jkgts1 Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 So, I know there are plans for a puller, but I don't think it will help. Anyway I decided to use a saw and separated the spindle from the control arms. I then pressed the cut spindle out with a 12 ton press, no issues with the first one. The second one is a different story, the pin will not budge. I have soaked it with lube for the past three weeks, and no go. I have also tried pounding it with a 2.5 lb sledge hammer, hoping to brake the rust loose, but no go. So, I was going to take it to a shop to have them press it out, hopefully they have a much larger press than I do. Who would have such a press? All I can think of is machine shop, but the few that I have called said they don't do that. Any ideas? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 Try putting it back in the press, put a big load on it, and then whack it with a hammer. Also, try an air hammer. At this point you need to induce a lot of vibration while there's a load on the pin to break the corrosion loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted November 27, 2009 Share Posted November 27, 2009 I used a 25 ton press to free the cut spindle pin bits from one of my control arms. It sounded like a gun going off when things stated to move. I used short cut bolts to push the pins out. Keep at it. Remember to wear safety shields as things can go wrong quickly. Once you've cleared the pin pieces do a through cleaning of the strut housing and LCA to remove all corrosion. I coated my pins, strut housing and LCA in a copper based anti-sieze to ensure the new pins would come out at a later date. DO NOT drive the lock pins back in until they bottom out. They only need to keep the spindle pin from rotating when tightening the outer nuts. There are plenty of posts about pin removal and replacement. Take time to read these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkgts1 Posted November 27, 2009 Author Share Posted November 27, 2009 Thanks for the suggestions, I'll keep trying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtburf Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 You might end up having to have them burnt out with a plunge EDM (Electrical Discharge Machine) if so google Tool and Die shops in your area. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Empire Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 yeah I tried John C's approach by using the airhammer and 3/8's pin but no luck. Penetrating oil and heat from a torch didn't help. Finally broke out the sawzall and cut em all off. My car is from here in Ontario, so maybe we just get more rust haha. BTW, went to Nissan and they said the spindle pins are not around anymore and I'm SOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70 Cam Guy Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 Motorsport sells the spindle pin and related items http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SSSC01C02 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SSSC01C02/23-4240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jkgts1 Posted December 3, 2009 Author Share Posted December 3, 2009 Yeah, I've tried just about everything in my power to get this last pin out. I just have to take it to a shop and see what they can do. Empire, I have a set from MSA, 2 spindles, 4 nuts, 4 bushings, 4 washers. I paid about $110 + shipping for them. Are you interested in the set for $90 + shipping. I am just going with aftermarket control arms. Email me if you are interested. jkgts123@hotmail.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nsm0l3m4n Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 My car is from here in Ontario, so maybe we just get more rust haha. BTW, went to Nissan and they said the spindle pins are not around anymore and I'm SOL. You will find that a few people, myself included, have used 5/8" x 10" long bolts and nylock nuts to replace the spindle pins. They are a very close fit and should be a little cheaper than new spindle pins from MSA. Just be sure theyre both grade 8. I coated the bolt thoroughly in anti-seize before I pushed it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Empire Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 Thanks for the tip. I'll most likely do that. Not really wanting to have to pay $100 for two pins and have them shipped from the states. Thanks for the offer though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70 Cam Guy Posted December 3, 2009 Share Posted December 3, 2009 You will find that a few people, myself included, have used 5/8" x 10" long bolts and nylock nuts to replace the spindle pins. They are a very close fit and should be a little cheaper than new spindle pins from MSA. Just be sure theyre both grade 8. I coated the bolt thoroughly in anti-seize before I pushed it in. Thanks for the tip, I'll definitely look into that since I'm also working on my coilovers and need to take apart the rear still. Threads on one pin are already no good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldazguy Posted December 7, 2009 Share Posted December 7, 2009 It's great to live in the desert and own a car that's spent it's 35 years here. I just removed my spindle pins - no problem! They're clean (even have the cadmium plating intact) and ready to be reinstalled. Please don't hate me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tank Posted December 8, 2009 Share Posted December 8, 2009 It's great to live in the desert and own a car that's spent it's 35 years here. I just removed my spindle pins - no problem! They're clean (even have the cadmium plating intact) and ready to be reinstalled. Please don't hate me. wow, i can't help but hate you . I have already ruined one pin and still don't have it out. And haven't attempted the other yet. But on another note the front coilover swap is almost complete! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70 Cam Guy Posted December 9, 2009 Share Posted December 9, 2009 You will find that a few people, myself included, have used 5/8" x 10" long bolts and nylock nuts to replace the spindle pins. They are a very close fit and should be a little cheaper than new spindle pins from MSA. Just be sure theyre both grade 8. I coated the bolt thoroughly in anti-seize before I pushed it in. It sounds like it's a good fit but do you have any concerns due to fit of the bolt (any looseness)? any premature wear possibilities? I am also liking this idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplyedmind Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 Man i wish i would have saw this before i use a hammer and Stakes to take my spindle pins out , and it took hours . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nsm0l3m4n Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 It sounds like it's a good fit but do you have any concerns due to fit of the bolt (any looseness)? any premature wear possibilities? I am also liking this ideaThe bolts when I fitted them in were a very snug fit, no looseness at all. The nylock nut should prevent most, if not all, of the loosening. I actually just took out one of the bolts yesterday. I drove on the bolts all summer, including about 10 autox events and this one came out fine with no visible signs of wear. In regard to the strength of the 5/8" bolt. Doesnt the stock spindle pin step down from a roughly 5/8" diameter to something like 10 mm or less on the threaded portions? If so I think these are areas of increased stress concentration and would make the 5/8" bolt much stronger overall... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70 Cam Guy Posted December 16, 2009 Share Posted December 16, 2009 The bolts when I fitted them in were a very snug fit, no looseness at all. The nylock nut should prevent most, if not all, of the loosening. I actually just took out one of the bolts yesterday. I drove on the bolts all summer, including about 10 autox events and this one came out fine with no visible signs of wear. In regard to the strength of the 5/8" bolt. Doesnt the stock spindle pin step down from a roughly 5/8" diameter to something like 10 mm or less on the threaded portions? If so I think these are areas of increased stress concentration and would make the 5/8" bolt much stronger overall... Thanks, I was wondering about the fit of the bolt and spindle, and you answered that too. Proper torque and fasteners (nylock nut or locking nut) should prevent most issues. I think I'll be going this route too, sounds like a great fit. You are right, the stock pin does step down for the threads, they're M12. My main concern was the fit of the 5/8 bolt... mostly about oblonging the hole if the bolt is too loose in the hole. Your answer was really what I was looking even if my question sucked, much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damianofhouston Posted April 11, 2010 Share Posted April 11, 2010 Just to add a bit of information...I was reading another thread on spindle pins awhile back (can't find it now) that mentioned shear strength of bolts and if there was risk of failure using Grade 5 or 8 hardware (the 10"x5/8" replacements that others are talking about above) instead of stock or MSA hardware: The shear strength of this particular bolt: 91000*Pi*(5/16)^2 = 27,000 lbs 91K is lbs/sq in of shear strength. 5/16 is radius of 5/8 bolt. Seeing as the load on this bolt is fairly direct in line with the force (right inside the tire) and not being multiplied by some greater ratio, I'm no longer worried about using a $10 bolt and nut from the hardware store Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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