BTF/PTM Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Here are a couple pictures. The guy who sold me my z (Kenji is his name here) hooked me up with a complete turbo engine (minus the turbo, it has SU's on it) and 5spd gearbox along with the car, and this distributor is on that engine. I'm looking for an electronic ignition for my 240z and I've read on the datsunzgarage site that I need a '79-'80 280zx distributor with the E12-80 igniter on it. This distributor I have doesn't have an external igniter, the wires come from the inside. Red/green turns into purple/green. I got a shot of the part number, too. Thanks, guys. http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q27/AwwsChwA/distributor/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikez31ss Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Here are a couple pictures. The guy who sold me my z (Kenji is his name here) hooked me up with a complete turbo engine (minus the turbo, it has SU's on it) and 5spd gearbox along with the car, and this distributor is on that engine. I'm looking for an electronic ignition for my 240z and I've read on the datsunzgarage site that I need a '79-'80 280zx distributor with the E12-80 igniter on it. This distributor I have doesn't have an external igniter, the wires come from the inside. Red/green turns into purple/green. I got a shot of the part number, too. Thanks, guys. http://s132.photobucket.com/albums/q27/AwwsChwA/distributor/ It's a D6K8 so it is what you wanted. The wires coming from inside are from the pick-up coil. Where do the wires go now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BTF/PTM Posted March 22, 2010 Author Share Posted March 22, 2010 (edited) What does the DK68 mean? The wires don't go anywhere yet, the distributor is still attached to its engine. The picture isn't very clear, but the two wires splice to the 2-prong connector shown in the picture. Green stays green and red goes to purple. That's why I'm curious as to what it is, cuz it doesn't have any kind of external igniter on it. Is that a factory splice? It's a D6K8 so it is what you wanted. The wires coming from inside are from the pick-up coil. Where do the wires go now? Edited March 22, 2010 by BTF/PTM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue72 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 (edited) D6K8 - that's what's stamped on the body of the distributor. It's the right kind of distributor for using the 'matchbox' ignition module (eg E12-80). It looks like someone removed the ignition module that used to be mounted on the side of the distributor and instead ran the wires elsewhere using household wire connectors. They may have had some other ignition controller. It is the early 280ZX style distributor. If you wanted to use that dizzy you'll probably want to find yourself an E12-80 module to run it. Edited March 22, 2010 by blue72 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikez31ss Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 What does the DK68 mean? The wires don't go anywhere yet, the distributor is still attached to its engine. The picture isn't very clear, but the two wires splice to the 2-prong connector shown in the picture. Green stays green and red goes to purple. That's why I'm curious as to what it is, cuz it doesn't have any kind of external igniter on it. Is that a factory splice? D6K8 is the type of dizzy it is...'79-'80 280zx. It would have originally used an e1280 module. Obviously it's been modified so no it isn't a factory splice. If you are going to use an e1280 module you'll need to pull those connectors off and see if they will fit the terminals on the back of an e1280 module. If not then you may be able to modify them. The connectors used to connect the D6K8 pick-up coil and the e1280 module are smaller than normal spade connectors. It had to have used some type of IC module but that's irrelevant now. You can use an e1280 or an HEI module. Personally I'd rather use an HEI module but there are people who will disagree on whether that is best. And ultimately it's your choice. The dizzy in my photo is a rebuilt D6K8 with an e1280 so that should help you if you decide to use the e1280. There is some info on this page that might help: http://www.jrdemers.com/280ZX/distributor/distributor.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BTF/PTM Posted March 22, 2010 Author Share Posted March 22, 2010 Awesome, thanks for the help guys! Sorry about the newbie questions, I can pull and engine and rebuild it but ignition systems are new to me. So the good news is I have the distributor I want, bad news is I don't have quite what I need yet. I'll check around for the igniter unit. I just found a thread discussing how this kind of distributor can be used with no igniter unit at all when used on conjunction with an MSD box-type controller, so maybe that's what was done with the one I have. Any more feedback is welcome, thanks again! One more thing - is there some sort of readily available rebuild kit for a distributor? Can I take this one apart and refurbish it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikez31ss Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Awesome, thanks for the help guys! Sorry about the newbie questions, I can pull and engine and rebuild it but ignition systems are new to me. So the good news is I have the distributor I want, bad news is I don't have quite what I need yet. I'll check around for the igniter unit. I just