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HybridZ

Megasquirt...hell...


jacob80

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I'm by far no Megasquirt master as I'm currently working through issues on a 911 install. But using a wideband to try and get your car running? Just take it out before it gets ruined. Reserve the wideband for when it's running ok and you need to fine tune.

 

You need to go through the basics.

 

Engines require fuel, air, spark to run.

Confirm you are getting fuel first. Fuel pump is working correctly, pressure is ok, don't have a clogged filter, etc.

Confirm you are getting air (make sure you tb is open enough to allow air to get the car to idle)

Spark, pull a plug, lay it on the valve cover and turn it over. Confirm the plug is firing a good clean spark when it is supposed to. If your timing is off then your never going to fire the car.

 

When first trying to get my Z running I was firing during the exhaust stroke, make sure your sparking when fuel is actually in the cylinder being compressed. (simple but easy to overlook)

 

If you have all three of those, it's just a matter of doing a calculated VE table using the computer and setting up the initial settings via calculations.

 

Another simple thing is to check your vacumn lines. I spent 3 nights beating myself up trying to start my car before I realized I had a check valve on the wrong way on a line, allowed me to start the car but as soon as I gave it gas it would die and wouldn't want to start again. (simple stupid mistakes)

 

Best of Luck!

-Ed

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Yeah I'm definitely going to try and start at the very basics when I get home. Could it be that I'm having starting issues because it is cold and I have only a 5 degree advance during cranking? I wouldn't think so but at this point...who knows! Regardless of rich or lean, the car should start momentarily then die, correct? Thanks for all the help guys, appreciate everything.

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Oh trust me, I have been using a timing light guys.

 

Well you're obviously doing something wrong.

 

If you are not going to try what we suggest, why are you asking for help?

 

This is from that thread I posted:

 

Are you using the '83 dizzy?

 

Try rotating it all the way counter clockwise and using a 55deg trigger angle with 6.0, 3.5, and .1 for dwell settings, I got those from the megamanual. This is what I'm using and the car fires right up. Here's my msq, it only goes up to 100kpa so don't drive it without changing the ve and spark table(if it works).

 

You can play around with the trigger angle [+ or - some] to try to dial it in if it is really close to starting or is idling rough.

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Just went out and pulled a plug from a different car that runs and tried it....no spark whatsoever now. I did just put a new head gasket in so maybe when I was putting the distributor back in I fouled the wiring somehow.....ughhh......I doubt it, but its a possibility, of course.

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UPDATE: Okay, my spark LED17 (D14) FUNTION light which is set to spark output A is now on constantly. What does this mean? I am getting no spark as of right now with that light constantly on. Is it a bad coil? Bad spark plug wires? Bad coil wires? I'm at a loss right now. It sure as hell is getting fuel, thats for sure.

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A few things:

 

- Did you follow Moby's recommended steps in post 10? If not, stop and get these settings correct. Your black plugs are not surprising if you're using someone else's tables from stock injectors with your 440's.

- Ed is correct: at this stage pull the O2 sensor before you destroy it from the excessive richness. I killed my first one exactly that way. At the stage you're at, you don't need it yet.

- You're not going to want to hear this, but I think you have a lot of MS reading to do in order to tune intelligently. Right now you're guessing/hoping that you can just get it up and running and then figure it out on the fly. As anyone else who's been through their first MS install will tell you, that's a recipe for frustration. MS has a rather steep learning curve at first, but if you study up on the theory BEFORE, you're a lot more likely to avoid making silly mistakes in configuration that cause you fits in getting it started like you're seeing now.

- Another suggestion you may not want to hear: before you invest any more time on MS1, spend the $60 (IIRC) and upgrade to the MSII processor. MS2/Extra is light years ahead of MSnSe in terms of capabilities, features, etc. And unfortunately the way fuel is calculated is different enough in MSII/E that you'll pretty much have to start over. Again, ask me how I know :)

 

Good luck and stay with it. It's worth it!

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It seems that I have gone through the mega manual multiple times and I do believe I know the basic algorithms behind it. I have now established that my problem is getting no spark. The car is getting fuel, no problemo, but now I'm trying to fumble with this spark problem. As far as the triggering goes, we're using an 83 dizzy with the internal CAS (as all of them have). What could be causing the light to stay on constantly? Thank you for all of your help guys. I really appreciate it.

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There are 3 ways IIRC to wire up the ignition input circuit on the MS3.0 board. I'm not at home this week so can't check my notes for how I did it (I'm running a turbo CAS as well) but I believe one of them was for an opto isolator input, and that's the one you want. If you don't have it wired for the correct type of trigger, you're never going to get spark. If others haven't given you the answer by then, I can check late Friday when I'm home.

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Okay, I'll attempt to post it tonight. For some reason, every times I go to pull the msq file, it's not there, it only shows up within megatune. Very odd if you ask me. As far as spark, we have run the car like this, the car has ran decent up until now, so I'm not sure what the he'll is going on. It seems like I had a spark ossiue awhile back where I had no spark for a while, but then it magically came back.

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