RebekahsZ Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Yes your new axles will still work, so go for it. Keep an eye on eBay. Several CLSD diffs or carriers have been sold for between $300 and $600. Shipping is usualy 80 bucks nation wide. If you decide you want to go vlsd, I have one that I can sell. You would want to put it in your case because my case is really rusty-like big flakes. I have the vlsd axles too (they are different). The inner cv housing has a different length splined portion. I would just be patient and a CLSD will turn up. Just keep your eyes peeled and surf eBay daily. You didn't get ripped on your open diff, that is pretty much the going rate. Is the diff in your car open or welded? Is there no ratio stamped on the ring gear?' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 (edited) If that differential you have is in good shape - most are from my experience you can swap out the open carrier and put the Power Brute LOM59-12 in its place and have a good CLSD. Not very difficult to do and IMO better off then trying to find a CLSD on Ebay or a wreaking yard. The conversion has been well documented here on HybridZ and is a good alternative. IF you can find an OEM CLSD and want to rebuild it the clutch disks and spacers are extremely difficult to source. This is what I have read over the years. The CLSD's are extremely rare and the internals are rarer. Danno74Z http://www.precisiongear.com/powerbrute.htm Edited June 17, 2012 by Danno74Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to look for another z31t diff though. I can find one cheaper than any carrier i could buy. Plus, I already have the clutches for the upgrade... On the upside, I got my M2 axles together today... whew, what a mess. I still need to get the clamps secured, but i need a better tool to do it with. ? I then tried to get the axles out of the diff, but they weren't cooperating..... any suggestions? I tried to use pry bars, but i'll get a slide hammer tomorrow if i have to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 I've got a thread on this (axle removal) somewhere in drivetrain with picture and everything. Use a cold chisel as a wedge or ramp. It works great and even works when the diff is in the car. Slide the chisel between the axle and the diff housing. Do you still need those part numbers for boots? If using the Rockford band clamps, be sure to do a dry fit with all clamps first. The inner CV uses a different large clamp than the outer CV. I'm still having trouble with this because Rockford won't sell just the clamps in quantities less than 100ea (costs $100) and there are 3 different sizes. I can't seem to get any of the inner CV bands. It seems to me that they have the part numbers backwards for the inner and outer boots. Part numbers: 626-22 Boot Kit-Inboard, 175-21 Boot Kit-Outboard. I think the inner/outer is backwards. The kits come with boots, clamps and blue grease. The kits are marked "Motor Master" so maybe they supply to Rockford? Several of my boot kits have been missing the large clamps and I still can't seem to get the inboard/outboard thing straight. I bought Rockfords clamp pliers for $32, but I bet you could do just as well with some wire cutters that bite on the end, as opposed to diagonal wire cutters that bite on the side. They may call them lineman's pliers or something like that. They look like a little pinchers or a claw and out to be available at a good hardware store. The Rockford pliers haven't done a very good job, so I'm buying the pliers before I do any more. For temporary to get my car on the road, I used good old screw type hose clamps from the local parts store. The big ones are either 3 or 4 inch clamps. I really like Rockfords clamps, if I can find another source of supply, I'll get more, but not top priority. I need the part number stamped on the inner large clamps to move forward, but I can't pry it out of Rockford. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 This is more of the tool I was referring to: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Economy-CV-Joint-Clamp-Banding-or-stapping-Tool-with-stainless-cv-joint-bands-/130620347331?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item1e699453c3&vxp=mtr#ht_1605wt_1270 I'm going to get back to this project later this afternoon. Going to get my new truck tinted here in a few, and then on to the sound system! (priorities, right?) I tried the chisel method yesterday with no luck. My exhaust is all up in that area, so that might have to come off. I'm just hoping that when i had a friend weld my spider gears that the axles didn't get welded in as well? Time will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Oh....that would suck. Once you have the axles out and clean the old grease off of the place where the seals are, they pop in and out much easier (if they aren't welded in!). The first time you remove them is the hardest, then it is easy after that. I've seen the write up on that banding tool. Please let me know how it goes