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LS/T56/240z Project Mentor Wanted


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Your kidding? Nobody has called?? Well i will have to change that soon. As for the wiring I think you did a great job but i wasent there for all the wrench throwing haha. Im curious about how you setup the bulkheads for the main sources of power/ignition. That looks really clean. About this clutch thing I hope it gets fixed! Im not looking forward to it haha. By chance have you tried changing the T O bearring? Did you ever try what sunny said about jacking the back end up and seeing if the wheels spin? Well im off to prep my motor bay and work on doing a test fit of my motor. :)

Jim

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After driving car around town for a week (clutch break-in), I hit the road for some shake-down/reliability testing. Picked up Rebekah from college and brought her home then drove her back; 3 hours each way. Little did I know that the return trip would be in 3 hours of constant, driving rain. 6 hours in a tin can with no mufflers, skinny front-runners and wide rears, no interior, no sound proofing, no heater or defrosters, no wipers. It was awesome. And on the 8th day God created Rain-Ex. Ready to start challenging the clutch with some power/rpm.

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Edited by RebekahsZ
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  • 2 weeks later...

Just some new pictures. I got a good deal on another set of draglites to make a set of street(rain) worthy "big-n-littles". Needed something to do with my old radial front runners since I'm racing with super light bias plys at the strip. Tire combo is 155/80/15 front, 235/60/15 rear.

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Edited by RebekahsZ
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I post so much, I'm always afraid the moderators will get me for pics too big. Use your screen controls to blow them up if needed. If there is something you want me to photo and send to you, I'd be happy to do it in a PM directly to you. Thanks for the compliments.

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  • 2 months later...

It has been a while since I posted in the projects forum. Finished the racing season with a trip to a local 1/4-mile track where car laid down a best time of 11.0 at 126mph. I was happy with that for my first year after the engine swap, so I parked the car for winter "upgrades." Since then I have converted a 3.54 to CLSD and that should go in the car today. Other goals this weekend include pushing camber plates all the way in (done) to see if the shortened rear axles need additional shortening before setting car up with johnc's autocross alignment. Also designing and fabbing front droop limiters and designing a driveshaft hoop. Gotta design exhaust system and get components on order for that. That's probably enough for sat and sun. Before spring, car needs baseline dyno and tune and to set to autocross setup. Gonna go to longer coil springs-they are adjusted full up and car is still too damn low for the dragstrip return tracks around here-dont want to trash an oil pan. Hope to race all next summer (multisport) with as little time on the jack stands as possible. Reliability trouble in first season was limited to warped pressure plate due to driver error, and a blown fuse (although both of those took me a long time to figure out). Next winter will be the winter of safety mods: roll cage or maybe just a 6-point bar, axle hoops, billet stubs, external electrical shutoff, steel bellhousing, metal valve stems, lengthened wheel studs and open lug nuts, and whatever else. I'm gonna want to have car ready to race at any track without getting hassled.

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Got the 3.54 installed completely and the vent line attached to the new puke tank.  Finished rear droop limiter brackets-will finish the fronts then order straps from a 4X4 place.  Pushed rear camber plates in to about 3 degrees negative and test fit street tires and autocross tires-no rubbing.  Ran out of 3/16" steel plate for front frame rail "scabs" to reduce jackstand damage.  I worked form 5pm to 1am-sure seems like I should have gotten more done.

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Truck is in the shop, so I put Z-car on the ground and drove to work today.  CLSD banged on first left turn, then on first right turn, then all was well, with no banging on trip to Subway for lunch.  Car (seems) much more mellow with the 3.54.  I don't have that much experience playing with different ratios, but it dropped rpms a lot.  First gear now has a role to play.  Time will tell how my 60' times suffer.  If anybody falls in love with my differential puke tank, I had is custom made at Alabama Hose in Muscle Shoals, Alabama.  Cost?  I bartered for medical services (removal of metal from eye).  I got the better end of the deal.

Edited by RebekahsZ
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Finished the front droop limiter brackets (will take to be welded on Monday).  Finished frame rail reinforcement plates/jacking points.  Removed straight "cattle catcher" to protect oilpan and fabbed a triangular cattle catcher (to pitch road debris to the side rather than trappping it under my front crossmember.  Cleaned garage.  Helped my buddy with his AC Cobra replica.  Took my daughter to supper.  Tomorrow is to put together sketches for driveshaft loop to take to my fabricator so he can get all the welding done for me when I drop car off for the week.  Big goal for tomorrow is to put together my exhaust parts list.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Car is at Red Wrench Hotrods in Muscle Shoals, Alabama for welding work described above-I won't see it back for a week or two.  Started thread looking for a favorite porta bandsaw to buy in prep for exhaust system fabrication.  Ordered exhaust system parts:  2.5" v-band kits, 3.0" v-band kits, 2.5" stainless braided flex, un-coated JTR headers to modify for V-bands, QTP dual 2.5" electric exhaust cutouts with wiring harnesses and extra flanges.  Have Borla XR-1 3" muffler already.  Will wait to order mandrel bent tubing and hangars until car is back from fabricator. Plan is to use stainless v-bands and flanges to avoid rust in the connections, mild steel tubing (I'm finding tighter radius bends in mild steel than in stainless), then when entire system is mocked up I'll send/carry it out to JetHot or similar company for ceramic coating.  Gonna be pricey.

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Pics of front droop limiter brackets.  These "sandwich" the sheetmetal of the inner fender below the strut tower where the metal is 2 layers thick.  Once I get them bolted onto car I'll be ordering straps.  Whit Lyles as Red Wrench hotrod shop in Muscle Shoals is a great welder-looks like aviation quality welding to me (what looks like voids in this photo are not voids, the are just shadows caused by the flashbulb). 

 

Wish I had some clue of how much droop I should allow as a starting point to adjust from-anyone?

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Edited by RebekahsZ
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RebekahsZ:

 

Very much interested in the droop limiters both front and rear.  I need to do the same to my 240Z to eliminate the float of the springs when the struts are drooped.  Please post more photos of the completed installation both front and rear of the upper and lower limiter brackets and the source of the limiter cables.  I purchased an Aviation Nico-press crimper especially to fabricate the limiter cables.  Thanks much for showing your work.

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Got droop limiter brackets mounted and ordered some straps, so that job is almost finished.  Looks like 10" for back and 9" for front.  V-bands, exhaust cutouts and various other exhaust parts arrived.  Cutouts are from QTP.  I'm gonna go ahead and order a set of Doug's Headers cutouts too and return the one I don't use.  Seems each design has its merits and limitations.  i have to remember, I'm runnning these to make noise first and power a distant second.  Cleaned and painted front swaybar mount reinforcement and jacking plates.  Painted cattle catcher.  Swapped my front springs from 8" to 10" and raised front ride heighth 1 inch from where I had it before (being overly low looks cool but is a royal PITA.  The fabricator made me another clutch master cylinder support rod-with only one on one side, the master cylinder was wagging like a dog due to firewall flex.  Much better now.  Pushed front camber plates all the way in, preparing for autocrossing hopefully in March.

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