BLOZ UP Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 Well, it appears to have been my oil drain. Took it off to reroute it and oil spilled out everywhere, so it was apparently backed up. I mean, it was level if not slightly downward but apparently that was enough. Now it's back to the way it was before the headgasket job and everything seems fine. No more smoke. My tune is still pretty far off. I've fixed some rough timing values and tried autotune again, but my target AFRs are just too extreme. The car does not like anything leaner than stoich, and even stoich is pretty rough, but it still might have timing issues as well. I need to compare it to a stock NA timing map because now I'm just arranging things in the dark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 Autocross this sunday, I plan on being there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 (edited) I went, I saw, my car died. I did get 2.5 runs in though. Here's the second one with an foreboding stall right at the start signal: Edited October 28, 2014 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Here's the first run, with Woody Harrelson instructing: I'm not sure what caused the stall but I suspect fuel system problems (although looking at the fuel pressure gauge in the video, I see nothing wrong). I'm going to order a new low pressure filter whenever I find out what filter it takes just to eliminate that. I've rewired the fuel pump and increased cranking pulses and it starts a lot better, but it still stalled a couple times. It might be that the idle is too low, since it was pretty cold when I tried it. I guess I need a fast idle valve. As for why it wouldn't restart later during the event, I'm pretty sure it was low battery voltage. Even with a jump it wasn't cranking that fast. The fuel pump wasn't coming on because the ECU was resetting constantly. Actually, now that I think about I should have a log of the whole thing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 Got some TTT tow hooks, but can't figure out how the front one's supposed to mount. Haven't put either of them on. Checked timing, it's been 20 degrees too advanced this whole time. Oops. Explains hard starts and kickback. Doesn't explain how it was 20 BTDC before the headgasket blew at idle and 40 now, unless I measured wrong before the headgasket, which would explain why the headgasket went in the first place. Yet that doesn't explain the rough idle and tuning problems that have only cropped up after the headgasket job. Ugh, hopefully I haven't injured any internals. About to turn in my wrench card. Runs like a champ now, too bad the season's over. Might be one more autox later this month, weather permitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malibud Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 I like the video nice to see all aspects Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted November 15, 2014 Author Share Posted November 15, 2014 (edited) Took for possibly the last drive this season. Got a little tuning done. Breaks free in second gear at 10psi. Spent the rest of the trip too scurred to give it any gas. Didn't want to pull a Phil. Edited November 15, 2014 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 I drove my friend's LS1 Miata over the holiday break. It was a lot of fun. So much fun I'm considering swapping the VG33 for it. We'll see. Going to get the VG33 dyno tuned first, then I'll see if I need more power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datz44 Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Amazingly built machine. In the SCCA Run 2, was the 360 drift part of the run? or you fooling around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Amazingly built machine. In the SCCA Run 2, was the 360 drift part of the run? or you fooling around. Thanks! That was me turning too soon after braking hard, causing a weight shift that threw me off. I knew I was late braking and it would probably fish tail as I turned in but I didn't expect a total spin out. It's not very forgiving in that regard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 It's been hibernating. Weather hasn't been bad and the salt's been washed away so I might take it out for a Cars & Coffee meet around here. Also trying to get it dyno tuned if the weather and salt stay away. Going to pick up a Harbor Freight trailer and build it into an autoX trailer. Also, I contacted SpeedHut and they offer a "cruise control" output for their speedometers (GPS, at least), but NOT if it's a dual gauge like mine. It looks like they will let me convert mine back to a single, and give me some credit to get a separate gauge. Not bad! Now I can get a speed signal to Megasquirt, which lets me do a whole bunch of neat stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted January 1, 2015 Author Share Posted January 1, 2015 (edited) Went to the Cars and Coffee here. Was a bit late. Car ran fine. Autotuned it a bit but not a whole lot of changes went in. Noticed a few things wrong that I had forgotten about: Fuel pump hates life. Need that fancy Fuel Lab one. Fuel filter needs replacing. Fuel leaks out rear sump. Fuel tank sucks, need a replacement. Small oil leak at sump, oil seems to have leaked while parked for a while. Transmission needs more fluid. Transmission is worn out (2nd and 3rd gear synchros). Wiring in engine bay is a mess. Need PCV. Need to wire in knock and other MS2 stuff. Need real crank pulley instead of eBay one. Exhaust leak, i think at the heads somewhere. only under load. Passenger side rockers/lifters are awfully loud. Need to reinstall horn. Need to fix brights indicator. Not sure if I should get dyno time with the exhaust leak. Not really sure if it is an exhaust leak, or just my manifolds are noisy under load. I've tightened all the header bolts. I did update my MS2 from 3.2.1 to 3.3.3. A bunch of new settings to play with and it looks like they fixed some bug with trigger wheel timing. And guess what? My engine was about 20 degrees too advanced after updating... I swear this better be the last mysterious timing change... Edited January 7, 2015 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Picked up the HF trailer. Turns out it's made by Changzhou Nanxiashu. My origin certificate states 1250 GVW, and 157 lbs of that is the trailer itself. Subtract the two and you get 1093 lbs. payload capacity, which is listed as 1090 lbs. on HF's website. Anyway, If you use the 20% coupon that comes out every so often, you save $46 off the $230 price tag. Picked up the 1-7/8" ball I supposedly need: And that's it. Looking at superbrightleds.com