L24 engine stand bolts

[xShodaimex]

Hey everyone I just recently bought a L24 engine block w/ head. It came with an engine stand but the thing is it doesn't have bolts. What kind of bolts do I use? I tried searching around but nothing about engine stands and bolts. I really want to bolt this engine up onto the stand so all help would be appreciated.

[jc052685]

I use the short head bolts with washers to take up the slack

[e_racer1999]

Ya, the bolts are expensive; like $5 a piece. Short head bolts with washers work.

[xShodaimex]

Ya, the bolts are expensive; like $5 a piece. Short head bolts with washers work.

ok so the head bolts fit right on? Ill try that.

[jc052685]

Fit right on, just need a bunch of washers depending on the brand of engine stand.

[xShodaimex]

not sure about the brand but it is available at harbor freight.. ill try out the head bolts tho, thanks guys!

[josh817]

not sure about the brand but it is available at harbor freight.. ill try out the head bolts tho, thanks guys!

Be careful with the typical T style engine stands, the ones where there are 3 wheels, one on each point of the T... They can topple over on you. Had it happen to my dad on one of his race motors, snapped some head studs in the block and bent the others. He rigged up the stand so it resembled an I instead of a T, which utilized 4 wheels and prevents it from toppling over to the side.

 

Old head bolts will work on all the Datsun engines I think. I used them for my Z motor and for a Roadster U20 motor. Head bolts are a 10mm hex head, buy a good quality hex socket so when you torque the head down to the block it won't break. I had some off brand socket and it broke before I hit 60ftlbs.

 

Another hint... Utilize a side mounting method. Mounting the motor like this is fine and dandy however it yields some problems... First, you can't bolt flywheel and pressure plate on while its on the stand, I like doing it while its on. Second, when you get the crank, rods, pistons, and head onto the block, it really starts drooping... I didn't bend any head bolts but it sure looked like it was. Third, good luck trying to turn the motor around to put the oil pan on and stuff. Once it tilts to the side, with the head bolted down, it will want to spin right around on you and then you won't be able to get it right side up again without busting your balls. Also note, the "I" type engine stand to keep it from falling over:

 

A more desirable method is to make a plate with the drill pattern of the 4 threaded holes on the intake/exhaust side of the block. I think it was used for like an A/C or power steering pump. If you bolt into those and mount the engine on its side, all three effects I listed above are fixed. It also really helps if you buy an engine stand that has a crank drive to spin it around. This one also has the "I" setup, plus we added a spill pan on the bottom for engine tear downs when oil is all over the place so you don't do what I did in the first picture above:

 

Hope that helps.

Edited April 10, 2010 by josh817

[seattlejester]

Sorry to be raising a thread from the dead, but I have the exact same question.

 

So the size is 10mm, what is the pitch and length required? I have the harbor freight I type engine stand, and will be getting a motor tomorrow that I would like to keep off the floor.

Edited October 3, 2010 by seattlejester

[2eighTZ4me]

They're 10x1.5 - probably 4 inches would do ya. I use old main cap bolts - perfect size for my particular stand.

[seattlejester]

thank ya!

 

you're getting my engine off the floor, lol.