Apollyon12 Posted April 5, 2010 Share Posted April 5, 2010 So what you are saying is that the form, fit and function of the S&W cage is not satisfatory. And required a good bit of modifying to get to fit properly. Unless you have the ability to do some fabrication, stay away from this kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rx8ss Posted April 5, 2010 Author Share Posted April 5, 2010 So what you are saying is that the form, fit and function of the S&W cage is not satisfatory. And required a good bit of modifying to get to fit properly. Unless you have the ability to do some fabrication, stay away from this kit? No not really. The kit was for a 240z and there are some differences in the structure of the car. The kit is very doable, just not for the basic tooled person. Unless you have some mad fabing skills and lots of time. I would not recomend trying this. As for putting in a 240z where is belongs, it would have more than likely went a lot easier. I do not regret doing it, I would do it again if I needed to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rx8ss Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 More progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 I'm not liking how far away the main hoop is from the side of the car with that cage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rx8ss Posted April 6, 2010 Author Share Posted April 6, 2010 I'm not liking how far away the main hoop is from the side of the car with that cage. That is why I am not recomending using this idea of using the 240z cage in a 280z. It is not an exact fit. Jegs has listings for some cages but I do not know anything about them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 That is why I am not recomending using this idea of using the 240z cage in a 280z. It is not an exact fit. Jegs has listings for some cages but I do not know anything about them. It's not that it was designed for a 240z, but that its just a cheap poorly thought out main hoop, meant to be sold to people who don't know better. (not trying to insult you, but it is, what it is) the 24/6/80z coupes are all the same dimensionally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Two80z4me Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 It's not that it was designed for a 240z, but that its just a cheap poorly thought out main hoop, meant to be sold to people who don't know better. (not trying to insult you, but it is, what it is) the 24/6/80z coupes are all the same dimensionally. +1 Just reinforcing my earlier comments on having a shop build one to correct safety and driver specifications Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted April 6, 2010 Share Posted April 6, 2010 Also it helps to have the roll bar attach to the frame in the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rx8ss Posted April 7, 2010 Author Share Posted April 7, 2010 (edited) Also it helps to have the roll bar attach to the frame in the back. The main hoop is connected to the main rails as well as the seatbelt boxes. And as far as I can tell the seatbelt boxes are part of the structure that the outer rear subframe is connected to. The short inner bars that go behind the seat to the tunnel are connected to the inner subframe mounts. The rear bars are at a slight angle because of the towers and the pads are welded to the chassis channel that go to the rear mustache bar. The door bars are connected to the front frame rail. The only change I am going to make is I am going to add a piece of flat steel from the front pads over to the tunnel where the under carraige support runs along the tunnel for added overall stiffness. For what money was spent, I got what I paid for. As I said and others also, spend the money and have one built for the car for a much safer and better looking bar. Edited April 7, 2010 by rx8ss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ModernS30 Posted April 7, 2010 Share Posted April 7, 2010 I think he means like going to the strut towers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zdan Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 Yeah the rear bars shoudl not extended past the rear wheel wells. although its too late now, im sure itll still pass tech but next time brace the cage to the strut towers. you can still run a bar from the main hoop to the front of the strut towers for some rigidity increase. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rx8ss Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 How about if I connect the bars to the tower where they go by them. They are very close to the towers. Would I gain anything? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pegg Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 (edited) I went ahead and ordered the S&W 8 point for the 240z. We shall see if I can get it to fit in the 280z since it does not look as though anyone has tried this before. Did you have any issues with the S&W cage? My roll bar seems to wide 48" and the top hoop is 38"w not 40"w lke the pdf they sent stated. Do you have a pdf you can send? bobpegg0@gmail.com Thanks Edited February 12, 2012 by pegg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 The last time I did my cage, like 1 yr ago, I thought drag cages had to be extended back pass the struts? Not that I'm going to drag or try and pass tech inspection, just curious. I have the Jegs in mine, not much different from yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharaohabq Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 How far behind the seats should the hoop be? I drive w/ the seat all the way back (6'5" guy) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stillnotdone Posted July 31, 2014 Share Posted July 31, 2014 I def didn't see this thread but I am in a part of the country that makes it difficult to get to a fab shop. I was already planning on modding my s&w tool bar to have the rear bars go to the towers and use the door bars to cross between the rear struts if long enough. Sorry for bringing an old thread back from the dead... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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