and also a source for the bands. I REALLY like how easy the Rockford bands are, they just don't have a good means to provide bands only - and I screw things like that up all the time. I mean, what happens if you crimp something wrong and it self-destructs?? You go to the shelf and get another one, but what if you can't get one? I ran my old u-joint axles with regular hose clamps on the new boots for years without incident. I'm gonna keep using them on this new kit too, except on the outer because of clearance with the swaybar. The CLSD with the drag slicks is freakin insane! No squal, no chirp, just rocket-like thrust (I'm not dropping clutch). If you can't get those axles out, just use that open diff for now with the new axles. That will keep you from grenading your new axles. At the drag strip, I usually got both wheels working even without LSD. I really only needed LSD for autocross because of unloading of the inside tire in turns. If you go straight, LSD is a little over-rated. Don't buy that advice you are getting. Stock Z31 CLSD diffs and carriers have been all over ebay lately. The VLSDs there now are way over priced. In the past month I've seen 2 stock carriers without a case and about 5 complete CLSDs. I now nave 2 CLSDs (sorry one is in car and other is for spare), 2 VLSD, one open R200 and a CLSD R180. I accumulated all that in about 3 months of keeping my eyes open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 Oh....that would suck. Once you have the axles out and clean the old grease off of the place where the seals are, they pop in and out much easier (if they aren't welded in!). The first time you remove them is the hardest, then it is easy after that. I've seen the write up on that banding tool. Please let me know how it goes and also a source for the bands. I REALLY like how easy the Rockford bands are, they just don't have a good means to provide bands only - and I screw things like that up all the time. I mean, what happens if you crimp something wrong and it self-destructs?? You go to the shelf and get another one, but what if you can't get one? I ran my old u-joint axles with regular hose clamps on the new boots for years without incident. I'm gonna keep using them on this new kit too, except on the outer because of clearance with the swaybar. The CLSD with the drag slicks is freakin insane! No squal, no chirp, just rocket-like thrust (I'm not dropping clutch). If you can't get those axles out, just use that open diff for now with the new axles. That will keep you from grenading your new axles. At the drag strip, I usually got both wheels working even without LSD. I really only needed LSD for autocross because of unloading of the inside tire in turns. If you go straight, LSD is a little over-rated. Don't buy that advice you are getting. Stock Z31 CLSD diffs and carriers have been all over ebay lately. The VLSDs there now are way over priced. In the past month I've seen 2 stock carriers without a case and about 5 complete CLSDs. I now nave 2 CLSDs (sorry one is in car and other is for spare), 2 VLSD, one open R200 and a CLSD R180. I accumulated all that in about 3 months of keeping my eyes open. Don't rub it in! I'm gonna take another stab at getting the axles out today... hopefully be a little more fruitful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 Surprise! I decided I wanted to put the LS1 in while i had time/ space. took all of 90 minutes to get here, just need my cherry picker back... loaned it to a friend doing a turbo 5.3 lsx swap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 Well I got the 5.3 out, swapped all the accessories, oil pan, valve covers, etc, installed the engine and transmission in just under 8 hours. Theres probably a good hour or two to get everything buttoned up, but the hard stuff is done. I still am looking for a Z31 CLSD, if anyone knows where to find one.... I have run into dead ends, cant even locate one now. Also, where can I buy a GOOD tool for putting CV boot clamps on? The POS that the parts store sold me is a no-go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdeezs Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 quick google search: http://www.zorotools.com/g/00044697/k-G3377631?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword}&gclid=CLnShNL537ACFQkaQgodnjyu3A Looks like it has the lil nub that presses against the pinched section as you squeeze to keep it nice and tight/secure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 22, 2012 Share Posted June 22, 2012 That is the tool used to crimp the Rockford-style clamps. I was of the impression that you had a different type of band. Honestly, I'm doing fine with regular screw-type hose clamps. Daily drove on them all week and just got back from the track - no trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted June 27, 2012 Author Share Posted June 27, 2012 MAN i could throw something right now. Seems like every time i fix one thing, i find 6 more wrong. I was banding my cv boots today, and noticed