Newbie question,but necessary

[jonzzer]

Okay I know it's an easy question for some, but I'm new to the world of turbos. My question is , i'm trying to hook up my autometer boost gauge but don't know what hose to tap into, the only one I can think of is before the wastegate. Also my idle is really high 1500 rpm range, is there a idle adjustment or is is it controlled anyother way. Sorry for the newbie question but it's the only things left on my turbo swap

[jc052685]

Was it not sent with instructions? If it is a Vac/Boost gauge then it will go directly to the intake manifold or vacuum line. If it is a Boost only then anywhere from the turbo to throttle body.

[jonzzer]

It's a boost vacuum gauge. I hooked it into the stock boost sensor line, but all it read was 17hg of vacuum and when I throttled it it didn't go into the boost

[S130Z]

Use one of the vacuum lines off the intake manifold. And for the idle, there should be an adjustment screw on the side of the TB(throttle body) that sets where the TB closes.

[jonzzer]

If I used a line off the intake wouldn't that only give me the vacuum not boost, I need to know how much boost it is making so I can adjst it. I guess I'll just tap into the line that goes to the intake from the turbo, after the Y

[jc052685]

No, the manifold will see boost under boost. Thats what the turbo does, create boost (pressure). Connect it to a vacuum line off the intake.

[ktm]

If I used a line off the intake wouldn't that only give me the vacuum not boost, I need to know how much boost it is making so I can adjst it. I guess I'll just tap into the line that goes to the intake from the turbo, after the Y

 

JC answered the question, but think about it a minute. Where do you think the boost from the turbo goes.....

[jonzzer]

Yes I understand that the boost goes into the intake, its just which ever hose I tap into reads 17-20 hg and when I rev it it doesn't move much. Could it be I'm not revving it enough, or that the NSX manual boost controller is turned to low (the way level they shipped it) which is not allowing boost? I swear this is the last dumb question

[S130Z]

Your car will only make good boost under a load. The turbo has to have enough exhaust gasses flowing through it to spool and build boost, just revving it is not enough. Hook the boost guage up to the intake manifold and take the car for a spin. You will notice the boost increase while driving. Please take our advice on this one.

[jonzzer]

Yes I understand that the boost goes into the intake, its just which ever hose I tap into reads 17-20 hg and when I rev it it doesn't move much. Could it be I'm not revving it enough, or that the NSX manual boost controller is turned to low (the way level they shipped it) which is not allowing boost? I swear this is the last dumb question

[goodoldjam]

The manual boost controller turned off will put you at stock boost and no lower. S130 is telling you that you have to be driving the car to build boost. I would be very careful with what your doing, if your not sure then I think you need someone to help you. You could have a very bad day if you overboost.

 

Rereading this, did your idle go up when you installed it?

I don't see any problem with you having shop install it, obviously your learning a bit. It's not something you want to mess up on. If you still have the emergency pop off and it hasn't been tampered with, you have some sort of fail safe you wont exceed 10psi.

Edited September 17, 2010 by goodoldjam

[jonzzer]

Thanks for the advice, I don't plan to change the any higher Then 8-9 psi until I get an intercooler and a bov. the idle after installing the boost gauge to a line that goes into the vcm, it went down. Its off topic but will the car run "normal" if I removed it or would it throw off the ecu, and give it a high/ rough idle?

You guys have giving me more advice than I expected and I appreciate it. Its shown me I gotta read maximum boost to really know what's going on

[Tony D]

Its shown me I gotta read maximum boost to really know what's going on

 

Go to The Great Salt Lake so you will have enough grains of salt to work with what is in Mr. Bells wonderful sales tool "Maximum Boost".

 

Remember how old that book is now and how outdated some of the mythology contained therein really is!

 

It's like reading Bob Tomlinsons book in the 80's, chock full of state-of-the-art 1970 information!

 

The guy was selling his kits, and he promotes them pretty well in the book. Some stuff is valid, but don't read it like he's the prophet. Like Jesus or Mohammed, they both had an agenda to peddle and plenty of adherents in their day.

 

But the times move on... Just know there is more out there than the book. At the time it came on the scene, it was head and shoulders over Bob's book. But it will take a while to let Corky's book go the way of Bob's. Simply because he has the internet and an advertising machine to keep peddling it out there to the unsuspecting masses of noobs thirsty for knowledge.

 

"Always regard the promises of a salesman, or the advice from one in the same light."

[S130Z]

Yes I understand that the boost goes into the intake, its just which ever hose I tap into reads 17-20 hg and when I rev it it doesn't move much. Could it be I'm not revving it enough, or that the NSX manual boost controller is turned to low (the way level they shipped it) which is not allowing boost? I swear this is the last dumb question

 

When the car is not running, does the guage read 0(zero)psi/vac? No matter how fast the engine is spinning, with no load applied on the engine, you will always read a vacuum. Can you post a picture of how you have the vacuum lines hooked up for the boost guage?

[jonzzer]

Alright got sometime to take some pics. I hooked the boost gague line up to one off the intake that feeds the vcm. It would idle around 18-20 vac. When i tested it out it would read 5-9ish psi when i would stomp on the gas, and when i wuld shift it would spike at 10+psi, which i know is not good for a stock motor(which ths is). Also when i let off the gas on that run it started to sputter/almost die so i feathered the gas and got it home, any ideas what it could've been? i haven't adjusted th boost controller at all so im thinking i hooked it up wrong but thats why im posting pics. I gotta ask someone that knows, is my wastegate acutator arm too rusted? cause it doesn't really move when i try to by hand.

[S130Z]

Be very carefull when using a manual boost controller for the first time. You want to start with it all the way closed(stock boost) and gradually add more boost.

 

As far as the poor running condition goes, check all of your intake connections and make sure that you did not create a vacuum leak anywhere. If you have a leak inbetween your AFM and intake, your ECU will get a false reading and cause the engine to run poorly.

[hughdogz]

Did it run fine between shifts before you added the manual boost controller (MBC)? If it didn't I'd do one thing at a time and just make the vac / boost gage work first.

 

When you saw it spike to 10+ psi between shifts, did you hear a big woosh with the safety pop valve releasing the boost pressure? If so, that might be why it almost died, since all that metered air was lost to the atmosphere, and the computer couldn't tell (since it uses an airflow meter instead of a MAP sensor) and went way rich.

 

The stock system already has a blowoff valve / recirculation valve device, but it's a bypass valve that goes from the j-pipe to the 5th runner in the intake manifold. Between shifts, the throttle plate closes, and the charged air isn't able to bypass the closed plate, and will cause a "water hammer" shockwave smashing back to the turbo wheel. The factory device will keep this from happening, but the RPM's will stay high when you shift and go closed throttle.

 

If you can, instead of using a zip-tie for the boost controller hookup, use the compression fitting that came with the kit. If it didn't have one, you can get one from Baxter's Auto in Tigard, maybe even at A-Boy. It will screw into the manifold since it should be a 1/8" NPT fitting.

 

It doesn't really matter if the wastgate actuator rod is rusty, as long as it doesn't bend or disintegrate, you're fine. They are somewhat hard to move by hand. You can disconnect the rod end to the wastegate puck arm to see if the wastgate can open and close freely.

 

Like S130 said, make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. Look for cracked hoses that would cause high idle and general badness.

Edited September 27, 2010 by hughdogz

[jonzzer]

Quick up date fixed boost problems . Now car sputters has no power backfires. I think it's an injector not firing or a clogged injector. First time driving it more then up and down the street. I guess that's what happens when you use old crappy gas.