to trick it out with a bunch of LEDs. Out the door with the trailer, fees, hitch ball (and free flashlight) and tax: $208.42. That's a deal. Need to pick up some bearing grease and spray paint from the parts store and go to town tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted January 5, 2015 Author Share Posted January 5, 2015 (edited) Assembled the trailer. Took about 2 hours or so. Pretty straightforward. So, since NJ doesn't have safety inspections anymore, people can just build these trailers, register them, then drive them around... Kind of scary. One of two tips I heard online was to make sure the frame was square when assembling. I spent the time and tightened incrementally to make sure it was. The diagonals were 62-7/8", IIRC. The second tip said to clean out the hubs real good and repack the bearings. My bearings came pretty well packed with grease, but the hubs did have paint chips and metal debris from drilling the grease zerk. I cleaned that all out and shoved them on the axle. One of the sides took a sledge and wood block to get going. Also, I tightened the hub castle nut after putting on the wheel. It's easier to check the play with the wheel on. And... done: Went to HF to get some more stuff, reusing the 20% off an free item coupons to get: Extension cord since I ruined one that was hanging on my grinder Hangers so I don't have to hang them on the grinder Free tape measure. Swing jack since lifting and moving the trailer around by the tongue got old soon after I assembled it LED trailer light kit (which was surprisngly expensive) D-rings and ratcheting straps to hold down a light tool box or something (will need to get bigger ones for any tires, if that's how I am going to hold them) Corrugated wire loom to nicely tuck the trailer wiring up. The stock wiring harness and LED kit came with crappy crimp connectors. I plan on soldering and heat shrinking all the connections. Next step was to remove and drill out the bumper: But my cordless drill batteries all died (about time to get a new one). I installed some of the lights and wiring, but will need to wait for the other lights to arrive to finish up. I tried some of the yellow paint out in the corner, but the weather's pretty bad so I don't know if it will dry correctly. It's a good enough match, though! All that's left is: Paint the wheels and frame Install the rest of the lights and wiring. Add a harness to the vehicle side. Drill and reinforce the ball mount, and reinstall the bumper Make some type of flooring. Probably going to be aluminum. Make or buy a box to put stuff in. For the box I am thinking I'll make it out of aluminum. This way I can have it bolt to and extend through the bottom of the frame bit for some extra depth. I have no way of cutting large sheets of aluminum very straight at the moment though, so I'm not too sure yet. I really need a plasma cutter. Edited January 5, 2015 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted January 7, 2015 Author Share Posted January 7, 2015 Installed the HF trailer lights and worked on routing the wiring on the trailer a bit but the weather has gotten cold. Might take a break for a while. Will try and get the bumper drilled out, since I can turn on the heat in the garage, but my drill batteries are nearly useless. Ordered a bunch of crap for it: Weld on battery holder LED utility lights lots of corrugated loom since I can't find any left over. 8 GA disconnect Reverse beep-beep thing (as a joke... but it's half way to too far now) 400 Watt inverter Still waiting on the other clearance LEDs. Also, I took out my speedometer and mailed it off to Speedhut for modifications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted January 11, 2015 Author Share Posted January 11, 2015 Well, I got everything. Not pictured is the weld on battery tray and backup alarm. But it's way too cold to do any work. Maybe I could do some wiring and drilling on the car in the garage, but the space heater doesn't seem able to keep up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 Was less cold than it has been the past few days. I got in as much as I could. Chemically abrased the trailer and wheels and did a few coats of yellow and flat black. Wheels look good despite water dripping on them between coats from my gutter. After a few more coats: Then I realized I forgot to weld on the battery tray before painting, so I grinded off some (not enough) paint and welded it on. I fiddled a bit with wiring on the car. I have just enough 8 GA wire to go from the battery to the trailer, it looks like. I have a 8 GA disconnect that I'll put in. I also realized that I'll need some diodes or some kind of wiring adapter to get the separate turn/brake signals to the trailer (which is a combination brake/turn deal). There's a convenient hole here for trailer wiring: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted January 12, 2015 Author Share Posted January 12, 2015 (edited) Also tested out the single LED lights. Black is positive! I hope I remember... The utility lights are pretty damn bright. Should be cool. Here's a shitty diagram I made, to help with all the backasswards wire colors: Edited February 8, 2015 by BLOZ UP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Wheels turned out alright. Trailer needs another few coats on the tongue bar and battery tray. Here it is with the trailer battery (which just happens to be my old 280Z battery): Next up is wiring if it's warm enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLOZ UP Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 Autocross season will be start in about a month! So since it was somewhat warm out (40 degrees F), I got a bit of work done on the trailer. Should do some more today. Finished drilling the bumper. That took a while--my drill batteries (and probably the motor) are worn out so it took many recharge cycles. Installed and mocked up: Like many reviews and build threads said, the fender metal is pretty bad quality. The good news is that it's easy to drill! Here it is attached to the bumper for the first time: I have a slight problem with the trailer jack: I'll have to move it. Not sure where, as the battery tray prevents it from moving back unless I ditch the clamp and weld it to the bar. I could put it within the frame on the tongue bar, but that limits my options for flooring. I may end up ditching it and getting/making a simple kick stand type deal. Not sure. I had some more photos of it but I keep getting blurry photos with this new camera. Next up is wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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