Radiator Opinioins

[SUNNY Z]

I've been doing a lot of research on what type / size of radiator i want in my LSx 280z. I've seen quite a few guys running the JTR radiator, and several others.

 

One that caught my eye was the Wizard Cooling radiator, which I know 1tuffz, and evilc both run. This unit runs about $400, but is gorgeous, and a nice fit.

 

------> http://wizardcooling.com/shop/ProductDetails.aspx?BaseID=69

 

I am simply looking for a radiator that will cool amazing, in any weather, and that I'll never have to replace, even when 6-700 rwhp comes around.

 

Everyone feel free to chime in on their opinions / experiences.

[SUNNY Z]

Apparently no one here has a radiator? JK

 

I spoke with a gent at Wizard cooling for about 15 minutes today. Good people. He recommended a down flow radiator, very similar to the one listed on their website. When I told him of the future plans (600+ whp) for the car, he thought I might want to opt for dual 1.25" cores. This would however, ad about .5" to the core, further decreasing space in the engine bay.

 

So i guess the question is:

 

What is the HP limit on the JTR unit? Does anyone have problems with them? What fan setup would you recommend?

[ShaggyZ]

No idea, but I do wonder why he recommended a downflow. Did he explain?

[m1noel]

Ok, so I've tried to post here twice. It shows up, then disapears. Or is it just in my head..... I only have experience with my set up. JTR radiator with John's fan and shroud. They fit together really well, and seem to work just fine. I have driven in stop and go traffic at 105F with the AC on and the fan's high speed rarely kicks in. I hadn't seen the Wizard unit before but it looks really nice. Can't tell you that what I have is the best, only how it has works for me.

Mike

Edited December 17, 2010 by m1noel

[SUNNY Z]

Alrighty. Thanks for your input.

[hoov100]

To be perfectly honest here, with how cheap an all aluminum radiator is ($150-250 through speedwaymotors.com) I don't know why people would even consider the JTR radiator, when you can get new ones through napa for $50 less and you don't have to pay for shipping! This is all just my opinion here, but why would you spend that kind of money for a stock radiator with PLASTIC END TANKS! I have lost count on how many plastic radiators end tanks that have broken or started leaking even from normal driving, while I can count on two fingers how many all aluminum radiators that have broken or started leaking!

[SUNNY Z]

Thats what I'm sayin! If I'm gonna pay more than $300 for a radiator, I want to make sure it's going to be an all aluminum, fully tig welded unit.

 

I've heard horror stories of how even Griffin radiators (yes all aluminum) have epoxy holding the cores in place, and that if you get them way hot, or even just after many heat cycles, the epoxy begins to deteriorate, and leads to failure. I'm calling my local (extremely well respected) radiator place tomorrow, to try and get a ballpark for a one off unit. This guy has built for the best. Even made a radiator for one of Niel Young's cars. Not to mention a certain BBC / weiand 14-17 blower 240z here in KS.

[hoov100]

Thats what I'm sayin! If I'm gonna pay more than $300 for a radiator, I want to make sure it's going to be an all aluminum, fully tig welded unit.

 

I've heard horror stories of how even Griffin radiators (yes all aluminum) have epoxy holding the cores in place, and that if you get them way hot, or even just after many heat cycles, the epoxy begins to deteriorate, and leads to failure. I'm calling my local (extremely well respected) radiator place tomorrow, to try and get a ballpark for a one off unit. This guy has built for the best. Even made a radiator for one of Niel Young's cars. Not to mention a certain BBC / weiand 14-17 blower 240z here in KS.

 

Go to speedway or afco's website and get one that's closest to the dimensions you need. I know the speedway brand radiator's are either tru-kool or afco's in a speedway box and are fully tig welded. I have seen the epoxy literally blow out of the radiator at the track and it's not pretty, I have also taken the end tanks off some of the cheaper radiators and have noticed the cores where blown. (seen it on a couple koyo's as well)

[SUNNY Z]

Go to speedway or afco's website and get one that's closest to the dimensions you need. I know the speedway brand radiator's are either tru-kool or afco's in a speedway box and are fully tig welded. I have seen the epoxy literally blow out of the radiator at the track and it's not pretty, I have also taken the end tanks off some of the cheaper radiators and have noticed the cores where blown. (seen it on a couple koyo's as well)

 

 

Have you ever used a speedway unit in an S30 before? The thing I'm concerned about is fitment.

[Lt. Cdr. Tom Dodge]

Not trying to change the topic but I think with the S30, getting air flow through the radiator is probably more important than which radiator to choose. I have read the JTR and the thicker 100% aluminum radiators do an admirable job of cooling, more than adequate so long as they have the air flow through them to remove the heat. A good fan is part of that, reading through the windtunnel discussions, the Aero modifications like ducting the grill opening directly to the radiator opening all 4 sides, sealing the core support all appear to have the largest impact on improving cooling efficiency.

sorry for off topic.

[RS Speed]

PRC racing radiators are super affordable and come in a ton of variations as far as size, inlet/outlet locations, built in oil cooler etc....

 

Lot of the RB guys are running them including myself and when everyones car is overheating at willow springs on a hot day my car is still chillin!

 

http://www.prcracing.com/aluminum-radiators.html

 

 

I bought from them direct... its the cheapest this way. Came out to 250 shipped for a fully tig welded aluminum radiator WITH an oil cooler and AN fittings. Click on the signature link to see some shots of the radiator setup.

