deja Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 What size spray tip are you using? If it's too large it will spray too much material... Also, if you thinned it down too much it will run and not cover well... If you need some guidance, share some more details about the product you're spraying and your equipment etc etc etc and maybe we can help you tweak things Also shar gun pressure pressure and whether its an hvlp gun would be good to know as well I bought the primer and the gun from TCP Global. The primer is Gray DTM Epoxy Prime/Sealer-Kit Kustom Color KUS KIT-KEP505-GL. Comes with harder and reducer. I did what the instructions said and mixed 2-1-1 primer-hardener-reducer. maybe too much reducer??? The gun is a TCP G660025 HVLP with a 2.5 Nozzle with a regulator which I have set to a max of 29 psi, the instructions on the gun said max inlet of 29 psi to maintain a max of 10 psi at the air cap. I did some testing with a different primer and thought it was setup right, apparently not It really put out a lot of paint in a hurry. There are several adjustments on the gun (air adjustment, pattern adjustment, paint adjustment). I was moving down the car much faster than I thought I would have to, the paint really flies out of this thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kj280z Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 I bought the primer and the gun from TCP Global. The primer is Gray DTM Epoxy Prime/Sealer-Kit Kustom Color KUS KIT-KEP505-GL. Comes with harder and reducer. I did what the instructions said and mixed 2-1-1 primer-hardener-reducer. maybe too much reducer??? The gun is a TCP G660025 HVLP with a 2.5 Nozzle with a regulator which I have set to a max of 29 psi, the instructions on the gun said max inlet of 29 psi to maintain a max of 10 psi at the air cap. I did some testing with a different primer and thought it was setup right, apparently not It really put out a lot of paint in a hurry. There are several adjustments on the gun (air adjustment, pattern adjustment, paint adjustment). I was moving down the car much faster than I thought I would have to, the paint really flies out of this thing. We should probably start a different thread under paint and body for this, but real quick - it sounds like a combination of too much reducer and that nozzle is very large! I have a SATA 3000 RP and use a 1.3 tip for sealers, singlestages, bases, and clears(sometimes I will use a 1.6). I have a SATA KLC RP with a 1.8 tip for high build primers, and epoxy primers. I have never used the prime you're spraying but I suspect a combination of gun settings, a smaller tip and less reducer will improve your results. I checked the manufacturers website on that prime and did not see that they required reducer, so this is usually left to judgement to get the consistency correct and also on your climate/conditions for dry times... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted June 26, 2010 Share Posted June 26, 2010 We should probably start a different thread under paint and body for this, but real quick - it sounds like a combination of too much reducer and that nozzle is very large! I have a SATA 3000 RP and use a 1.3 tip for sealers, singlestages, bases, and clears(sometimes I will use a 1.6). I have a SATA KLC RP with a 1.8 tip for high build primers, and epoxy primers. I have never used the prime you're spraying but I suspect a combination of gun settings, a smaller tip and less reducer will improve your results. I checked the manufacturers website on that prime and did not see that they required reducer, so this is usually left to judgement to get the consistency correct and also on your climate/conditions for dry times... Thanks, maybe the admins can move this from post #16 so we don't highjack this thread. The primer comes in a kit which includes the reducer. I am going to call TCP to see what the recommend for a gun. In the mean time I will start sanding, hopefully I won't have to take it all off again!!! I do have a few pinholes in the filler that I didn't notice but all in all the molding looks pretty good in spite of the ton of runs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logan1 Posted June 28, 2010 Author Share Posted June 28, 2010 Deja, Did you have any success re-applying the primer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted June 28, 2010 Share Posted June 28, 2010 Deja, Did you have any success re-applying the primer? Not yet. I did get all the runs and orange peel sanded off and found a ton of low spots in my body work and am "fixing" all that. I called the 24/7 tech support for TCP and like you suggested they said that 2.5 tip was way too big. They did say I could lower the paint volume and that would probably work. They also said I had the air pressure adjusted wrong and I need to have 29 psi with the trigger pulled, I had it set at 29 psi with the gun off so it was around 10 psi when painting. He said that was causing the orange peel. Maybe I should have taken a painting class, LOL. He suggested a 1.8 nozzle for painting epoxy primer so I ordered one from them, better safe than sorry. So it will be a few days until I get the nozzle before I attempt to paint again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 (edited) I still have some block sanding to do and of course paint, if I ever pick a color. But here is the car on the ground with the molded flares and side skirts. Please excuse the poor picture quality, no clue what happened Edited August 3, 2010 by deja Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nullbound Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 What did you do for the 5 lug? By the way love the way those vents look on the side of the front fenders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 I bit the bullet and got Modern Motorsports setups for both the front and rear, its only money, LOL. It was just easier that way and the fronts don't have the 3/4" offset like using Datsun parts do. The fronts also came with bearings and seals so the it really wasn't that bad money wise. The rears on the other hand are very expensive and do not come with bearings but they really nice. The fender vents are 'Cuda vents. What did you do for the 5 lug? By the way love the way those vents look on the side of the front fenders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Very nice and thanks for the info. I might just end up swapping in a solid rear end for that price... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deja Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 If you're building a drag car a straight axle is certainly a good option. But I don't have the ability to fabricate that and wouldn't want to give up the IRS anyway just to get 5 lug wheels. Very nice and thanks for the info. I might just end up swapping in a solid rear end for that price... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOTHALOSISM Posted August 5, 2010 Share Posted August 5, 2010 Its just going to be a showcar / drag weekend car. I will do another Z when my son is old enough and make it a road corse car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.