allen_hammond Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I am in Charlotte, NC, and am needing a good shop to shave down a 2+2 flywheel. Can anyone recommend one? preferably in my area, or at least on the east coast!! Any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zip Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I've had good luck with these people ... $160 plus return shipping ... so $25 to ship to them, and $185 back ... $210. http://www.racetep.com/flywheel.html It's important to machine and balance. I have a lightened flywheel on my NA 2.8L build-up (25 lbs. stock / 16 lbs. after) and it's really nice. I'm glad I didn't go with one of those aluminum ones. You really get hit with shipping. If you can find someone local, that's a cheaper way to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradyzq Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 Pick up a stone and throw it. You'll probably hit a machine shop in Charlotte! They are definitely not in short supply in your town. Charlotte (Top) Aart Machine Company 710 State St Charlotte NC (704) 392-3955 Al Davis Machining, Inc. 10632 John Price Road Charlotte NC (704) 588-1919 Allied Metal Finishing, Inc. 2525 Lucena Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 347-1477 Allied Zinc Finishing, Inc. 2121 Thrift Road Charlotte NC (704) 358-3333 Amplate 7820 Tyner Drive Charlotte NC (704) 597-0688 Atlas Die, Inc. 9301 Forsyth Park Drive Charlotte NC (704) 588-1931 Automated Technology, Inc. 223 E Cama Street Charlotte NC (704) 523-2252 B W Machining, Inc. 3110 Cullman Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 334-6111 Blue Chip Machine Company 4017 Hargrove Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 399-5683 Boston Gear 3900 Westinghouse Boulevard Charlotte NC 704 588-5610 Campbell & Sons Machining, Inc. 2822 Hart Road Charlotte NC (704) 394-0291 Carolina Alignment Professionals 4600 Park Road # 300 Charlotte NC (704) 523-5550 Carolina Tractors/Hydraulics 9000 Statesville Road Charlotte NC (704) 596-8880 Carolinas Auto Machine, Inc. 2549 Lucena Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 377-4933 Charles R Bass Machine Shop 2200 N Brevard Street Charlotte NC (704) 333-8104 Charlotte Machine Company 1618 Camden Road Charlotte NC (704) 334-0841 Charlotte Plating, Inc. 417 Hebron Street Charlotte NC (704) 552-2100 Comer, Inc. 9333 Forsyth Park Drive Charlotte NC (704) 588-8400 Custom Chrome Shop 2808 Rosemont Street Charlotte NC (704) 392-3013 Custom Machine & Tool 3701 S Interstate 85 Svc Road Charlotte NC (704) 391-9325 D & L Machine & Grinding 10900 S Commerce Boulevard # C Charlotte NC (704) 588-2008 D W Enterprises 3238 Robinson Cir Charlotte NC (704) 372-0318 Delta Mold, Inc. 9415 Stockport Place Charlotte NC (704) 588-6600 Derita Precision Machine Company 605 Toddville Road Charlotte NC (704) 392-7285 Diamond Precision Tool 6900 Nations Ford Road Charlotte NC (704) 523-5141 Dma, Inc. 3123 May Street Charlotte NC (704) 527-0992 Fab Pattern Shop, Inc. 113 W Kingston Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 334-1920 Freeman Machine & Fabrication 4804 Riverdale Drive Charlotte NC (704) 588-0598 Ge Company 12037 Goodrich Drive Charlotte NC (704) 587-1300 General Projects, Inc. 9521 Dixie River Road Charlotte NC (704) 394-7031 Grinding & Metals, Inc. 1200 Westinghouse Boulevard # O Charlotte NC (704) 588-5999 Grob Corp. 1301 Westinghouse Boulevard # I Charlotte NC (704) 588-4310 H & H Machine Shop 307 W Tremont Avenue # Z Charlotte NC (704) 376-8016 H & H Polishing 7632 Frosch Road Charlotte NC (704) 393-8728 Hardcoatings, Inc. 2601 Lucena Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 377-2996 Harper Corp. Of America 11625 Steele Creek Road Charlotte NC (704) 588-3371 Holder Machine & Manufacturing, Inc. 439 Lawton Road Charlotte NC (704) 399-4934 Ideal Tool & Die Company 3021 Bank Street Charlotte NC (704) 527-3651 Industrial & Compressor, Inc. 3101 S Tryon Street Charlotte NC (704) 523-3182 International Piping Service Company 3708 Performance Road Charlotte NC (704) 398-0655 M & M Machine Company 5701 Orr Road Charlotte NC (704) 596-2321 MBI Coatings 301 Crompton Street Charlotte NC (704) 588-9290 Martex Machinery, Inc. 3230 Piper Lane Charlotte NC (704) 357-8861 Mercer Machine & Tool Company 540 W 32nd Street Charlotte NC (704) 333-1923 Metal Coating Process Corp. 6101 Idlewild Road # 134 Charlotte NC (704) 568-8383 Metro Metal & Design, Inc. 2313 S Tryon Street Charlotte NC (704) 334-9871 Micron Precision 9200 Stockport Place Charlotte NC (704) 583-0486 Mirror Image Plating, Inc. 518 Atando Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 370-6566 Modern Mold & Tool Company 2101 N Davidson Street Charlotte NC (704) 377-2300 National Plating Company 3004 Bank Street Charlotte NC (704) 523-0433 Newton Machine Company 1120 N Hoskins Road Charlotte NC (704) 392-6183 Nissei Corp. Of America 8227 Arrowridge Boulevard Charlotte NC (704) 527-9876 Operating & Maintenance Specs 130 Southside Drive Charlotte NC (704) 523-4031 Pearson Manufacturing Company 2701 Doctor Carver Road Charlotte NC (704) 332-5829 Piedmont Machine & Manufacturing, Inc. 3731 Philemon Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 376-7911 Precision Dynamics, Inc. 1033 Carter Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 338-5887 Precision Tech Machine Company 4114 Sudbury Road Charlotte NC (704) 567-5055 Precision Welding & Mach Company 4701 Beam Road Charlotte NC (704) 357-1288 Production Tool & Die Company 537 Scholtz Road Charlotte NC (704) 525-0498 Quality Machining & Repair 700 Herrin Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 375-3251 Quality Products & Machine Company 444 Wolfberry Street Charlotte NC (704) 375-3797 R & H Machine & Fabrication Company 3009 Griffith Street Charlotte NC (704) 527-4348 Roll Services 1537 E Sugar Creek Road # A Charlotte NC (704) 333-6216 Southeastern Enterprises 3208 Benard Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 373-1750 Southern Aluminum Finishing Company 2322 Dunavant Street Charlotte NC (704) 376-8663 Specialty Machine Works 3213 N Davidson Street Charlotte NC (704) 376-7057 Stamp Source 2001 N Davidson Street Charlotte NC (704) 372-5291 Stone Heavy Duty 3740 N Interstate 85 Svc Road Charlotte NC (704) 596-6967 Titan Converting Equipment 9800 Southern Pines Boulevard Charlotte NC (704) 561-7320 Union Special Corp. 1500 Continental Boulevard # Z Charlotte NC (704) 588-7193 Upchurch Machine Company 11633 Fruehauf Drive Charlotte NC (704) 588-2895 WLW Machine Company 511 W Summit Avenue Charlotte NC (704) 375-7722 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 I think he was asking for a good one. Wouldn't buying a new aftermarket one be justifiable since this service costs almost as much as they do and doesn't leave it as light in the end? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zip Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 there are a number of issues in going with a very light weight flywheel. http://www.upgrademotoring.com/performance/jun/ltflywheel.htm JUN makes nice flywheels. I've never used one on a Datsun, but like their quality for my WRX. I strongly recommend that before your buy one, try it on someone's car if possible. For normal street and most competitive driving, a lightened steel flywheel is fine. For a turbo set-up and drag racing applications - by all means go with a stage 4 clutch and a light weight flywheel and have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daemione Posted December 6, 2010 Share Posted December 6, 2010 My Fidanza was $300 shipped - aluminum & 10.5 pounds. It's a daily driver, stock clutch, zero driveability issues at all. I love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradyzq Posted December 7, 2010 Share Posted December 7, 2010 I think he was asking for a good one. Wouldn't buying a new aftermarket one be justifiable since this service costs almost as much as they do and doesn't leave it as light in the end? My point was that Allen has more machine shops in his backyard than any of us. So shipping costs should be zero. Asking around locally will point him to a good shop. If not, then just look for a name on that list (from machineshopweb.com, BTW) that has an automotive slant. I saw Carolinas. It's been there for a million years. Maybe they're a good place to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 there are a number of issues in going with a very light weight flywheel. http://www.upgrademotoring.com/performance/jun/ltflywheel.htm JUN makes nice flywheels. I've never used one on a Datsun, but like their quality for my WRX. I strongly recommend that before your buy one, try it on someone's car if possible. For normal street and most competitive driving, a lightened steel flywheel is fine. For a turbo set-up and drag racing applications - by all means go with a stage 4 clutch and a light weight flywheel and have fun. Awe figures the rb26 fly is the heaviest one they make (probably for awd though?). Also the most expensive. :/ Is it worth $500 to save 5lbs? I've never been sure just how much benefit a lighter fly adds. They say the engineer each one to be optimal like if it were lighter than that it would actually have more negative effects, but that seems like more of a sales pitch than anything. I haven't heard of the two piece aluminum ones coming apart either. JGY has two piece for $300 and they're only 10.5lbs! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zip Posted December 8, 2010 Share Posted December 8, 2010 This is the machined profile for my flywheel Various machine shops will use different profiles for making the flywheel lighter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zip Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 There's this one on ebay that weighs just under 10 lbs Cost is about $379 because of shipping from Japan. Looks cool. Interesting when you compare it to mine above. Not much metal left on the one from Japan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 (edited) That shave job looks a bit heavy. About 17#? The bottom one looks like the Tomei or Kameari CrMoly, and is a nice flywheel. It is NOT LIGHTENED, that is the way it's made! You can't shave a stock wheel down to 9-10# simply because the cast material won't support the stresses. The CrMoly unit is forced billet with HUGE strength compared to the stock flywheel's cast material. That allows cross-sections to be thinner with equal strength. Cost is due to its what it costs. Shipping is not that much. If you look at the local price in Yen, you realize the price isn't that bad at all. I have several of those, and they are pretty intense if you aren't a good smooth clutch-shifter person. Edited December 9, 2010 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zip Posted December 9, 2010 Share Posted December 9, 2010 Tony, the pictured one is likely a knock-off of Tomei or Kameari. I pulled that picture from their eBay listing. I have no idea what 'Sideway original' means. Made in Japan: Sideway original light weight billet flywheel FOR A NISSAN/DATSUN 240Z, 280Z. Engine type: L20, L24, L28 weight: 4.2kg Those parts are racing or track use only. professional installation is highly recommended. have you heard of this 'Sideway' company? On mine ... likely heavier than it could have been, but it's around 16lbs. I weighed it on my bathroom scale once, but I'd have to dig out that number. Not exactly accurate. Works fine in my car. Given my 'granny shifts' it's likely appropriate for me. I noticed no issues with shifting. I do notice it rev's easier, but the car has had so many modifications, it's hard to attribute the free revving to just the flywheel ... likely a combination of things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexicoker Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Just buy one. Flywheels can be subject to some huge forces at high RPM, and after doing analysis on several different lightened flywheels I can tell you for a fact that it is very easy to take off material in such a way that would make it very dangerous. I would not trust one that someone just machined down without doing analysis first or tested afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeoster Posted December 15, 2010 Share Posted December 15, 2010 Buy a quality one imo. Ive seen the effects of a "shaved" one that completely denotated on Skylines Australia and it was total carnage. I'd pay a few hundred just for the piece of mind alone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Here it goes again not giving me notice that someone replied until months later. Probably beat to death but I agree--I wouldn't just shave my stock fly to save weight, you probably can't get away with saving a whole lot anyway. The more weight you want to save, the more scary it looks. I believe my fly is like 22lbs (could be mistaken, it was a while ago) And I can't imagine cutting off half that weight without turning it into a clay pigeon. Is it just me or has that ebay fly got to be the lightest ever, let alone in a one-piece. Unless it's freaking titanium or something, I call shenanigans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 (edited) I have run (an in the JDM it's common) to run the stock flywheel at 15#. These are not for 8000+rpm engines, but for cast piston engines running in more or less the stock rpm range. If you have a sound stock