high comp. turbo setup detonation?

[Tony D]

If you are serious about wanting to learn how to tune a Haltech, go to school.

 

Seriously. EFI101 is in Temecula, and they have CLASSES on each of the major EMS systems out there. It's just a matter of making the time to get there for their class schedule.

 

They have the dyno, the instructor is right there, you get classroom instruction on what the EMS is doing and then go tune (if you want to) on your own vehicle!

 

Anybody in the SoCal area that has an EMS system and wants to learn the ins and outs really needs to look those guys up, they have been around forever, and have travelling classes. All it takes is an e-mail or phone call.

 

You wouldn't believe it's this easy to just CLICK HERE

 

Seems to me there was a place in San Diego that had Haltech, something like "Performance EFI" or something like that---I won't make all the links for you, you got to do something yourself!

[280zbeeT]

that sounds amazing, and second I can afford it I will join and go.. but I just cant afford that right.. Ive looked all over google asking friends, no one seems to know haltech, except 2 people I know, 1 is I dont trust very much with my car.. the other I havent seen work on a car before, I just know he has 280z himself and tunes his own track car hes the one who said could work on my car with me and get it going.. the guy who said I should rebuild my car with the dished pistons and get it tuned in order for it to last, which I agree with but I dunno rather just use what I got and rebuild the other block with the dished pistons on the side..

[CarJway]

Getting the car to start/idle/timing setup is probably the hardest thing to do, when you are not familiar with the engine... But this has already been done for the tuner, so the Haltech is like most other EFI's out there. 3D Map, tabular values, 2D Scale, etc. Find anyone that tunes an AEM, and they will have no problem with the E11. There are PLENTY of people out there that tune AEM's.

[skirkland1980]

Why does everyone use/recommend a 2mm head gasket? It reduces quench. I would use a 1mm head gasket and use meth/H2O injection. You can use the Haltec to trigger it. There is a company here in Atlanta that manufactures the kits at reasonable prices.

[bradyzq]

Why does everyone use/recommend a 2mm head gasket? It reduces quench. I would use a 1mm head gasket and use meth/H2O injection. You can use the Haltec to trigger it. There is a company here in Atlanta that manufactures the kits at reasonable prices.

 

In general, ECU controlled water/meth can work, but in this case, NOOOOOOO!

 

I don't know what happened with this situation over the last few months, but adding water/meth to the mix when cam timing, base ignition timing, and basic boost control aren't taken care of, to say nothing about actual tuning, is adding fuel to the fire.

[280zbeeT]

well, I ended up sending my haltech e11v2 in, and the whole reason I didnt have spark was because my Ignition 1 driver was blown, so haltech repaired it and I Should be getting it back any day now.. I also switched out the spring to a 9psi spring, installed a msd6a as well. I found out that previously (apparently becuase the previous owner was waiting to upgrade the ignition) the car was tuned for 14psi and only tuned to 4500rpm. Now, since the engine it was tuned with was dished pistons on a f54 block, the only thing I need to do right now is some rewiring, finding a person to tune the haltech and figure out if I really need even get a retune. so things are on its way..

[Xnke]

Alright! You finally seem to be getting into the swing of things, 280zbeeT.

 

So, You've got a repaired haltech E11 on the way, and a harness that will run the car.

 

You have an MSD6A ignition box installed.

 

The move to a 9psi wastegate spring was a good one...at 9PSI, you're only slightly above stock boost.

 

Here's what you should do when you get your ECU back.

 

Plug in the ECU, and get a download to your laptop. SAVE IT on a flash drive or something.

 

Get the car started, but don't do anything but get it to idle. Check your ignition timing, and make ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN that the timing that you get from the timing light, matches what the haltec ECU says it's sending.

 

Once you've got that information, and you can confirm that the ECU and the timing light agree, You will know that your ECU is controlling your timing. Does the MSD box control any aspect of your timing at all? Or is it just a coil driver that takes an input from the ECU and outputs to the coil?

 

IF THE MSD6A IGNITION BOX CHANGES YOUR TIMING, YOU DO NOT NEED, AND DO NOT WANT IT.

 

Ok. So at this point, your engine should be running, and you should not hear any pinging or knocking or rattling. I assume that you can watch your wideband controller and see boost and air-fuel ratio at the same time...if you can't, well, watch AFR first, try to keep it about 13 or a little under for a bit. See if the car will drive gently, and not knock or ping. Low speeds, low loads.

 

Since the ECU is tuned for 4500RPM and under, and 14PSI, you WILL need to retune the engine. I'm with the others here, I'd take it to a shop and pay them to tune the car. You'll end up miles ahead in the end. ESPECIALLY if you can watch him, see what he does, and how he does it. I'll bet this is his general process:

 

Start car.

Check AFR's up and down the RPM range, watching for anomalies.

Confirm wastegate pressure.

Start load tuning the fuel map at low speeds and low RPM.

Work over the ignition map at low speeds and low RPM.

Start load tuning the fuel map and ignition map as the boost comes up, keeping detonation in check as he goes.

 

Then he'll probably fine tune it for max power and drivability last. Don't be suprised if it takes several hours to do this.

 

Drive it for a while at 9PSI, keeping data logs of the drives. When you want to up the boost, take these datalogs to him, with the car, and it'll make his job easier.

 

Sounds like you're getting closer!

[280zbeeT]

yes, I was told by Haltech since I have the change to Flat top pistons, a new spring pressure, and a slightly bigger bore on the cylinders he doesnt recommend I drive the car until it is re tuned.. now, when I take the car to get tuned, Im going to ask for a Mild tune not for performance, but for reliability, Im not concerned with power, I want her to be dependable as a daily driver..

Now, one thing I have been trying to figure out, with my build n42 .30bored block, flat top pistons, p90head with a NA cam and a regular felpro gasket, what would my compression ratio be? now, my timing is set at 20 after, do you guys recommend that be changed during the re tune? also, with this compression ratio do I have anything to worry about, or once the car is running do you think its safe to drive 7 miles to the tuners as long as I dont boost? I rather not call a tow truck, however I dont want to blow this engine so if its the best safest thing to do (which I have a feeling it is) I will do that...

 

The MSD is just a coil driver, I dont believe its setup with my timing.

 

Also, I would like to raise my RPM limit when I get a tune, what do you guys think about this?

 

Oh, also I do have a 6psi spring I bought as well, do you guys think 9psi is okay or should I put the 6psi spring in?

[280zbeeT]

Ive ben researching my ignition system options..

 

so far, I was thinking of buying LS1 coils, and doing a COP setup, setup With my MSD6a and my haltech e11v2,

I ran into these Pencil Coils from AEM, and I was wondering after all the reading I am doing, is this compatible? Or do I need a AEM CDI ignition?

 

For some reason I dont think Just the MSD6a box alone will be sufficient for my build as far as Helping to prevent detonation, so I want a Strong spark setup.. so the LS1 coils with my MSD6a box seem Very good idea at the moment any help with this please dont hesitate