Zmanco Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 wow I didnt realize this.. I should've studied more on the functions. I really need to read more about proportioning valve and stuff. Anyways, I went to three junk yards today and to my amazement, I only found ONE 240sx. And it was missing the rear rotors.. Take a look at buying rebuilt calipers at O'Reilly or Autozone or the like. When I did my upgrade the cost that way was barely more than buying cores at the JY and rebuilding them. Shop around - you may be surprised at the difference in prices for parts like these. Here's a good tutorial on proportioning valves: StopTech There have been some excellent discussions on this site too. Try searching on "proportioning" or "prop valve". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zmanco Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 I love guys like you that ... Now you're making it personal. I'm done here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2eighTZ4me Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 I'm surprised TonyD hasn't chimed in here..... he's not a big fan of the rear disc conversion at all (from my recollection) - and, in keeping with the TonyD spirit - he'll tell ya why too.....waiting with bated breath.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
30 ounce Posted June 19, 2010 Share Posted June 19, 2010 I upgraded my front and rears with silvermine motors stage 4 kits. Very easy upgrade (the only problem was I needed to adjust the rod to the new master cylinder length.(didn't think that would be necesary but it was)). The pedal feel, brake modulation, overall brake effectiveness have been greatly improved. Granted, my brakes were due for new pads and fresh fluid anyway. I am still using the stock porportioning valve and it seems to work well. I would bet that a porportioning valve would be needed to optimize the brake balance for track days but for street use the stock unit seems adequate. Finally my z stops better than my wifes minivan! Can't wait for track days to check this setup out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted June 24, 2010 Author Share Posted June 24, 2010 I upgraded my front and rears with silvermine motors stage 4 kits. Very easy upgrade (the only problem was I needed to adjust the rod to the new master cylinder length.(didn't think that would be necesary but it was)). The pedal feel, brake modulation, overall brake effectiveness have been greatly improved. Granted, my brakes were due for new pads and fresh fluid anyway. I am still using the stock porportioning valve and it seems to work well. I would bet that a porportioning valve would be needed to optimize the brake balance for track days but for street use the stock unit seems adequate. Finally my z stops better than my wifes minivan! Can't wait for track days to check this setup out. nice to hear! My brackets from modern motorsports just arrived the other day. I just need to pick up a pair of calipers/rotors and some pads and then Im set to put them in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 You missed the part where he upgraded the fronts too. Just be careful after you install the setup. Head out to a deserted stretch of road and do some hard stops and see which end locks up first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zdlite Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 (edited) Deleted. figured it out Edited June 25, 2010 by zdlite Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin240Z Posted June 27, 2010 Share Posted June 27, 2010 (edited) You missed the part where he upgraded the fronts too. Just be careful after you install the setup. Head out to a deserted stretch of road and do some hard stops and see which end locks up first. This is why an adjustable proportioning valve is suggested with the rear disc conversion. I've got the 4 piston toyota calipers up front, 15/16ths 280zx master cylinder on my 280 2+2, and I'm actually in the middle of installing the rear disc setup I used to have on my 240Z. (280zx rear rotors and 200sx calipers if i remember correctly) I have an adjustable proportioning valve on the shelf, so once the rear brakes are done, I'm going to a parking lot and see if she wants to spin. If she does, I'm going to be putting the valve in. But yeah, I definitely agree with testing out the brakes. The required pressure for a wheel cylinder to actuate the brakes vs. a caliper is very different. Edited June 27, 2010 by Austin240Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted June 27, 2010 Author Share Posted June 27, 2010 I think Ill be doing what your gonna do austin240z I just came back from the junkyard to get my calipers, all i need is a pair of pads and Im all set. If my z's back locks up first then I guess I will get that prop valve, if not then I might just leave it. Im pretty tired right now but come tuesday Ill be starting on the conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Anyone with the 240sx rear conversion from silver mine motorsports care to share their instructions? I bought a kit used and need a little guidance on the parking brake extension. Thanks! Tyler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted June 30, 2010 Share Posted June 30, 2010 Anyone with the 240sx rear conversion from silver mine motorsports care to share their instructions? I bought a kit used and need a little guidance on the parking brake extension. Thanks! Tyler They're actually '05 - '09 Mustang calipers (43 mm piston vs 39 mm in the 240sx caliper). There are two adjustment rods for the brake cable length. There is one long one next to the driveshaft and a short one above the nose of the differential. I've pretty much maxed out the long one and I'm still about a 1/2" short of cable on one side. I haven't adjust the short rod yet because the driveshaft, sway bar and crossmember are all in the way. I'm hoping to undo those tomorrow so that I can get access. Even with extending the short rod, I have another issue to deal with though. I have a Ron Tyler differential bracket, and the head of the bolt in the top of the bracket that holds the GM poly mount is now interfering with a pin in the p-brake cable mechanism, which will prevent any more slack in the cable. I'm hoping I can shorten the pin to clear the bolt head. