jacob80 Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Hey guys! We have swapped in an L28ET and have been having starting issues. Here us what happens: i put the car on a charger all night to trickle charge, just to make sure the battery is fully charged and not an issue. I go out to start it the following evening and all that happens is the solenoid clicks. This happens also when I use a screwdriver on the starter to bridge the connection on the starter, i'm pretty damn sure it's the solenoid that is clicking. We did install the starter relay mod but it still has the issue. After this happens, I put the charger on 50amp engine start mode and wait about 5 to 10 minutes. I go back out and it turns over to start, but sometimes, if it doesn't start and I let it regroup and attempt again, it will just click once, it never clicks multiple times. What could this be??? Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Starter could be going. I have a similar problem, sometimes it clicks(once per key turn) but doesn't turn over, generally I just keep trying and it starts fine once the starter decides to turn. Mine is a new starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stravi757 Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 So are you saying that if you charge the battery it will start, but if you charge the battery and leave it for a few hours it wont. It could be the starter, or maybe the battery is bad, or maybe you have a constant draw and the battery is going bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 It's so random, very hard telling what is going on. Say, for example, one time I was doing a compression test with the battery charger on the battery. I got through all cylinders but one and it just didn't want to crank, just "click," very annoying. Once, I was at a cruise and I killed it and low and behold, it wouldn't start so I had to pushstart :/ where do I begin diagnostics? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger.svoboda Posted February 3, 2010 Share Posted February 3, 2010 Check your battery cables for a start. no corrosion either end. no one size fit all clamp on terminals. Get the battery load tested to be sure it is fully functional - free most places. Battery terminals are tight not just pushed on. Ground bolt tight and starter nut tight. If all that is good then your starter is having issues. next time it happens rap the starter lightly with a ball peen hammer. if it works after that you definitely have starter issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 3, 2010 Author Share Posted February 3, 2010 It states "do not strike with hammer" lol. This is a brand new Bosch gear reduction starter, it seems to me like more of a power issue to the starter. When I hold the key to crank, no lights dim or anything, so I'm not sure it's the battery because you would think that everything would dim when I turned the key if I had low voltage from the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 I had a similar problem with my 260z when it had the L26 and auto trans. It would click and the starter wouldnt turn over. I would have to repeatedly try it untill it would finely engauge. I always had a sneaking suspsion that it was my neutral safety switch. After the L28 swap i looped the neutral saftey switch with a jumper, and a few other connections. Now it starts every time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 Mine is a 73 240z...I have never heard of them having a neutral safety switch, also, I believe it has always had a manual transmission. Can someone tell me if these cars had a neutral safety switch? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger.svoboda Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 well if you think you got power to the starter issues then like I said prove out your battery cables. the amps don't just jump to the starter thru the air. needs a complete circuit positive to solenoid to the starter thru the starter and back to the battery via ground strap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 If its been a manuel all its life then it doesnt have the neutral safety switch circuit. Another thing that could have also been throwing me for a loop is the seat belt interlock system, but Im not sure if the 240z has this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 Not so; it could have a neutral safety switch. he'll need to get up under it and look, it will be a switch near the shifter on the passenger side of the transmission. Or, check under the passenger seat for the relay that resides there; sometimes it can cause a problem too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 There is some kind of plastics switch piece I discovered which is located on the floor under seat. dos this have something to do with starting? Maybe this is the switch your talking about, it's like a big pedal looking thing made out of black plastic, it was just laying under the passenger seat, very odd... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leftover z Posted February 4, 2010 Share Posted February 4, 2010 If it's under the passenger seat, it probably has to do with the seat belt warning system... or it's the ECU for your ejection seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 4, 2010 Author Share Posted February 4, 2010 Ha ha! But where is this relay you speak of under the passenger seat? I have seen no suh thing, and my interior is, well, there is no interior. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted February 10, 2010 Share Posted February 10, 2010 You said you did the starter relay mod. I take this to mean that you have a relay being triggered by your key switch that switches current from your battery, through a fuse, and into the solenoid terminal on your starter. I presume this wiring is done and done well, the fuse is of adequate size and is not blown, and this modification has been tested as fully functional. In other words, you reliably get battery voltage at the solenoid terminal every time you flip the key to start, right? If that is the case, then no neutral safety switch is involved. If, somehow, the signal is being interrupted between the key and the relay, then you should be able to hotwire your relay (send 12VDC down the wire that normally comes from your key switch) and get perfect function. You said it was a new Bosch gear reduction starter.. New usually means remanufactured. I would not hesitate to smack it with a ball-peen hammer. The day I hesitate to smack a misbehaving starter is the day you can push me off a cliff. I also have lost all faith in all "remanufactures," and I am not the only one, so don't trust it implicitly. But let's assume it is not the culprit. If the starter is good and the relay is working right, then the problem must lie in your battery or cables. Cables CAN be too long, and they can be worn out and not look it. How much cable-wiggling have you done when the starter was in failure mode? Have you tried a different battery in the car altogether? Have you tried the battery in another car? Two new cables should cost around 20-30 bucks, and it is the most important part on your car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 10, 2010 Author Share Posted February 10, 2010 I have not confirmed that I am getting at least 12v to the solenoid when the problem occurs, I will confirm that tonight. Just to be clear, if I use a multimeter and measure the dc voltage at the positive side of the solenoid while the key is in the cranking position, it should be at minimum 12v, correct? I will test that tonight. Thanks for the great response! Also, this problem will happen even when I have my battery charger on the battery in the "50 amp engine start" mode. The starter has never been sluggish, ever, it either works great or it will just click. There is a click when I turn the key and a click when I let go of the key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Check the ignition switch. I have two that the stops in them are worn or bent, and you can turn the key far enough to engage, and then disengage the starting position. Same symptoms, click-on as the solenoid almost has enough time to close, then click-off because you never let it hit the starting switch contacts long enough. It's a long shot, but it's not a hard fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 11, 2010 Author Share Posted February 11, 2010 I'm a little cobfused...how do I test the ignition switch? When you refer to the, are you talking about the actual switch the key is inserted in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 Yes, it is mounted on the back of the lock cylinder with two screws. look at where the wiring harness plugs into the ignition, and you'll find two screws. Unscrew them, DON'T LOSE THEM, because they're tiny. you will now be holding the ignition switch, sans lock cylinder, and you will only need a screwdriver to start the car. This is the portion that you'd replace, if it was bad. As far as testing, I just kept swapping it with other switches that I had on hand; I had about a dozen that came in my Z. When i found one that worked the best, i put that one in and was done. Not much help on how to test it, but it's pretty easy to get in and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leftover z Posted February 11, 2010 Share Posted February 11, 2010 I had the same problem on my '77. Replaced the starter, and it was good to go, for about a month. I'm on my 3rd starter now, which has been good for over 2 years. It was the solenoid. One out of 3 are crap. You could have a bad solenoid, even if it is new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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