voong413 Posted November 5, 2010 Share Posted November 5, 2010 i'm currently trying to wire up a 81 l28et in a s30. does anybody know how this wire and condenser is connected to the distrubutor on a 81 280zx turbo? been searching through this forum and google pics for the pass 2 hours with no luck =( thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 (edited) i'm currently trying to wire up a 81 l28et in a s30. does anybody know how this wire and condenser is connected to the distrubutor on a 81 280zx turbo? been searching through this forum and google pics for the pass 2 hours with no luck =( thanks! Just looked thru all my dismantle photos to see if I had a good shot of the Dizzy itself - not so much... Here's a pic of the coil and condenser - exactly how it sits in an '81 280ZXT. It comes off the Black/white wire that runs to the coil - through the condenser - and then runs to a spade on the distributor. It definately does on my '83 engine (but it's been a couple of years since I pulled the '81 engine - I don't have it anymore). My dizzy has a spade for that wire - front side just under the lip... As I recall, My son's '76 280 (before the turbo swap) had the same layout - I'm pretty sure it's the same for all the EFI Z's. As I understand it, the condenser is used to reduce electrical noise on the EFI wiring (signal wires to the ECU). Don't know if it's absolutely critical, My son and I both use the condenser as shown in the wiring diagram, but our engines also seem to run fine if it's not connected... Edited November 7, 2010 by cgsheen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voong413 Posted November 11, 2010 Author Share Posted November 11, 2010 thanks for the pic! but i couldn't locate the spade anywhere on the dizzy. i tried starting the car today without the wire hook'd up. i didnt get any power to my fuel pump relay nor my ignition. where does everybody else tap in to get their switched power from? and is it possible to move this post to ignitions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted November 13, 2010 Share Posted November 13, 2010 You need to go to carfiche.com (or xenon's site) and download the 280zx FSM and go through the turbo wiring diagram. The ECU and parts of the EFI system are powered through the EFI Relay. That Relay is powered through the IGN Switch. The ECU controls the Fuel pump and the Ignitor, so you need to make sure the ECU is powered properly. Basically, the EFI wiring on a 280ZXT is this: Main power (+12V) is from 2 wires (one green, one brown) that run through Fusable Links near the battery then across the firewall to the ECU (EFI) harness. (Plug #1, near ECU, 2 wire connector) - Green wire runs direct to ECU (through the 17-pin (3 row) connector) & to the Injectors. - Brown wire is "supply" voltage to the EFI Relay. The EFI relay is switched ON by the position of the IGN Switch. It's the Black/white wire on the IGN Switch that "turns on" the EFI Relay and routes +12V from the Brown wire to the ECU and other EFI components (through a Black/white "feed" wire from the relay.) That B/w wire goes to the 16-pin (2 row) connector on the ECU (2 places right across from each other) and also to the: VCM soleniods, the Crank Angle Sensor, & Fuel Pump Modulator. Most of the other wiring in the harness is "internal" - just between the ECU and it's EFI components. The only other "external" connections you should worry about is the wiring from the ECU to the Fuel Pump through the Fuel Pump Relay AND to the Ignitor. Fuel Pump Relay is "switched on" by the Blue/Red "LR" wire shown in the diagram - it originates on the larger of the 2-row ECU connectors (about mid-connector). Again, it's the ECU that turns the Fuel Pump on and off... The Fuel Pump Relay gets it's supply voltage from a Fusable link near the battery (White/Black wire "WB") so it's always powered, and it's "feed" voltage goes to the fuel pump (and, oddly enough, to the Air Regulator on the top front of the intake manifold...) through a green wire. The Ignitor is fired by the ECU using the Yellow/White "YW" wire in the diagram. It connects directly to the ECU nearly opposite the BR wire I talked about above - on the same ECU connector as the BR wire that controls the fuel pump. If your Z is pre-EFI it won't have either of these relays, you'll have to install and wire them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voong413 Posted January 5, 2011 Author Share Posted January 5, 2011 i double checked all my wirings. everything seems to be in the right place, but still no luck. my ignition relay clicks when i turn the switch, but nothing from my fuel pump relay. i have power, ground, but no signal from the (red/blue)wire coming from the ecu when i try to prime the car. which leads me to question if the ecu is getting any power. i double check the brown and green wire coming off the fusible link(12v)which was good. i was going to back probe pin 17 to see if i'm getting power off the ecu, but noticed there wasnt even a wire there. so my question is: 1. which pin from the back of the ecu is suppose to be getting power (81 280zx)? 