Kris.Is.Awesome Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 (edited) Ran a 'test fit' of my Prothane bushings after the seized spindle pin frustrated me enough to drop it for now. This is the rear lower control arm. I believe the inner sleeve is too long- I'll let the photos do the talking. This is with the big hunkin 24mm tightened down. All the hardware is used as it was with the OEM bushings I removed. Is this supposed to be like that? AM I missing anything? Edited March 25, 2010 by Kris.Is.Awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtsnlvrs Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 Nope...your good, install that puppy. Once it is installed, I think you will find that it tightens up just fine...just make sure to smear some teflon grease all over your polly bushings..inside and out..or they will squeak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris.Is.Awesome Posted March 25, 2010 Author Share Posted March 25, 2010 Nope...your good, install that puppy. Once it is installed, I think you will find that it tightens up just fine...just make sure to smear some teflon grease all over your polly bushings..inside and out..or they will squeak. So that gap is okay? I've installed poly bushings on quite a few cars and have never seen this. (Already had to sand almost 1/2" off the steering rack bushings just to seat them) And trust me, plenty of grease will be used. My honda's a squeak machine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dtsnlvrs Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 Like I said..once you install it in the car, I think you will find that it will tighten up just fine. If it does not tighten up..then maybe they are too long, but you cannot make that determination until it is installed. The gap is there to allow for expansion when the clamps are tightened down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letitsnow Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 The way a bushing like this works is that the inner sleeve is held by one piece(the control arm I think) and the poly bushing is held by the other part(the chassis). If the inner sleeve isn't longer than the bushing, the control arm will clamp on the bushing and it will bind, stick, and squeak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Konish Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 (edited) Kris, I just installed a full Prothane kit over the last 2 weekends but I don't remember there being that much space between the bushings and still having that much spacer exposed on the ends. When you fit the arm into the top and bottom retaining "saddles" does it force the bushings themselves apart? Obviously this would leave a larger space between the bushings which will not matter as long as the shoulder of the urethane bushings are at least flush with the control arm flange and giant-ass bolt washer. Oh, and I couldn't get my steering rack bushing to fit...the internal diameter was *way* too small and would not fit all the way round the rack mounting points...which pissed me off to no end. Since I was working outside, was running out of daylight and patience I jut the old rubber ones back in. I also had to shave some of the face off one of the bushings on the internal spindle pin side on both LCAs just to get the strut mounted back in there...and even then it was TIGHT. Oh and the tie-rod end covers are pretty stiff and are not near as compliant as the OEM rubber covers. If I had it to do over again, I would have just bought new OEM covers since the urethane ones don't "add" anything to the stiffness factor and don't seem to cover as well. R/ Dustin EDIT: Oh, hey, I just noticed...where are the thick "starred" washers that go in between the flange on the LCA side and the washer on the bolt side? That might explain the gap... Edited March 25, 2010 by Konish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 The steering rack bushings are different from 69-73 and 74-78. 74-78 bushings are THICK and don't fit well on the early racks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris.Is.Awesome Posted March 25, 2010 Author Share Posted March 25, 2010 Kris, I just installed a full Prothane kit over the last 2 weekends but I don't remember there being that much space between the bushings and still having that much spacer exposed on the ends. When you fit the arm into the top and bottom retaining "saddles" does it force the bushings themselves apart? Obviously this would leave a larger space between the bushings which will not matter as long as the shoulder of the urethane bushings are at least flush with the control arm flange and giant-ass bolt washer. Oh, and I couldn't get my steering rack bushing to fit...the internal diameter was *way* too small and would not fit all the way round the rack mounting points...which pissed me off to no end. Since I was working outside, was running out of daylight and patience I jut the old rubber ones back in. I also had to shave some of the face off one of the bushings on the internal spindle pin side on both LCAs just to get the strut mounted back in there...and even then it was TIGHT. Oh and the tie-rod end covers are pretty stiff and are not near as compliant as the OEM rubber covers. If I had it to do over again, I would have just bought new OEM covers since the urethane ones don't "add" anything to the stiffness factor and don't seem to cover as well. R/ Dustin EDIT: Oh, hey, I just noticed...where are the thick "starred" washers that go in between the flange on the LCA side and the washer on the bolt side? That might explain the gap... Those starred washers are there. When I set the bottom 'clamp' on the bushing it forces the bushing apart causing the gap in the