zgeezer Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 I drained my compressor tank last night and got about 1 gallon of an oil/water mix....sort of like orange mayonaise. I'm down on oil on the compressor. What do these things use? Gear oil, synthetic, 30 weight, ATF or Power Steering Fluid. I don't have the user manual. Any help is welcome. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zinpieces Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 First and foremost you need to drain your compressor tank at least weekly, daily under heavy use and most often in humid weather. Compressor oils are a specific formulation designed to cling to parts. Most compressors are splash oiled, no forced lubrication. Most auto or hardware stores will have compressor oil. It does come in different viscosities so look for a plate on the compressor head or tank. Also have a water separator in the air line and oil your tools every day you use them, rust forms in tools very quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoov100 Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 (edited) I've used nothing but regular 'ole 10/30 synthetic in three of my compressors without any problem. My father ran regular motor oil in his, before he gave it to me and it's still kicking 30 years later without a problem. I concur about draining the compressor tank about every week though. Edited May 4, 2010 by hoov100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzzzz Posted May 4, 2010 Share Posted May 4, 2010 I've used nothing but regular 'ole 10/30 synthetic in three of my compressors without any problem. My father ran regular motor oil in his, before he gave it to me and it's still kicking 30 years later without a problem. I concur about draining the compressor tank about every week though. 30w non detergent oil. The oil for car engines has detergent in oil and is made for pressurized oil lubed system. Air compressor are usually splash lubrication.Auto parts stores carry it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted May 6, 2010 Share Posted May 6, 2010 I have anautomatic drain for my compressor - it drains every time it shuts off. Got the kit from HF but had to replace everything but the valve and a t fitting to feel comfortable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meph Posted May 7, 2010 Share Posted May 7, 2010 They sell compressor oil at most supply places you'd normally see air compressors for sale at Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxtoy Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 The orange mayo that drained out of your tank, was it rust by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi303 Posted May 8, 2010 Share Posted May 8, 2010 Milk vacuum pump oil, rural stores would carry it. It doesn't turn milky and gel when water gets in, like what you see when a head gasket goes in a car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted May 8, 2010 Author Share Posted May 8, 2010 The orange mayo that drained out of your tank, was it rust by any chance? I don't know. Might have been. I really thought it was the color of the oil. The consistency is just oil mixed with water and air under pressure. g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 19, 2010 Share Posted May 19, 2010 What brand of compressor? Most manufacturers will be able to give you an instruction booklet via a link on their webpages (or at least whomever bought them out may be able to tell you...) Generally, older Cast-Iron compressors will take a 30wt ND (non-detergent) oil. Using automotive oil with detergents will keep wear particles 'in suspension' and the result will be accelerated wear on bearing and ring areas. For the occasional air user at home, you may never notice this. Do it in a shop compressor that runs 2000 hours a year, and it will show up within a couple of years. There is absolutly no reason to run a Mulit-Vis in a splash-lubricated compressor. PAG or PAO synthetics are more expensive, but in older compressors with real valve systems, they can keep the compressor operating longer due to cleaning up the deposits on the valves---if you operate at higher pressures ND Motor Oil can carbonise on the valves and you loose efficiency. The synthetics will strip off any varnish and carbon, and be more heat-tolerant than mineral oils. Orange Milky Condensate is rust from the tank discoloring the water (condensate), the thick stuff is emulsified oil. Most auto-drainers (good ones at least) will blow down the tank once air pressure drops 10psi. Meaning every time the compressor cycles, the tank will be vented momentarily to dump condensate. Daily before and after use manual blowdown is a minimum. I store my tank full of air using a block valve on the outlet port, I can drain out condensate the next day after it all drops out of solution. Lets me start work while the initial fill starts, as well as fill a tire or three without turning on the compressor. Smaller tanks (like 30 gallon) usually work well being blown down at days end and being started with the drain open for a while. I could go on and on. Compressors is my business... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zxtoy Posted May 20, 2010 Share Posted May 20, 2010 Thanks for the Compressor oil "101" Tony. It's always good to know more about our tools! And really Great to get that info from a Pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galloguy05 Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 I don't mean to thread Jack but I have a compressor question. I just purchased a 60 gallon compressor and it does not see a ton of use like a shop compressor does. I've actually only used it twice so far. My question is, should I drain the tank in between uses or is it fine to let the air sit in the tank until the next use if I have an in-line water seperator? I don't want to ruin the life of my compressor. I am the only person I know that has a compressor like mine (as far as size and what it's used for). My grandpa say leaving the air in it is fine but I don't want to ruin it. I'm sure that draining the air couldn't hurt though right? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 (edited) Reading the post or thread sometimes answers questions you may have: "I store my tank full of air using a block valve on the outlet port, I can drain out condensate the next day after it all drops out of solution. Lets me start work while the initial fill starts, as well as fill a tire or three without turning on the compressor. Smaller tanks (like 30 gallon) usually work well being blown down at days end and being started with the drain open for a while." Just an example... BTW, AIR is not what will damage the tank. Condensed water is what will cause an issue. Draining water out is what you want to do. As I said, leave the air in there overnight so all the water drops out, drain the water and leave the air. You will be fine. Wet air is bad, dry air is fine... Edited May 21, 2010 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
galloguy05 Posted May 21, 2010 Share Posted May 21, 2010 Alright thanks. I must have misunderstood what that part meant. For some reason I thought it meant that the stored air was bad for it as well. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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