2. how can i test if the ecu is still good 3. i'm missing a wire off the distrubutor to the coil, will this be one of the reason why the ecu isnt getting power? 4. can anybody help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 i double checked all my wirings. everything seems to be in the right place, but still no luck. my ignition relay clicks when i turn the switch, but nothing from my fuel pump relay. i have power, ground, but no signal from the (red/blue)wire coming from the ecu when i try to prime the car. which leads me to question if the ecu is getting any power. i double check the brown and green wire coming off the fusible link(12v)which was good. i was going to back probe pin 17 to see if i'm getting power off the ecu, but noticed there wasnt even a wire there. so my question is: 1. which pin from the back of the ecu is suppose to be getting power (81 280zx)? 2. how can i test if the ecu is still good 3. i'm missing a wire off the distrubutor to the coil, will this be one of the reason why the ecu isnt getting power? 4. can anybody help? The green LED in the ECU lights as soon as you switch the IGN to ON if it's powered (and operating) correctly. The Factory Service Manual (FSM) has detailed diagrams and a complete ECCS trouble-shooting section... Even without the Nissan "Consult", you can test everything. Most important is understanding the wiring and wiring differences between the earlier Z and the S130 ZXT the engine came out of. Probably the only practical way to test the ECU is to swap it into a running car. Following the ECCS trouble-shooting guide, there are MANY things you can check on the ECU and it's input/output pins... The condenser wiring from the coil location to the distributor will NOT cause the ECU to be powerless. Both Mine and my Son's L28ET swap will operate properly without the condenser connected to the dizzy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 From the '81 Turbo Supplement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voong413 Posted January 16, 2011 Author Share Posted January 16, 2011 yea I been running through the diagram and my wiring a couple times' I followed the 280zx to s30 guide for wiring' but no luck on getting ecu to turn on' I'm also getting power at the ecu from the ignition relay' so right now' my ecu won't turn on nor will my fuel pump prime' or click' I just need a way to Check the ecu b4 I condem that the ecu is broken b4 I replace it' it also looks like the ecu been worked on b4' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted January 16, 2011 Share Posted January 16, 2011 (edited) Make sure the fp control module is grounded. The case needs to be grounded. Edited January 16, 2011 by cygnusx1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted January 17, 2011 Share Posted January 17, 2011 yea I been running through the diagram and my wiring a couple times' I followed the 280zx to s30 guide for wiring' but no luck on getting ecu to turn on' I'm also getting power at the ecu from the ignition relay' so right now' my ecu won't turn on nor will my fuel pump prime' or click' I just need a way to Check the ecu b4 I condem that the ecu is broken b4 I replace it' it also looks like the ecu been worked on b4' It's the ECU that "switches" the fuel pump relay on and off... If the ECU isn't working, the fuel pump will never come on unless you jump it's relay. You need a friend nearby with a working turbo swap or a running 280ZX Turbo so you could try your ECU in their car... If you have +12v to pin 35 (and pin 27) on the ECU and GND on pin 36 (and pin 28), the Green LED should light, and there should be +12v output on pin 16 for ~5 seconds when the IGN is turned to the ON position... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voong413 Posted January 25, 2011 Author Share Posted January 25, 2011 okay' soo I check everything and it turns out to be a bad ecu' picked up an 83 ecu and plugged it right in' right away the light turns on and the fuel pump primes' go for a crank but still no start' I tried starter fluid but still no good' got the scanner in today that i got from ebay and everything lights up except for the injectors air condition control switch' the replacement ecu also came from a donor car that wouldn't spark' soo i'm not sure if its another bad ecu or ignition' starting to lose intrest of the car' seems like everytime I fix a problem' another one comes upp' can anybody help? am I suppose to change the wiring a little since I'm going from a 81 to 83? like the dropping resistor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voong413 Posted January 26, 2011 Author Share Posted January 26, 2011 fixed injector problem fixed, bad grounds. and cygnusx1 mentioned a fuel pump control module that i couldnt find on my harness which i have also seen in the 82 wiring diagram. does anybody know if it applies to the 81 turbo too? so as of right now, everything seems to be good, well according to the eccs scanner anyways minus me not getting spark. 