found a thread discussing how this kind of distributor can be used with no igniter unit at all when used on conjunction with an MSD box-type controller, so maybe that's what was done with the one I have. Any more feedback is welcome, thanks again! One more thing - is there some sort of readily available rebuild kit for a distributor? Can I take this one apart and refurbish it? Click on that link and read. I've put together a TEC3r in the past but I'm still a noob. I have learned a lot about the s30 and s130 ignition system recently though. Still haven't got mine working so take my comments with a grain of salt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BTF/PTM Posted March 22, 2010 Author Share Posted March 22, 2010 I just called napa for a quote on the E1280 igniter - does $289 sound right?? If that's accurate then I see why people say they're outrageously expensive, that's absurd. I could buy a whole MSD capacitive setup for that much. Click on that link and read. I've put together a TEC3r in the past but I'm still a noob. I have learned a lot about the s30 and s130 ignition system recently though. Still haven't got mine working so take my comments with a grain of salt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nosebleedZ Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Yep, that is a realistic new price for an E12-80 module new these days! Imagine what I made off of a gallon jug full of them raped off of a junkyard for $20, ten years ago...LOL! They are a better IC module than the GM HEI inherently, but if you do the conversion, buy a quality one for around $50 as they perform better than the $13 Wells version from AutoZone that makes the tach signal screwy. Search on here for the diagram for the "gravy train simple" mod for this, you can literally do it in under an hour on the first try with average abilities. The best thing is you can remotely mount the GM 4-pin remotely, away from the heat, on an aluminum heat sink & it will last way longer than the dizzy mounted Z module. Best of all, if you break down needing one in any city in the US, they will have it in stock from $13+ up. If you keep the E12-80, you'll have the cost of overnighting the module to parts store $300+ motel room $70+ food +$30 +aspirin $5.....you get the idea my friend, I've been there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 (edited) Yep, that is a realistic new price for an E12-80 module new these days! Imagine what I made off of a gallon jug full of them raped off of a junkyard for $20, ten years ago...LOL! They are a better IC module than the GM HEI inherently, but if you do the conversion, buy a quality one for around $50 as they perform better than the $13 Wells version from AutoZone that makes the tach signal screwy. Search on here for the diagram for the "gravy train simple" mod for this, you can literally do it in under an hour on the first try with average abilities. The best thing is you can remotely mount the GM 4-pin remotely, away from the heat, on an aluminum heat sink & it will last way longer than the dizzy mounted Z module. Best of all, if you break down needing one in any city in the US, they will have it in stock from $13+ up. If you keep the E12-80, you'll have the cost of overnighting the module to parts store $300+ motel room $70+ food +$30 +aspirin $5.....you get the idea my friend, I've been there. I purchased an HEI module from O'Reilly's for around $50. Lifetime warranty, works as it should. Follow these instructions: W - Connects to the positive lead at the distributor. G - Connects to the negative lead at the distributor. C - Connects to the negative side of the coil. B - Connects to the positive side of the coil. Came from: http://dimequarterly.tierranet.com/articles/tech_hei.html If you are running a ballast resistor which cuts the 12v down to like 8v or 6v, take that out. Go under the dash on the drivers side and short the 2 ignition wires together. The 2 that you need to short will be the one for cranking and the one for running. 12v is used when cranking and then when the key is in the run position it gets the 6v from the ballast resistor. When you short the two together you get 12v on both cranking and running. If you're running an HEI module, ignore the E12-80 connection in the diagram below. You can still use that dizzy, just take the module off and LEAVE THE WIRES. Green should be negative and red should be positive, then follow the HEI instructions. Visit the website I linked to because you may want to also build a heat sink for the module to keep it cool. Mine came with a heat transfer paste, and I just used an aluminum bracket to mount the module and utilize it as a heat sink. Edited March 25, 2010 by josh817 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 "They are a better IC module than the GM HEI inherently, but if you do the conversion, buy a quality one for around $50 as they perform better than the $13 Wells version from AutoZone that makes the tach signal screwy." Why is the E12-80 'inherently' better than the HEI? I didn't have tach problems with my $13 Wells module, but it did burn itself up several times before I bought the $48 Pertronix Flame Thrower...which I would posit is 'inherently' better than the E12-80, as it's dwell is better and performance far surpasses the E12-80. I mean, what performance upgrade is available for the E12-80? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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