at the right time for me, as I am tearing out all the paneling and insulation to check and patch the metal underneath, I'm trying to figure out what I will want to do with the interior. Hmm..do I leave it all striped to the sheet metal with just an aluminum panel dash bolted to the roll cage, how about spraying it with a truck bedliner to keep the bare-bones look but still give it some sound and heat insulation, or do I dynamat every damn thing including the underside of the trans. tunnel and put carpet down... I know I don't want the thing to rattle like mad, but I don't mind a bare purely form-follows-function interior, engine noise, vibration, or road noise; because I would like to feel as much 'one with the machine' as possible. Excess heat from the firewall and tunnel will be a severe detractor for me though.

 

This car will be my daily driver whenever it is cold, hot, raining out, or my Bronco has sustained serious trail damage...so probably 90% of the year I will be driving it. That means it needs A/C and Heat.

I want to get 15+ mpg in town. That probably forces me into EFI (not that I mind that).

I want decent power and reliability. Of course we all know the v8 is the way to get that, right?! and EFI will help there too.

It will also still need to drive over speed bumps and up steep driveways.

It should be fun to drive on the *street*. As a general test, should be able to surpass an average mustang in acceleration, braking, and cornering. (I'm not looking for specific 1/4 times, or finishes in autox).

I can easily put 20 hours a week into it, but only about $500 a month. The blue LED washer nozzles, chrome fire extinguishers, stickers, and exhaust tips, can wait until after the car goes, stops, and turns fast.

And the most difficult goal to obtain- I want the v8 in and running reliably by next summer. At that time, I'd like to have as much set up and ready to go that I can just take a week off work to go from running L6 to running v8 (ok, let me know when all you guys are finished laughing so I can continue... )

 

My "plan" as it stands today:

Only one thing at a time...I want to have the highest drivable uptime possible throughout all the swaps, repairs, and mods I do.

Get my 260 running reliably in its current form; which includes electrical work, brakes (probably will go with early zx MC and booster for now, maybe toyota calipers if it needs it) reshoe the drums, new struts, bushings, and floor patching.

Buy a body damaged but complete drivable +/-'91 mustang 5.0&T5 donor (rebuild the 5.0 to deliver ~300 well mannered HP and put in aluminum heads if budget at the time allows). I'll carry over as much of the electrical system from the mustang as I can get away with. (Probably will rewire everything with push button starter and stupid-simple accessory toggle switches and the anti theft device will be something like locking hood pins with the coil in a steel lock box under the hood with a remote keychain relay to activate it and the starter...so it can start as I am walking up to it night-rider style...ok, so there's one unnecessary bling bling)

I really hope I can get the A/C from the mustang into the Z. --Anyone know anyone that has kept the A/C from a 5.0 swap? I haven't read a thing about this yet...maybe it means meshing 280 A/C components w/ the stang's.

EFI 280z fuel tank (This is a bolt in for a '74 260z right?)

Summit generic aluminum or griffin radiator.

Taurus junkyard fan.

Pulling slave cylinder clutch setup.

Probably iron manifolds until I can afford some ceramic coated block huggers.

Rearend--don't know about this yet..need to weigh the costs and effort between r200 w/ or aftermarket LSD, and an r230. I may just try to keep the r180 for a little while until it lets go. Also on the CV axles...since I will be running a T-5 right on the edge of its torque capacity, should I maybe keep the u-jointed axles as the weak link to protect the transmission?

Use the mustang power steering rack.

Bend a cage to tie into subframe and strut towers that does not interfere with entry and exit and has provisions for a flat panel dash to be attached.

Some escort GT seats or similar from the junkyard.

Suspension...I don't know about this yet either, but I will be waiting until after I've put some miles in it with the v8 in so I will better know how I want it to feel. I'm going to start researching this in relation to Mikelly's advice here, it makes sense to me.

New wheels and tires that are a good balance between performance and cost of replacement tires (no super low profile stuff for me...I want to be able to put new sets of rubber on for under $600)

And last, but also least in importance to me, some aero effects and new paint.

I'm sure there's plenty of stuff that will come up in between these major steps. There's nothing of great revealation here, but it helps me sort things out and see holes when I write it all down and tell someone about it.