12 volt to the black and white on the coil, and signal when i crank on the yellow and white. does anybody know of anyway to check the ignitor on the coil bracket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I'm using an '81 harness - no Fuel Pump Control Modulator... (does nothing other than control voltage to the fuel pump) Sounds like time for a replacement coil/ignitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 (edited) Mine was an 83 donor and did use the Fuel Pump Control Module until the Walbro broke its back. It modulates voltage through the ground side of the pump. Edited January 27, 2011 by cygnusx1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voong413 Posted January 27, 2011 Author Share Posted January 27, 2011 Sorry, I was using my phone in class to reply back to the forum, but thanks for the heads up. I spent half my day at picknpull looking for another ignitor with no luck, but i did come up on 2 pairs of leather seats from a Miata which was awsome for 80 bucks. I was reading in the ignition forum and came across 2 topics that caught my attention, using GM hei or coil and ignitor from a 300zxt. Can anybody tell me which would be the better choice? I'm leaning more towards coil and ignitor from 300zxt but i couldn't find any at my local junk yard. Thanks again for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted February 7, 2011 Share Posted February 7, 2011 I think I have a 280zxt ignitor and 300zxt unit dont know if you want to wait on shipping and all that. Dont go replacing parts till you troubleshooted and not crapshoot. SO check if you got 12v+ at B/W ignitor and coil + in ON position make sure they are both grounded on the chasis properally. If not than its not your ignitor dont waste your time cranking killing starter or battery. How did you do your ignition side of things? I remember there was a plug on 280zxt with allot of yellows :S make sure your using the right wires. GOODLUCK HUSSEIN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voong413 Posted February 9, 2011 Author Share Posted February 9, 2011 Thanks for the reply, as of right now i'm getting 12 volt from the from the coil and the bracket is gounded properly. I'm just not sure if i'm getting a pulse from the yellow wire to interupt for the "spark" from the ignitor, my battery died before i had the chance to check. How much were you looking for the coil shipped to 95835? thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted February 9, 2011 Share Posted February 9, 2011 follow the wires and make sure its the right pin at the ecu Like I said there is a bunch of yellow wires especially with the age yellow/white doesnt show us well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voong413 Posted February 12, 2011 Author Share Posted February 12, 2011 ::UPDATE:: So i went to the junk yard yesterday and got myself an ignitor off a na 300zx, and a new turbo coil from autozone. Threw in some starter fluid and cranked the motor, fire up for a split second and dies. I grounded all the wires and mounted the coil just to make sure everything was well grounded, cranked it again but no luck. Bought new ngk plugs and tried starting it again, more disappointment. Threw some starter fluid into the intake and cranked it for the last time, the car runs!!! but the motor quickly dies as it burns through all the starter fluid. Plugged in a 3Volt light i picked up from frys to test my injectors, all injectors connectors blink. Which brings me down to bad injectors, and my questions are there any way to clean the injectors myself, or am i going to have to buy new ones? Thanks again for the help guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 This thread has some good stuff in it. Jump to #16 for the apparent answer. You might have enough current for the lights but not enough to open the injectors. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/97671-1977-280z-fuel-injection-problem/page__p__917068__fromsearch__1#entry917068 Are you sure that you have good fuel supply and pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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