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 I now have everything I need to do my swap![i think]. I got the brackets/ss lines and hardware from modern motorsports I've also got the calipers from the junkyard and both the rotors and pads from Kragens. The calipers/rotors/brake pads costed me about a hundred bucks. I'll post pics as soon as Im done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted July 3, 2010 Author Share Posted July 3, 2010 (edited) The pads I got are from kragens. I didnt have the pads from the original car so i cant compare with the stock pads. Can someone help me? It doesnt have any clip retainers instead it has these. Did anyone use these? Jw. Never seen them on any pads I've ever used. Edited July 3, 2010 by xShodaimex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headstrong280z Posted July 3, 2010 Share Posted July 3, 2010 (edited) The pads I got are from kragens. I didnt have the pads from the original car so i cant compare with the stock pads. Can someone help me? It doesnt have any clip retainers instead it has these. Did anyone use these? Jw. Never seen them on any pads I've ever used. Thats all there is for pads, the tab on there is a low pad indicator. When I bought my rebuilt calipers from Rockauto they came with the pad retainers... Edited July 3, 2010 by Headstrong280z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted July 4, 2010 Author Share Posted July 4, 2010 Thats all there is for pads, the tab on there is a low pad indicator. When I bought my rebuilt calipers from Rockauto they came with the pad retainers... THEN I WAS SHORT CHANGED! Damn them! When I put them on I just knew it didn't look right! Well I guess Ill head back to get those retainers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin240Z Posted July 5, 2010 Share Posted July 5, 2010 I think Ill be doing what your gonna do austin240z I just came back from the junkyard to get my calipers, all i need is a pair of pads and Im all set. If my z's back locks up first then I guess I will get that prop valve, if not then I might just leave it. Im pretty tired right now but come tuesday Ill be starting on the conversion. Did some testing on mine, I didnt have a proper testing area, so didnt get to test them over 40 mph... but up to 40 mph with the Toyota 4 piston fronts, 280ZX master cylinder, and the 200sx caliper/280zx rear disc setup, the I was able to brake properly during hard cornering. I'm still not sure about anything over 40mph, or during "panic braking" but that setup seemed to work properly so far without a proportion valve. I still suggest finding a big open unpopulated parking lot and checking yours out very thoroughly. Good luck with your swap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedNeckZ Posted July 9, 2010 Share Posted July 9, 2010 (edited) Being a former member of the Z car club of Colorado, I can say I have boiled my brakes (stock) on the Stapleton and Second Creek race tracks a few times in the past. I went to disc brakes all the way around it in 1995. I have the 300ZX brakes with S-12W calibers on the front and the 280ZX system on the rear (early calibers with later short hat rotors, flat mounting plate). I added stainless steel lines on the front and left the rubber lines on the rear. I also removed the rear bais system above the rear axle and moved the line over and reattached it. I run semi-metal pads on the front and stock pads on the rear. It is a good neutral braking system for me. I have run it at Secong Creek with it this way and did not have any problems with it. I have also taken it to Las Vegas for the 2000 club meet and ran it around the track there with no problems. A lot of people do not like this system because of it leaking. As of todays date, it still hasn't leaked on me. The new 280SX setup is a better system, just because it is newer and you can still get parts and calibers cheaply for it. I am looking at using a setup on the next car that uses the turbo 300ZX rotors. Will have to make the mounts for it after I decide what calibers I am going to use. There are several posts on this forum about this subject. Good Luck with the choice you make. If I had to do it again, I would do it with out thinking. It is the best thing you can do to your car for both racing and street. Edited July 9, 2010 by RedNeckZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted July 10, 2010 Author Share Posted July 10, 2010 As of this moment I am in a dilemma. I have the rotor and caliper w/ pads on already. BUT the old brake line will not come off. There was alot of rust on the bolt that it almost ate everything off. I have put tons of wd-40 on it and it still will not budge. I've even used the flarenut wrench. Its almost stripped. On the passenger side I cannot take off the part to the "T" fitting junction. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19762802+2 Posted July 10, 2010 Share Posted July 10, 2010 As of this moment I am in a dilemma. I have the rotor and caliper w/ pads on already. BUT the old brake line will not come off. There was alot of rust on the bolt that it almost ate everything off. I have put tons of wd-40 on it and it still will not budge. I've even used the flarenut wrench. Its almost stripped. On the passenger side I cannot take off the part to the "T" fitting junction. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks! Sometimes you just have to break out the vise grip and man handle it. Are you talking about the metal line between the brake and the rubber line or the rubber line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xShodaimex Posted July 11, 2010 Author Share Posted July 11, 2010 (edited) Yeah the metal line to the rubber line was a bother. On the passenger side it was not a problem. The only problem I had on the passenger side was that I could not take out the metal line on the "T" fitting [where the metal lines joined together]. On the driver side it was much worst. I couldn't take off any of the bolts, even w/ vise grips[super rusted and stripped]. What I did on the driver side was I cut off the part that would not come off and I flared it using a flaring tool. That hooked up nicely w/ the ss line. On the passenger side all I did was hooked the ss line w/ the adapter that it came w/ to the rubber line which was already on the steel line. Its super long so I just rerouted it. I also bled the brakes and its feeling really strong. I've also checked for leaks and there was no leaks. Hopefully tommorrow I can get a camera and post some pictures! It looks alittle messy down there so what I'll do is make sure everything is tight and then I'll mount the brake line against something. Edited July 11, 2010 by xShodaimex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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