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HybridZ

automatic or manual?


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

when i first set my mind to this swap i was all "now that i leanred to drive a stick i think its hella fun and cool so ill use a manual in the swap"...BUT JTR sounds like they kinda lean toward using an automatic in their swap. what did you guys use and how does it work for you considering performance, durability, cost, all that stuff? oh yeah i got the JTR manual in the mail today so im that much closer to getting it done heh.

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I agree with Pete, whatever floats your boat.

However, I would tend to think that the Automatic might be a slightly easier swap to perform. The reasons I say this is because the automatic swap is already well documented in the JTR book and about 99% of the transmission functionality is self contained. All you bascially need to add is a shifter.

 

A manual, on the other hand, is not as well documented on in the JTR book. Also, the clutch assembly is something you most likely need to ask a few questions about. But the good new is that many people on this board have successfully swapped a five or six speed transmission into their Z.

 

As for which to use (auto vs. manual), it's all about personal taste. I choose an automatic because I felt it would be very difficult to match the drag race ability of a well built automatic with any manual transmission. This, of course, is just my opinion... and everybody's got one!

 

Good Luck

Happy motoring

 

-Andy

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Like everyone else said, dpends on what you want to do! If you want a driver that is easy in traffic, go with the auto. If you want a canyon carver go with the manual. If you have a larger lower rpm motor, go with the auto. If you have a smaller high rpm motor, go manual. It seems that rpm are what really tears the autos up, so if you want a 7000 rpm redline, I'd run the manual trans.

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Guest Anonymous

As everyone else said, run what you like. Its kinda like wine, what do I have with this dinner, red or white, drink what you like.

I know more is mentioned in JTR's manual about the Automatic, but if you look at the two mules' Mike built both are stick cars (and one of them even one of those old 4+3 Vette trannies). Either one has they're own unique set of challenges, the automatic has the expensive proposition of the tailshaft housing (which in reality doesn't make it anywhere near as expensive as a T56 setup). The T56 is physically big, the initial buy in isn't super cheap, but its a great stick setup, same with the T5 except its alot cheaper, handles less torque, but is a fine alternative if you don't beat on it constantly.

Consider how you drive it too, if mine was a everyday driver (its a driver but not everyday for me) and I had to commute in bumper to bumper which we do see here if you leave at the wrong time, it'd be a no brainer, automatic baby. The auto will also be quicker on the strip if thats in the future of the car.

 

Just some thoughts, but it comes down to what you want, thats the whole idea behind the hybrid's, run what you want and don't worry about what others think is cool or 'right'.

 

Take care,

 

Lone

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This is a little off topic, but check out this web site for their manual tranny rebuild kits and billet countershaft stabilizer. They built the 4+3 OD units for the Corvette Challenge cars and still sell rebuilt/updated units. They make custom T5 trans for road racing jaguars and this cheap (Less than $50) mod seems to make a huge difference in durability of the trans. Also a great site to help identify domestic manual car trannys.

Gearzone Home

 

Here is a direct link to the counter gear stabilizer as it was kind of hard to find. Also check out their modded T5 jaguar trans. Super cool.

T5 stabilizer

 

[ July 27, 2001: Message edited by: Mike C ]

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True the JTR book isn';t as thorough as we'd like on the T56 swap. However if you get the TPI book it's got all the detail you need icon_rolleyes.gif I bought both icon_smile.gif If you liek a stick, do it. We can tell you what to do in order to put it in if you don't want to do an auto. Just make sure that you use a trans with an overdrive and NOT one of the manuals that have an external linkage as those can require some nasty tunnel mods. Truth be told, my T56 went in with a bare minimum of tunnel mods and I was pretty surprised. No cutting, a little banging - that's it! Clutch masterslave was easy too once I got over th eidea of tapping a piece of plastic (shiver). It looks like it's going to hold up fine!

 

It's up to you. I honestly don't think an auto would be any easier than my stick. It would probably be a bit faster and more consistant but I like to feel like I'm driving the car and I wanted the deeper overdrive too. To each his own...

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I think the one advantage that the auto (700R4) has over the stick (T5) is that it will be much less likely to break. Both are about the same money, and you'll never have to replace a clutch in the auto! The T56 is probably the strongest of the three I mentioned, but considering the purchase of the whole assembly, it may very well cost over twice as much.

 

All that said, I'm still going T5 with this car, or even T56 if I can afford it at the time.

 

Davy

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Davyz, definitely check out the gearzone page (see my post above) for their countergear stabilizer. They were breaking 5th gear in their racing jags every 30 hours of track time, and have yet to break one since developing the stabilizer. May still blow up on 6000 rpm dragstrip launches, but with a 1000# less than a 5.0 mustang, it should last a lot longer in your z.