that one of them had split like an inch! ... So i guess i'll be ordering a whole set. On a better note, the engine and trans and DS are in, rear struts are ready to go back in, basically all I'm waiting for is my 92mm throttle body, and i guess now some CV boots. I cleaned the old ones up really nice and inspected them... no flaws whatsoever, so i thought i could use them. I was wrong. The whole rush is that my tuner has a VERY limited time frame, and the longer i push it back the more likely i'll have to go somewhere else, which is a no go in my book. Not to mention I'm going to Des Moines to look at places to live on monday, and still need to go back to my parents' place 3 hours away to sign loan papers for my truck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 No. But i'm super pissed that i payed $150 for it.... from a junk yard... so i cant return it. I realize its an open diff, but it has a 3.54 ratio? I checked it last night after i saw what it was. Question: Will the 300zx axle shafts work in my stock 78 r200 diff? Because i have that part of the conversion ready to assemble, along with the stub axles and companion flanges. At least that way i could get rid of the bad u-joint sounds... even if the diff will still be bitching at me. Any help please? Yes, I put a set into an early R200 long nose open differential. 3.54:1 is a good ratio; I would think even with mt6 in place. They are not too common. G Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 Josey, I'm running a q45 diff which is the same ratio 3.54 and it works much better than the 3.9 I used to have. Primarily use 4th & 5th at the track [Watkins Glen]. Turns about 1600rpm at 60 and 1800rpm at 70 both in 6th gear. DP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 28, 2012 Share Posted June 28, 2012 I can put a good used set of boots on the mail Friday for free if it will help you. I can send you all four as a gift. Pm me an address if you want them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted June 28, 2012 Author Share Posted June 28, 2012 I can put a good used set of boots on the mail Friday for free if it will help you. I can send you all four as a gift. Pm me an address if you want them. Thanks Keith, but I just ordered a new set. Dave, I was in the middle of banding those boots when I called you. I came back to the house and on here, and found my answer. Everyone else, Its not that I don't like the ratio, I don't like the spooled effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUNNY Z Posted July 3, 2012 Author Share Posted July 3, 2012 (edited) Well two of the four boots showed up today. I had a bit of an issue with one of my stub axles when I was installing it. I must have gotten a bad axle nut, and it destroyed the threads on my stub axle. (yes its crazy, and no i didn't cross thread it). I had to take it off with a torch because my friend's 1" impact wouldn't budge it. Other than that, Things are going ok. I got the new motor all in, and diagnosed the one small issue i had with the e-fan (cooked the high speed relay) - The moral of this story is, don't use a Taurus fan. It pulls around 50+ amps when the LOW speed kicks on, and it cooked my 60A relay on the high speed. Little picture of the new engine all nestled in. New specs: 346" LS1 11.4:1 CR AFR 205 heads Fast 90 Intake Nick williams 92mm TB Vengeance Racing VRX4 Cam - 228/230 .588/.592 on a 112 TEA dual gold valve springs ARP head bolts LS2 timing chain LS6 Oil pump This engine (minus the 90/92) went 11.5x in my 3500# camaro. It should be up 25-30 horse from there since it was choked pretty bad up top. It would be an absolute embarrassment if this engine didn't make 450++ rwhp, and nearly that much tq. Plus, it will be losing ~80 # from the aluminum block, which puts me under 2700# . Dis gon be fun. Thats all for now. I'll get my axle back from the machinist on thursday, and hopefully have everything else in order that I can push it onto a trailer and take it to the tuner's. I've only been waiting to do this for two weeks now.... Edited July 3, 2012 by SUNNY Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4nsm0l3m4n Posted July 3, 2012 Share Posted July 3, 2012 I used 70 amp fuse and relays with a taurus fan. bullet proof and crazy good cooling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdeezs Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 I used two cheap 30amp relays in parallel...no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danno74Z Posted July 4, 2012 Share Posted July 4, 2012 Sunny Z The LS1 looks great in there! I guess I'm a little confused...what happened to the 5.3 and why did you go to the 5.7 LS1? Did you find a CLSD yet? Happy 4th Danno74Z The big forest fire just north of where I live is contained. Man is it dry and hot out here in CO this summer. As I write this it is 98 and about 5% humidity. One blows hot air in the hills and a fire starts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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