flywheel, lightening it in a competent manner (as done universally in the 80's in Japan...to around 15#/6.5-7Kg) doesn't affect anything. Basically you remove the inertia ring at the outermost edges and remove stress risers everywhere else. In that regard, one could argue that a lightened flywheel is SAFER than a stocker with the intertia ring intact! All those stress risers, big moment away from rotational centerline... The photographs are NOT of a 'lightened stock flywheel'--you can't do that to one, it has to be a forged or stamped steel unit, the cast material doesn't have the strength to support that cross-sectional area. The BIGGEST difference I saw between USA and JDM machine work on the flywheels was that the Japanese units didn't mess with anything behind the frictional surface other than taking enough off to remove casting irregularities (stress risers) while most of the US-Lightened units thinned that area out, as well as the cross-sectional area where the hub mounts to the crank snout. The Japanese worked the intertia ring and ring gear extensively, but left everything inside the frictional surface pretty much alone. This results in drastic changes in performance response compared to the stocker. Very startling change, my 15# iron flywheel runs like an 11# Tilton. If I was having one lightened, that is what I would pay attention to when at the shop. <EDIT>on the 4.2Kg, yeah they are that light. I have some. They are real and have been around for years. THe ring gear is integral, not a separate piece. It's a one-piece forging. As for 'lightest'--well there are plenty of multiple piece units that, INCLUDING CLUTCH AND PRESSURE PLATE weigh under 15# TOTAL! And they have significantly reduced Moment of Inertia, the perormance is brutal. Edited February 17, 2011 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 I have a 240mm flywheel. It's been shaved down to around 17lbs. I guess they could have gone lighter, but it's held up for 9 years so far. Nigel '73 240ZT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted February 17, 2011 Share Posted February 17, 2011 (edited) I bought Ron's old machined 225mm flywheel. I think he had it down to around 14lbs or so. Ron am I right? Anyway, I run it on my 240Z with the L28 bonestock, with triples, and headers. It will never see anything past 6000 in this config, so it should be OK. I run the Fidanza on the turbo car. I love the effect of the light flywheels, it really fits my style of driving. Edited February 17, 2011 by cygnusx1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 I'm kind of partial to heavier flywheels.....unless this is a dedicated road racing car. After years of running a light flywheel on my 13-b RX-2 with J-ports, finances caused me to go back to the stocker for a bit and it ended up being the perfect combination such that it allowed me to "store" more energy which was needed to launch the car. Once hooked up, the extra mass actually helped the car from breaking traction in second gear once it came on really hard because it help resist the engine running away rapidly if traction wasn't perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
getoffmyinternet Posted May 23, 2011 Share Posted May 23, 2011 I have run (an in the JDM it's common) to run the stock flywheel at 15#. These are not for 8000+rpm engines, but for cast piston engines running in more or less the stock rpm range. If you have a sound stock flywheel, lightening it in a competent manner (as done universally in the 80's in Japan...to around 15#/6.5-7Kg) doesn't affect anything. Basically you remove the inertia ring at the outermost edges and remove stress risers everywhere else. In that regard, one could argue that a lightened flywheel is SAFER than a stocker with the intertia ring intact! All those stress risers, big moment away from rotational centerline... <EDIT>on the 4.2Kg, yeah they are that light. I have some. They are real and have been around for years. THe ring gear is integral, not a separate piece. It's a one-piece forging. As for 'lightest'--well there are plenty of multiple piece units that, INCLUDING CLUTCH AND PRESSURE PLATE weigh under 15# TOTAL! And they have significantly reduced Moment of Inertia, the perormance is brutal. In that case, which would you recommend for something that scant, between a three piece custom unit or a seriously lightened original? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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