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Shaving rear, wondering how much bondo is acceptable?


icapture

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I have decided to fill in the holes in the rear from where the bumper shocks went. I have started fitting pieces of sheet metal in the holes, but there are two little indentations back there. I dont have a picture, I can get one tomorrow. But I was curious if I should fab up a piece of sheet metal for it, or just fill it in with bondo. Its not horribly deep, but this is my first time doing body work, and i am just wondering what an appropriate amount of bond is - in terms of depth. 1"? 1/2"? 1/8"? even less?

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Definitely fab up metal and weld if you have the means to do so.'

 

I ended up filling the indents in the rear panel with body filler. I wish I had welded but had no access to a welder or anyone who could do it for me apart from taking it to a shop.

 

Although I would do it differently If i had the means to again, I'm happy with how it turned out, and havn't had any cracking or problems with it after 4 years.

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While welding in metal plugs would be best, you could cover and float in the whole section with a few sheets of fiberglass also. I had thought about the fiberglass sheet option for those who might like the ability to break it back down and mount bumpers back up later.

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DarthZ, man talk about going from zero to hero in the second to last and last pic. Great looking car man.

 

JandJdragracing, thanks for the pics man that helps a lot. Its nice seeing pics like that, just reassures me to do this.

 

BTW these were the indents I was talking about. Question though, if I would like to mount a 240z bumper on this thing sometime in the near future would it be a bad idea to fill these indentations? Isn't this where the bumper mounts are on the 240z?

 

shavedrear.jpg

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  • 4 months later...

I'll post what I did with my 62 VW van in the rockers to patch some major holes. It was all done using bondo products and it's all holding up 9 years later. Granted my van doesn't see high hp or body flex and such but with good metal prep and a good paint job no bubling or recurring rust in the patches. I used a mixture of fiberglass sheets an epoxy, bondo glass and bondo body filler(new a dynatron exec who got it all for us for free). Anyhow I would cut out the offensive cancer clean up surrounding metal and rough up the edges. Then I would put this sticky swiss cheese type fiber sheet across the hole and spread bondo glass over that. get it smooth with the flexible spade then sand smooth after all said and done. The bondoglass and the supportive sheet set up well enough to be enough structure for my concerns. The biggest hole I did was about the size of the larger oval shaped hole in the bumper.

 

Well, I have to start paying closer attention to posting dates instead of getting caught up in the read

Edited by emeraldlion
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I can't understand this fixation on bondo, which is a moisture absorbent polyester filler, by those who do such good work and then want to use a cheap arse rubbish polyester filler. Crying out loud, go marine, use a epoxy based filler with glass balloons which is light and moisture proof and which you can fill with integrity as deep as you like.

 

Thats my little rant, once and for all, do it right and get over this bondo fixation. Body shops use it because insurance companys won't pay for quality.

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I used bondo because it was free and I didn't know any better then. It has held up pretty well, but given an alternative that is not porous, is more flexible I would have used it. After the bondo work we used an etching primer, sealing primer, two coat two tone with ppg and a clear So I don't know if it is the quality paint or prep work that has helped it hold up so long. I agree with everyone that says use a marine type

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