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Mike, I can't believe I didn't thank you for the information: THANK YOU! I downloaded the info and I'll be using the kit when I purchase the T5. I don't think I can afford a T56 right now. Great info on the site and it looks as if they have found a good solution to a nagging problem.

 

Davy

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i just think that the z is too cool of a little sports car to have an auto in it, personally. theres nothing like banging gears or cruising manually, and fits the car so well. i do understand sometimes you have to go auto and it makes good sense to do so. gnx is one excellent case, you would need a lenco box or a very very very tiny shifter to be able to bang out shifts fast enough with that motor, and the autos are very consistent in the quarter. i almost need to have a stick in any car i drive, i feel i have more control over the car and theres just something about shifting for myself that makes me feel real tough. i dont know just my opinion, and its not that hard to go either way in the v8 swap as well. the only way i can see auto in a z for me is gnx swap or a crazy crazy radical bbc with a blower or two.

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I went with the TPI 700r4 with a 2000 stall

converter. My car will be road driven and

run at the strip from time to time. For me

this was the best option. But dont get me

wrong when I drive those 6 speeds I get a

real lot of driving satisfaction that an

auto just can deliver!

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Unless you have a very strong preference for one over another I strongly suggest you drive at least one of each in somewhat similar vehicles if possible. Many have never driven a 'built' automatic/nothing sluggish when it's done right. T56's are a ball of fun as well. I've experienced both in various cars/OEM and race. For my daily driving 365d/year with lots of city driving including lots of wet weather I prefer my 700R4. ~1800stall if that and 1st can shred my 245's right thru from a 750rpm idle no problem. I use a B&M shifter for 'single' shift confidence at my road racing lapping event/days.

 

If I had a LOT less pokey city driving I'd opt for a t56....if I come across a deal on one it might likely come home icon_biggrin.gif

 

My hammer shifter was a surprise Xmas present from Ann so losing that won't be easy...

 

PS never choose your components simply because one might install easier than another if they may be different in fuction. Their usually is NO easy install and although many options/choices require a lot more time and/or $ up front I've found once it's done you've got that aspect forever. Items I did 'quickly' years ago I never got to redoing till my recent EFI at which point I really tried to do all aspects very well for a long/proper and aesthetically pleasing fuction.

 

I've redone many things over the years and seen others choose options they didn't want simply due to ease of install......the time to do what you want the first time is well worth it...we'll hear that from Pete someday soon here right Pete? icon_wink.gif

 

[ July 27, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

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Guest JAMIE T

I've been going over this myself. Reading the above posts was insightful. I am thinking about an automatic becuase of the ability to pull killer holeshots without bog or severe tire spin(not that slushboxes don't spin the tires) On some drag radials, it will be hard for ANY car to cut you from a light, two clicks and your home free(if you have a "get out of jail free" card) Honest ociffer my throttle stuck!!! The row your own stickshift is a little more tempermental on launch. I haven't owned an automatic car in a long time, and consider myself a good gear banger, but I rarely get a good launch on radials in my 6 spd Z28, it either bogs or burns the tires(sticky tires and a higher launch RPM would solve that). It may be that the car is so heavy or I suck, either way its a hard car to launch. I love to down shift on the interstate to pass traffic or push the clutch and rev the engine for near by posers. My favorite is double clutching first gear and layin' rubba through third. Theres just something about being able to draw smoke off the tires after your already rolling icon_wink.gif Anyway, I haven't decided yet either, but if the Z28(Big Z) happens to loan its T56 to the 240Z(Little Z) that will be OK with me(Big J)

 

Jamie

Big Z

Little Z

Deahstar Z

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If someone is building a car that they really want to do a bunch of drag racing in, I'd say do the auto.

 

Ditto on using it for alot of stop and go driving. I used to commute in a horrible stretch of road (North-West quadrant of the Wash D.C. beltway in afternoon rush hour - 1+ hour of stop and go - hundreds of clutch cycles on the worst days - did that for many years in my Eclipse GSX and Maxima 5spd.)

 

Otherwise, I'd go with the stick.

 

Oh yeah. Jamie, the Z28 is a big heavy car compared to the 240Z. In my opinion, the only easier car to control in all aspects that I've driven over the 240Z is the Miata. Lots of torque and a stick in the Z is actually a heck of alot of fun, from the several drives I've had in V8Zs. The Z just has that tossable quality about it that gives you a level of control over the 4 contact patches that the late model Z28 will never obtain. I think it's that the Z28 is heavy, more than your driving. Take your Z out in the rain and try some powerslides with the 6 cylinder - you'll feel like a professional rally race driver with the control you'll have sliding around like that in the 240Z! Try the same thing in the Z28 and it'll probably get wrapped around a light pole or something.

 

If I were to do a auto, it'd have to have a manual valve body.

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