madmax37 Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/full.aspx?Page=80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 http://www.blackdrag...ll.aspx?Page=80 You would be better off guessing, or using your nose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmax37 Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 why do you say that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 why do you say that? Because AFR's and EGT's are two different animals, ontop of that, they don't even say whats what when the it turns colors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyoctopus Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 i bought one a while back while i was trying to diagnose my SUs. only used it twice, and never really felt that it helped with the tuning process. then again, my carbs were shot so... mine isnt the best example. I have been thinking about using on my webers for idle mixture adjustment, but I will probably end up using the look, listen and pull as it is just as accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 I have one I've got when I purchased the Z. I've never used it though. The previous owner used it to tune the car but it was FAR from being ok. If you want something accurate to tune cars, I would advice a wideband sensor if you don't want to spend crazy money, I'm sure you can find a Innovate LM1 for quite cheap now. I do have a LM2, it is an amazing tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 (edited) I really get dejected when people make ignorant commentary when they have never used something. I have used the Colortune for over 30 years now... Bought the first one when they were still using Anodised Aluminum Tubing for the Riser/Shade and Stainless Steel Mirrors (not the plastic and vapor-chrome crap on my last set...) Yes, I bought my first set in late 1977 or early 1978 to do jetting on Flat Six engines. In the early 90's I lent them to someone who shall remain nameless, and I lost my original set. While in Wales, I REPURCHASED a set of two to continue quick tuning as I always have. At the time of the original purchase, and even today, they are about the least expensive reliable way to tell what your mixture is, and they are REPEATABLE from engine to engine and test to test. If you were dyno tuning years ago, this was faster than the Gas Analyzers in some cases... And transient effects of accelerator pump adjustment was ALWAYS a dream for EGT, and until the Horibas got fast, AFR Sensors were too slow to pick that up till comparatively recently. While you say EGT or AFR will tell you all this----you tell me how you're going to do it for $160 (pair of two Colortunes, but that's my preference you can do just fine with one...) now try doing AFR or EGT in 1979, 1989, 1999, and even up to last year and give me the prices on those two respective analysis instruments. In 1978, and into the late 80's AFR was thousands of dollars to reliably measure. EGT was and is still several hundred dollars for multiple cylinder setups... If you take the time to learn how to use it, it's damned decent for a tuning tool. FAR more accurate than 'your nose or guessing'... You want quantification of results, the AFR where you see visible black smoke out the tailpipe on an L-Engine is around 10:1. You get a consistent "Any idiot can see this is orange" 'orange' flame in a Colortune around 12:1, which is where they tell you that you are TOO RICH... If you use it and start to understand the orange licking means around 13:1 the progression makes easy enough approximation. But they won't say this in the brochure from 1995...or 1977. Someone with WBO2 who has both can quantify it that way. Don't need to drill any holes in anything to use a Colortune. Don't need a battery connection to use a Colortune. Basically all you need is a spark plug wrench and one good eye (or one good eye after correction...) From my experience, it is what it says it is, and considering when it was originally conceived, it's a brilliant little tool! I have no complaints. The addled youth of today may not have the skills to adequately master it's nuances, though. Just my bit of personal opinion there, it doesn't have LED's, it doesn't flash at you or make noise. It requires you to observe something closely for changes. The closer and better your powers of observation, the better you will find it works. Have the eyesight of a syphalitic one-eyed pirate and an attention span of a Ritalin Test Case, and you will likely be disapointed. Then again, you would likely try snorting the anti-seize and white deposits from the O2 sensor in that case as well... Edited April 14, 2010 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PanzerAce Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 Hmmm......I'm halfway tempted to get a set for idle tuning my Mikunis. I can get idle air fine with the old school hose and ear method, but idle mix on my engine is far far less precise (changing temps during the test, etc). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lazeum Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 I really get dejected when people make ignorant commentary when they have never used something. I'll try to be less ignorant then I'm always trying to be open-minded. It could actually be fun (and interesting) to check different tool to understand. So here's some question to know more: How do you really proceed to tune the engine knowing you cannot drive the car? I mean check accelerator pump for instance when the engine can rev' freely would require some extrapolation from the tuner right? When you are talking about being able to master the nuances, it is really fast? you must basically see during a blink of an eye the color change right? would you preferably tune the car in a dark environment? From my little (really!) experience, WB are more than just a tool to check AFR in the car (the gage is not fast enough anyway to show you quick variations), it allows you to understand fuel flow vs. rpm for instance. On my previous setup for instance I could see some rich spot at some point I did not even see without looking at some curves. To go back to the color tune, it can be a good tool but for little bit more you can get something more accurate. I'll give it a try though since it is readily available to me. I'll report back if I have anything interesting to share Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psdenno Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 (edited) I bought a ColorTune for my Z over 35 years ago. The only difficult part about using it tends to be seeing the "flame" color when tuning outdoors on a bright day. It's a nice, inexpensive, addition to the tool chest. Dennis Edited April 14, 2010 by psdenno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 I'm with Tony on this one. It is a great little (Physically little too!) tool, that absolutely works. I did find it harder to use in the bright sunlight. BTW this was also 20 years ago, when some of the "tools" we take for granted today didn't exist for the home enthusiast. Want to fine tune your megasquirt? fine, use the high tech data logging able tools. Have a 35 yr old set of SU's to tune on your own in your garage? Then use the colour tune. Works just fine. Got $$$ to spend on cool tools, then go for the new stuff. We are not all driving $100K technological super cars here folks! Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmax37 Posted April 16, 2010 Author Share Posted April 16, 2010 cool great! i think the wide band sensor is a cool idea, i remember now from a movie on you tube it displays the ratio... didn't realize till now. although there is only the stock gauges in my car,the wide band sensor may not fit in, and unfortunately no turbo swap till i go back to work. right now i am ruining a de-rusted stock 240, with Holley 4bbl conversion, and suspension, and the e1280 dizzy, but it chokes up around 3500 rpm and it is smoking blueish smoke lightly, could be valve seals tho or even rings so.. ill have to take it to school to check the dwell and timing... anyways awesome feedback thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 I have one bought in the late 70's - must be one of the good ones.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PSL_240z Posted April 22, 2010 Share Posted April 22, 2010 I bought one a few months ago. I am new to tuning carbs and engines in general. It really helped me get the fuel ratio in the ballpark and helped educate me on what I should be hearing and feeling from the engine. I would recommend buying one if you are new to the z and new to carbs. If you have tuned carbs before you probably dont need one. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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