ozconnection Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 Hey, I have a question about breaking in oils. I'm wondering if anyone has had any experience with Brad Penn oils and whether or not it's worth using this stuff on a freshly rebuilt L28 turbo? How long would be long enough to use the oil and then what grade of oil should I use after that? The engine will be turbocharged, run a JE ringset and have standard bearings. There is a Turbo oil pump in there and the camshaft and rockers are new. (The search function is retarded!! Put in the words 'breaking in oil' and I was told that I can't use words with 3 characters or less! Huh? Here's one: WTF!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 A Non-Detergent Oil will let all machining swarf fall to the bottom of the pan. It's not uncommon during break-in for some people to glue cow magnets to the pan, and the oil filter. The non-detergent lets all the loose bits go to the bottom and settle out, instead of being held in suspension (which is what detergent packages do). Once the rings seat (some people check compression or leakdown) go to your normal oil. Most people won't run ND oils more than 500 km. And then switch to 'regular' oil they plan to use at 1000km. There is a debate over synthetics. Porsche now starts with Mobil-1 from day one, and simply says 'live with the oil consumption'... I am pretty much in that camp as well. If the compression is sealing adequately all you do is add abnormal wear to the engine letting it seat in 'fully' and this can be over 50K km in some cases. I'd rather have that mileage as added lifetime. (BMW did tests where they were still showing compression increases and decreased ring friction at 30K miles!) What amount of oil will you use in that time period? 25 liters? Wuh! Backbreaker on the pocketbook there, eh? I digress... Give me a break, it's 1AM and I'm writing urgent reports for the Philippines...which appear to have been now totally transmitted, and so therefore I can go to sleep! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozconnection Posted August 12, 2010 Author Share Posted August 12, 2010 A Non-Detergent Oil will let all machining swarf fall to the bottom of the pan. It's not uncommon during break-in for some people to glue cow magnets to the pan, and the oil filter. The non-detergent lets all the loose bits go to the bottom and settle out, instead of being held in suspension (which is what detergent packages do). Once the rings seat (some people check compression or leakdown) go to your normal oil. Most people won't run ND oils more than 500 km. And then switch to 'regular' oil they plan to use at 1000km. There is a debate over synthetics. Porsche now starts with Mobil-1 from day one, and simply says 'live with the oil consumption'... I am pretty much in that camp as well. If the compression is sealing adequately all you do is add abnormal wear to the engine letting it seat in 'fully' and this can be over 50K km in some cases. I'd rather have that mileage as added lifetime. (BMW did tests where they were still showing compression increases and decreased ring friction at 30K miles!) What amount of oil will you use in that time period? 25 liters? Wuh! Backbreaker on the pocketbook there, eh? I digress... Give me a break, it's 1AM and I'm writing urgent reports for the Philippines...which appear to have been now totally transmitted, and so therefore I can go to sleep! Curious about the magnets on the sump....the crud just stays attached to the sump until the engine is pulled for freshening I assume? Aren't some 'over the counter' oil filters made with magnets in them for this reason? Do you recommend their use? Thanks for your input Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S130Z Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 http://slowboystore.com/brad_penn_oil/high_performance_motor_oils/bpo_sae_30_break_in_oil/i-269227.aspx Brad Penn break in oil is supposed to be the best oil on the planet for break ins. I currently have it in my engine with a freshly ground cam shaft from Isky Racing. Isky highly recomended it for the first 500 miles. SlowBoy Racing also swears by it. Oh, and it's green, so its more fun than your conventional oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inZane 240 Posted August 12, 2010 Share Posted August 12, 2010 (edited) http://slowboystore....l/i-269227.aspx Brad Penn break in oil is supposed to be the best oil on the planet for break ins. I currently have it in my engine with a freshly ground cam shaft from Isky Racing. Isky highly recomended it for the first 500 miles. SlowBoy Racing also swears by it. Oh, and it's green, so its more fun than your conventional oil. Ditto I got mine from https://www.thehotrodcompany.com Edited August 12, 2010 by inZane 240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slownrusty Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 I swear by: and used it with 10W30 Castrol GTX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zbloke Posted August 14, 2010 Share Posted August 14, 2010 I used Millers Classic Running In Oil in mine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozconnection Posted August 16, 2010 Author Share Posted August 16, 2010 I swear by: and used it with 10W30 Castrol GTX But it's an additive, rather than a specifically formulated engine oil package for engine break in. Does that make a difference? And 10W30 is very thin......my factory manual for L28's recommends 20w-50. Is yours a fully synthetic oil? Ive used synthetics before and my engine just eats the stuff, lovely staining on the rear of the car from burning that oil. I use 15W-40 ATM and its great. Thanks for your input guys!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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