rayaapp2 Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 We triggered the bonny engine from the distributor quill, using the small e-motive wheel. As for the blocked water passage, there has been one guy here (ahem) talking about removing the internal bypasses back to the inlet of the water pump to maximize cooling flow through the block for some time now and (sniff sniff) he's feeling a bit put out that nobody has listened and immediately recognized another "lost performance cooling modification" for the L-Gata! That goes for the -3 AN lines as well. Take a look at the discussions on the #5 Cooling Thread and all will be alluded to, if not outright explained... Some people plug the return in the block with a flushseal plug, but putting aluminum in there does the same thing. Is it the same passage that Nissan plugged on the LD28 in the block itself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted December 1, 2010 Author Share Posted December 1, 2010 (edited) We triggered the bonny engine from the distributor quill, using the small e-motive wheel. As for the blocked water passage, there has been one guy here (ahem) talking about removing the internal bypasses back to the inlet of the water pump to maximize cooling flow through the block for some time now and (sniff sniff) he's feeling a bit put out that nobody has listened and immediately recognized another "lost performance cooling modification" for the L-Gata! That goes for the -3 AN lines as well. Take a look at the discussions on the #5 Cooling Thread and all will be alluded to, if not outright explained... Some people plug the return in the block with a flushseal plug, but putting aluminum in there does the same thing. I'm listening Tony! I did that mod on the other engine. I guess plugging the hole in the block might be easier. The other thing I noticed last night is that there was no thermostat in the housing, and the outlet from the thermostat cover has an aluminum washer welded to it as a flow restriction: Also, if you look closely at this photo you can see that the -8AN welded to the water pump inlet: goes to a coolant tank: Also note about the -3AN line goingfrom the same coolant tank to the other side of the engine and to the thermostat housing: The other side of the -3AN Tee goes to the top passenger side of the radiator: Edited December 1, 2010 by z-ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted December 1, 2010 Author Share Posted December 1, 2010 (edited) duplicate Edited December 1, 2010 by z-ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted December 1, 2010 Share Posted December 1, 2010 And all this is to keep the engine from over heating or is it about cooling the rear cylinders? Pete I meant to ask you, what sort of progress rate are you looking at for this build? Sometime soon or a long term thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted December 1, 2010 Author Share Posted December 1, 2010 And all this is to keep the engine from over heating or is it about cooling the rear cylinders? Pete I meant to ask you, what sort of progress rate are you looking at for this build? Sometime soon or a long term thing? The car needs to be back together by May. It also looks like it has a diesel water pump as it will not fit in another timing cover I have without the impeller hitting the timing cover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted January 10, 2011 Author Share Posted January 10, 2011 Update: Head has been disassembled, checked for flatness, and pressure tested. All tested OK. My machinist is impressed with the level of work done to the head. It is basically ready to go. Titanium valves, bronze guides, each valve spring shimmed for correct pressure. The only thing that needs to be done is the cam towers need to be align honed. I need to decide on pistons before that can be done (need to know HG thickness and shim cam towers). Here are some photos: Now I have a new set of these Cosworth pistons which I may use: But Cosworth can't find any information about them, so I need to measure the dome volume. So I blasted and painted the top of a used one, waxed it, and made an impression in fiber filler. I'll cc the impression to determine the dome volume. Once I know that, I can: - Decide if I will use them (CR??) - Determine HG thickness - Determine how much to shim cam towers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozconnection Posted January 10, 2011 Share Posted January 10, 2011 Nice engine bits and pieces....good luck with the build. Just a observation on that welded thermostat cover. The option of easily changing the restrictor is not there with the restrictor welded in. If there is to be any testing of block coolant pressures after the build and it is determined that the restrictor needs to be larger, then I guess that's not a problem than if the restrictor needs to be made smaller. (This also ties in with coolant temperature, so a balance needs to be found here, harder to achieve with a welded in restrictor.) I would have thought that a machined disc similar to the thermostat itself be used in that original position. A selection of restrictors could be made easily, with a range