middle like you see. Of all the bushings I've installed I've never seen that. Might give prothane a call tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galloguy05 Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 (edited) When I did my poly upgrade I went through the same thing. I searched and searche (to no avail) about it but found nothing. The only thing I can suggest is make sure that you have BOTH the correct bushings. IIRC there is one longer and one shorter bushing and if u have them mismatched you will get the gap. It was a while ago (about 7 months) when I dd mine so I could be mistaken, but I believe that is what fixed my issue. Edit: to clarify what I mean, I had the two shorter bushings matched on one side and the larger ones matched on the other side of the control arm. So one side seemed too long and the other was too short. They don't really look all that different in size until u look good and well at them. Hope this helps. Edited March 26, 2010 by galloguy05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 26, 2010 Share Posted March 26, 2010 (edited) "Going Poly"... I'm going to leave it untouched... I laid mine all out and like the last poster, if there were two bushings going into a housing, if I had them of differeing sizes they would be shuffled so parts matched. If both sides are like this, then I'd not worry about it. Can't resist: "Goin' Homo" or "Goin' Bi" all lead up to someone saying they're "Going Poly".... I likes Sheeps! I went poly long ago. I'm baaa aaa aaad! Edited March 26, 2010 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 (edited) i was just installing my urethane kit last weekend and had some issues too. but not like yours though. my front control arm inner bushings had to be grind down to fit inside(74-78 kit for my 74 260z). my torsion rod seems a bit off now also since im using 3/4 strut spacer. the two hole that mounts to the control arm seems to not line up straight with control arm and had to be force fit(bolt). seems like it will work though. spindle pin is another new story. Edited March 27, 2010 by piston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowCarbZ Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 I installed mine last year and if I remember correctly the bushings are different sizes from the front portion of the control arm to the rear portion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris.Is.Awesome Posted March 27, 2010 Author Share Posted March 27, 2010 i was just installing my urethane kit last weekend and had some issues too. but not like yours though. my front control arm inner bushings had to be grind down to fit inside(74-78 kit for my 74 260z). my torsion rod seems a bit off now also since im using 3/4 strut spacer. the two hole that mounts to the control arm seems to not line up straight with control arm and had to be force fit(bolt). seems like it will work though. spindle pin is another new story. Hmm, mine were a nice, tight fit but I didn't have to cut anything. The TC rod is going to be 'off' because the poly bushing is stiff as hell. Actually probably not the best option for the TC rod bushing- but I had to work all the parts together to get them to sit right and bolt up. I still cant this darn spindle pin out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 i tried swapping bushings big in front and small in back but it moves it even further back. my inner didnt fit because i had 240z arms and the 74 260z matches dead on with the later 280z stuff. mine is 7/74 but datsun mixed a bunch of crap up that year. i also have 280z strut setup on left and 240z on right factory. maybe im thinking too much but the 280z strut tube housing seems to be slight off angle and the 240z points straight up! this is viewed with stub axles pointed at 3/9 o'clock. one of my spindle pin moves when i tap it with a hammer. one is just busted with the nut spinning around on one end. i say screw it. the original bushings are solid and dont see how it will even wear out. ill be skipping that for now and keeping my old ones as they are still musshy and solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 Remember these bushings are to be assembled laden. If nothing else, the final torquing is done with the suspension laden. This is a very important aspect to the installation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 The T/C rod nuts and bolts are much easier to get in (Post #11) with the car on the ground (laden suspension) also. They are easy to reach from the side with the wheel turned. I have done it both ways, on the ground is like buttah... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kris.Is.Awesome Posted March 28, 2010 Author Share Posted March 28, 2010 Remember these bushings are to be assembled laden. If nothing else, the final torquing is done with the suspension laden. This is a very important aspect to the installation. Yes, I'm aware of this. It's just that when you 'clamp' the arm in, it forces the bushing apart and leaves that gap in the middle. Also (multi quoting isn't working for me) for the TC rod I used a jack to get everything close enough to get some threads in. Dropped her down and tightened everything on the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverarrow27 Posted March 29, 2010 Share Posted March 29, 2010 My only problem was me being an idiot trying to go the short way out by using a hydraulic press for my rear control arm and it bent one of my arms. Contemplating whether I should just buy the TTT rear control arm and call it a day or go to the local pick-a-parts and/or buy another used rear control arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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