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SDS Hall sensor


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I live in Medford Oregon and just hoping some one on this site lives near by and has a SDS system on their car and would be welling to help with setting the hall sensor so that both well read. I don't seem to be able to get it to stay in place. I can get them to read but when I tighten it up ,it moves and it go back to not reading. ken 541-821-1756

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sorry no help here, i am starting a SDS installation myself in this up coming weeks. will post some pictures as i go forward. please post some help and info on your install also as it may help others. i am having a hard time getting my crank damper off to do the magnets. how hard was your to remove, and how did you do it? thank you

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I dont know if this is your problem. But, I found that when I spun my motor over by hand the controller would 'show/read' the magnets. Then, if I uesd the starter to turn over the motor the controller would not 'see' the magnets. Tho this was not correct, because the controller just could not refreash fast enogh and it really was reading the magnet. My point is you may have to just put everything together and give it a go. I found that if the gap is tight and the magnets are 'close' to were they should be then you can get it started, then change the values in the controller to work. Also, call SDS they were great with helping me, I called them for weeks. I hope this helps.

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Follow the SDS info on their site. Mount the sensor firmly. I fabbed an aluminum bracket that uses 2 of the front cover bolts. I don't have any pictures handy. Set the gap to their specs. Hopefully your magnets are close to equal in height. I think I used some feeler gauges to get it close. Like the above posts, you will not "see" the magnet very well when cranking and engine is running. It will only show as seen every few revolutions or so. It should show as seen when rotating by hand.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Get a feeler gauge and try and get around 2mm clearance from the magnets. Be sure your bracket is tight and that both sensors will read "Seen" when u crank it over by hand. Set your fuel values for start up as instructed in the SDS manual, set the magnet position to 80 deg for a starting point, set your timing to 10 deg, and have the fuel knob ready. If u have all of these things set and still no start u will need to look a little closer at your magnets. I have done 4 of these EM4-6f installs now and the hall effect sensors are more forgiving than expected.

Post up and let us know if you can figure it out...

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Still gotta stuck bolt? If you don't have the radiator pulled and an impact gun there is another solution. Place a 1/2" breaker bar with a 6 point socket on the bolt head. Add a length of heavy pipe to the breaker bar (if the breaker bar is long enough) so the pipe rest on the driver's side frame rail. With gloves, hold on to this setup and have someone 'bump' the starter (avoid pinch points!). Just 'bump' the starter as you're not trying to start the car! That should break the bolt free. You'll need to use a puller to remove the damper properly. I'm all for getting the radiator out of the way so you can work freely and not worry about punching a hole.

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thanks for the advice, will try it with the radiator removed. hope to work on it this weekend.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Still gotta stuck bolt? If you don't have the radiator pulled and an impact gun there is another solution. Place a 1/2" breaker bar with a 6 point socket on the bolt head. Add a length of heavy pipe to the breaker bar (if the breaker bar is long enough) so the pipe rest on the driver's side frame rail. With gloves, hold on to this setup and have someone 'bump' the starter (avoid pinch points!). Just 'bump' the starter as you're not trying to start the car! That should break the bolt free. You'll need to use a puller to remove the damper properly. I'm all for getting the radiator out of the way so you can work freely and not worry about punching a hole.

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