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Distributor Drive Quil


DAW

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I know others have removed the quil and cut it down, but why can't it be left as-is when eliminating the distributor? Doesn't the upper bushing on the timing cover provide enough stability to leave it in place?

DAW

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The upper bushing for the quill shaft is the dizzy housing. Remove the dizzy and you now have removed that upper support/bushing, (see pic below, note the light around the quill shaft looking down through the dizzy mount). Quill shaft is supported in the front cover above the drive gear and below the drive gear with the oil pump housing.

Others have just left it to spin unsupported with no reported problems. I personally prefer to take the extra couple minutes to remove the oil pump, draw out the quill shaft and just cut it with a hack saw. The quill shaft itself is a soft steel, cuts very easy and does not need to be "clocked" to any position when reinstalled now that the dizzy has been deleted. :wink:

 

 

 

 

Quill1Medium.jpg

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Yet another piece to be harvested from an LD28: the oil pump drive gear. No cutting required, just stub-shafted from the factory as in BRAAP's example.

 

And you don't trash a perfectly good distributor drive quill, either!

 

There is either a Naichi, or NTN ball bearing which will fit in the distributor recess, and over the end of the quill shaft. A Welsh Plug in the hole them gives it a finished look. Someone will have to measure the two diameters, but as I recall it was a standard off the shelf part when we put it in a car with Electromotive TEC2 back in 92 or 93... been a while, sorry I can't remember the number offhand.

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Yet another piece to be harvested from an LD28: the oil pump drive gear. No cutting required, just stub-shafted from the factory as in BRAAP's example.

 

And you don't trash a perfectly good distributor drive quill, either!

 

There is either a Naichi, or NTN ball bearing which will fit in the distributor recess, and over the end of the quill shaft. A Welsh Plug in the hole them gives it a finished look. Someone will have to measure the two diameters, but as I recall it was a standard off the shelf part when we put it in a car with Electromotive TEC2 back in 92 or 93... been a while, sorry I can't remember the number offhand.

 

 

 

What no cheeky comment  about my "shaft" flopping around!

 

 

Tony your loosing your edge.

 

 

 

 

Derek

 

 

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Nonstop 16 hour days since the beginning of the month, plus getting some sort of Canadian Crud which causes hacking, snot production in my lungs, a headache, and sinuses which feel like they will explode may be affecting my memory. I can see the bearing and when we installed it...but can't clearly see the "NTN" number afterwards...

 

And all I have to look forward to is 12 days in the freakin' desert when this is done.

 

Not any desert, the freakin' desert, A.K.A. "The Sandbox and Environs Therein" :sour:

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Thanks for all the good suggestions. I think the bearing idea is the way for me to go (not that I'm too lazy to drop the sway bar; to drop the oil pump...etc). I'll pull the distributor and try to fit a bearing and provide a part # when I find one.

DAW

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I've successfully pulled my oil pump several times without having to remove the sway bar. :-D

 

Just takes some careful planning. Get the front end to the right hight and balance (be CAREFUL, keep at least ONE tire on the ground when offset lifting!), and the sway bar magically droops out of the way. Magic.

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  • 3 years later...

There is either a Naichi, or NTN ball bearing which will fit in the distributor recess, and over the end of the quill shaft. A Welsh Plug in the hole them gives it a finished look. Someone will have to measure the two diameters, but as I recall it was a standard off the shelf part when we put it in a car with Electromotive TEC2 back in 92 or 93... been a while, sorry I can't remember the number offhand.

I like this idea.  Press in one of those wide angle bearings take some wiggle and let the business do its thing.

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