of hole sizes so that flow, temperature and pressure could be optimised. Another way would be to alter the water pump speed with a variety of water pump pulleys but this would be more work and expensive to set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted January 12, 2011 Author Share Posted January 12, 2011 I haven't decided how I will route the cooling yet. There wasn't a thermostat in the housing with the restriction. Sending the cam, rockers, valve springs, and lash pads out for cryo treatment later this week. Here are more pics of the Bob Sharp prepared E31 head I am using: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 And all this is to keep the engine from over heating or is it about cooling the rear cylinders? You haven't been paying close attention... they go hand-in-hand Josh. What starts at the back of the head (read the cooling thread and what we found on the dyno last run) and carries over to the rest of the engine. You have to control heat at the worst part of the engine first, and the rest won't have an issue. What pressure cap was on the radiator in the car Pete, 13, 16, 24, or higher PSI? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted January 13, 2011 Share Posted January 13, 2011 pete, does this mean the bad dog will be renamed badder dog? if you wanted to make the dampers look pretty sitting on the shelf, send them my way and i'll get them yellow zinc plated for you, my treat. david Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 You haven't been paying close attention... they go hand-in-hand Josh. What starts at the back of the head (read the cooling thread and what we found on the dyno last run) and carries over to the rest of the engine. You have to control heat at the worst part of the engine first, and the rest won't have an issue. What pressure cap was on the radiator in the car Pete, 13, 16, 24, or higher PSI? Didn't get any radiator caps with all this stuff. I know who to ask though . I'll also find out how all the -3AN lines to connected. I'm not totally sure at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted January 13, 2011 Author Share Posted January 13, 2011 pete, does this mean the bad dog will be renamed badder dog? if you wanted to make the dampers look pretty sitting on the shelf, send them my way and i'll get them yellow zinc plated for you, my treat. david No, the Bad-a**-Dog . Seriously, it will definitely have more power, but a lot of the work we are doing is to make it safer and conform to the vintage safety rules. I may take you up on that offer! Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zphilly Posted January 14, 2011 Share Posted January 14, 2011 Very nice project, Pete, some great parts you've amassed. Where did you get all this authentic Bob Sharp stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share Posted January 14, 2011 (edited) Very nice project, Pete, some great parts you've amassed. Where did you get all this authentic Bob Sharp stuff? We know the person that purchased many of the cars and parts that Bob Sharp still had a few years back. He has since sold the 240Z that Paul Newman won the 1975 C production championship in. Since this was the only S30 he had, we made an offer to buy all the S30 parts he had. He just sold the Z31 turbo Paul Newman won two GT1 championships in. It's going out to CA in February to its new owner. He still has the 280ZX TT IMSA car and the Z31 Tom Cruise raced in SCCA showroom stock class. Both are for sale if you know of anyone with a big wallet and that likes vintage racing Zs. Edited January 14, 2011 by z-ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted January 22, 2011 Share Posted January 22, 2011 came across this, this morning ebay add Dingaling ebayer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted January 23, 2011 Share Posted January 23, 2011 (edited) I picked up one of those just for grins: That's Mr. Don Potters widow. I bought a lot of stuff from her. Edited January 23, 2011 by josh817 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted January 23, 2011 Author Share Posted January 23, 2011 Same idea. Mine is either an aluminum washer, or plate aluminum that was machined and welded in. But, there wasn't a thermostat in the housing, and it was sealed that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 Latest update: Pistons are off for coating. Cam, rockers, springs, etc. are back from cryo treating. Waiting for torque plate for final honing. Nearing having everything ready for final machining. See attached spreadsheet. Make sense to everyone? comp_calc.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted January 29, 2011 Share Posted January 29, 2011 How much did you spend for cryo treating if you don't mind me asking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted January 29, 2011 Author Share Posted January 29, 2011 How much did you spend for cryo treating if you don't mind me asking? I had the following both Cryo-Treated & REM ISF: - cam - rockers - valve springs - retainers It was $240 http://www.cryosciencetechnologies.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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