sayitaintjonas Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 Well, I just got my first Z. It is a 76 280Z with 185,000 miles and looks like it has been partially restored. I've been driving it around town and noticed a substantial loss in power after taking it to the gas station for the second time. Going from 0-30mph took over 10 seconds and going up hills was painful. I took some advice and replaced the fuel filter and gave it some fuel injection cleaner, but the problem persisted throughout the day. I downloaded the EFI bible last night along with the factory manuals and planned out some tests for the car. This morning when I checked the continuity between each of the fuel injector contacts and they all checked out. I looked at the plugs and found they were all pretty fouled and somewhat wet. Then, I noticed that the car wouldn't start. The engine will turnover, but won't run. I replaced the spark plugs, but it didn't help. I can hear the fuel pump (its loud) I tested the plugs outside the engine and I'm getting a spark. I started testing the ECU as outlined in the EFI bible and found a couple interesting things. I'm not getting continuity from the airflow meter, water temp sensor, or air regulator Pin 1 is getting 12v I'm getting varying voltages to my injectors (between 0 - 11.6v) I know that is a lot of information, but I'm stumped and I want to be as thorough as possible. So, could my sudden loss in power have contributed to the engine not starting? What should I look at next? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 It could possibly be your AFM. I have a spare one and I live in Columbia if you have the desire to pick it up to try it out. Mine is from an 83 so you might need to send me a pick of the plug so I can compare it with the one I have. Also, have you cheked your fuel pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayitaintjonas Posted November 30, 2009 Author Share Posted November 30, 2009 I'll try and take the AFM off my car when I get home this afternoon and send you a picture. Thanks for the offer! I was planning on checking the fuel pressure, but I haven't found out the best way to do it just yet. Should I install a gauge permanently or just use a testing kit? If you can't tell, I'm still new to working on cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted November 30, 2009 Share Posted November 30, 2009 It's all good man. This will be a BIG learing curve for you. Get a test kit and put it between your filter and fuel rail. You should get something like 32psi at idle. BTW I also have a complete fuel rail with slightly larger injectors(they have about 10k miles on them) and a ZX fuel pump all in good working order for sale. Hope all of this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayitaintjonas Posted December 1, 2009 Author Share Posted December 1, 2009 I borrowed a friends test kit and installed it between the fuel pump and rail as you said. I get about 36 psi with the ignition on. So I guess that rules out the fuel pump and the fuel pressure regulator? Here is my AFM plug with 7 pins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 Sorry man, but mine is a five pin. I'm sure someone has one here that would be willing to sell one cheap. I wish I could tell you what pins you could jump to give the ECU a false idle signal to try and rule out the AFM. Good Luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrel Posted December 1, 2009 Share Posted December 1, 2009 check the wires going to the thermotine sensor. Most likely they will be coroded and possibly broken near or at the sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayitaintjonas Posted December 2, 2009 Author Share Posted December 2, 2009 check the wires going to the thermotine sensor. Most likely they will be coroded and possibly broken near or at the sensor. I checked the thermotime harness and the connection between the harness and the ecu harness and both were fine. I static tested the resistance between the switch and switch body and only got 52ohms when it should've been 70-86ohms. I guess that means my switch is bad? Also, it looks like my water temperature switch and air temperature switches are also reading the wrong resistance. What is the likelyhood that all these sensors have gone bad? The car was running, albeit poorly, just last week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 185k, it happens. Hopfully this may be your problem. Good luck;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeinCA Posted December 2, 2009 Share Posted December 2, 2009 You also may want to try moving the flap in the afm manually back and forth a few time, and see how much drag there is. I had afms get sticky, and they control the fuel, and when they stick limit the air. and if they stick closed, it wont start. Wont hurt to try it. Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayitaintjonas Posted December 2, 2009 Author Share Posted December 2, 2009 You also may want to try moving the flap in the afm manually back and forth a few time, and see how much drag there is. I had afms get sticky, and they control the fuel, and when they stick limit the air. and if they stick closed, it wont start. Wont hurt to try it. Joe The flap moves pretty easily, but while testing I noticed that it never fully closes. It stays open just enough to offer open the potentiometer. Also, I'm not getting the correct resistance from the air temp sensor. Thanks for the advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayitaintjonas Posted December 14, 2009 Author Share Posted December 14, 2009 I got it running the other day. Turns out an injector was stuck. I quickly connected a 9v battery to each of my injectors and the car started. Then, I found that 2 of m other injectors weren't firing because the terminals were corroded. I cleaned them up and now all six are firing. Next, I think I'm going to buy this 200cc reconditioned injector set, http://osidetiger.com/reconditionedinjectors.aspx and swap everything out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Good job man! Glad to hear you found out the problem. So whats next for it after the injectors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sayitaintjonas Posted December 14, 2009 Author Share Posted December 14, 2009 Well, I was going to rush out and buy a L28ET engine in Georgia, but I think I'll do the more responsible thing and replace the suspension and bushings next. I've still got a lot of research to do before I buy anything though. I'll eventually install and air damn/spoiler/zg flares, 240 bumpers, and new wheels. Like you said, there is a bit of a learning curve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted December 14, 2009 Share Posted December 14, 2009 Well when you get to the TURBO motor part of your build, give me a shout and I can give you some pointers and answer as many questions as you need. Maybe I could even lend a hand with some things. BTW, the car looks amazing. Theres something about a white Z....... Good luck! Keep me posted. EDIT: And I would deffinately get the suspension and brakes working good before an engine swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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