Edited December 14, 2010 by RS Speed

[240zip]

I got the 240Z radiator from Wizard Cooling (there was a link earlier). When I got the product a few years back there weren't that many alternatives *like the sub $200 ones on eBay*. The quality of the radiator from Wizard is good and unlike generic radiators, the tubes to connect up to my OEM radiator hoses were spot on. Also, it didn't hang low like a 280Z radiator. They'll also make a custom fan shroud for a reasonable price.

 

Here's the radiator installed on my 240Z

 

 

 

We've had no cooling issues, but it hasn't been all that warm since we've been testing the car.

[z2go]

Hoov,

 

On the subject of plastic/aluminum vs all aluminum, the theory behind that is that the all aluminum supposedly have a tendency to crack more easily than the ones with the plastic reservoirs. This is just coming from JTR, not my opinion. I bought the JTR plastic/aluminum radiator for cheap as an unused secondhand item, but have yet to run it as my car is still in build mode. Have you personally had problems with the JTR radiator, or just plastic/aluminum in general?

[SUNNY Z]

I'm gonna have to disagree with you on the plastic v aluminum tank issue. Why would people have custom fully aluminum radiators made if they weren't the best? Also, Aluminum dissipates heat better than plastic, so in theory, you would get more cooling capacity with the same size radiator.

 

After doing some research, I think I'm going to give Howe radiators a call today and try and work on a custom unit for my car. Several guys have had excellent luck with Howe, and at a reasonable price. I believe the last FULL CUSTOM radiator i saw, with AN fittings, was $325 shipped. Definitely worth the money over a stock style radiator, IMO.

[h4nsm0l3m4n]

I've been using the JTR radiator for over 2 years (I bought it used from a guy on this forum). This includes a lot of racing, especially autocross where the car gets pretty hot from sitting a long time in the pits. Now I've been driving it with the LS1 swap. I have the stock fan temp settings so my engine runs fairly hot. So far I've had zero problems or leaks. From what I've seen on here lots of other people have used them too. Though I dont know how many of them have problems can they be that horrible if they get recommended again and again?

 

As far as plastic vs aluminum end tanks, I'm pretty sure OEMs use plastic end tanks in a lot of cars and trucks since they are bit cheaper to manufacture.. Some leak, some dont, but they cant be THAT bad otherwise they just wouldn't be used at all. After all quite a few have lasted 100000+ miles including sitting in traffic on the hottest summer days. I guess if the prices are that similar for an aftermarket radiator I dont see any reason to go with plastic end tanks. With aluminum end tanks I'd worry about the welds cracking from fatigue. Just make sure to rubber mount it, the less stress you put on the radiator the less likely you are to crack it.

 

That being said if youre interested in going for 600+ hp I would think you have 2 options. More straight-forward option would be to put some money into it and build the cooling system to match your power goals. The other option is to buy a used JTR, or other radiator, that you are know will work with the LS1 now. You can get the swap running and iron out any other issues that come up. Then whenever you plan on going to 600+ hp build up the whole system accordingly. This would be cheaper now, but more expensive in the long run.

Edited December 15, 2010 by h4nsm0l3m4n

[z2go]

I'm gonna have to disagree with you on the plastic v aluminum tank issue. Why would people have custom fully aluminum radiators made if they weren't the best? Also, Aluminum dissipates heat better than plastic, so in theory, you would get more cooling capacity with the same size radiator.

 

Like I said, I wasn't stating my opinion, just what others' opinions/positions were. I think it could be argued that people have custom full aluminum radiators made because they are shiny, look sexy, and have the EXPENSIVE taste that one who is going all-out desires. Just because something is the most expensive, doesn't make it the best for every application.

 

Also, you are right, metal is a better conductor of heat than plastic, but I'm pretty sure that the majority (99%) of the cooling capacity is in the core. A small amount of heat can be dissipated by the tank ends, but no better than a pot of boiling water dissipates heat out the sides. There is no real directed airflow around it, and it doesn't have much surface area to dissipate the heat. Now, if you were to use, say, a bunch of computer heat sinks and little fans attached down the side of the reservoir, you might be on to something. However that would totally negate the sexy radiator look.

[smoorenc]

I am running the JTR radiator and 2002 firebird/camaro fans. Everything fit and works great.

[SUNNY Z]

... Now, if you were to use, say, a bunch of computer heat sinks and little fans attached down the side of the reservoir, you might be on to something. However that would totally negate the sexy radiator look.

 

:lol:

 

Haha. Good discussion ppl. keep it coming.

 

And as for the heat dissipation issue, I wasn't trying to imply that there is a "gain" in cooling by adding aluminum end tanks, I was just saying that they work better than plastic, and every little bit counts.

 

SO, does anyone know where i can find a used JTR radiator? If not, I'm just gonna go with a custom Howe unit, which is only about $325, and then probably some aftermarket puller fan, or a set of f body fans if i can get my hands on some.

 

This little purchase is a ways off, as i just bought a tranny, and the next purchase is going to be dash repair and a full set of autometer gauges. Been eyeing the CF version of the ultra lites, but we'll see!

[z2go]

As for a used JTR radiator, you might luck out and find someone on here that is selling one secondhand that has never been used. That's how I found mine.

[hoov100]

Have you ever used a speedway unit in an S30 before? The thing I'm concerned about is fitment.

 

That's why you measure your core and find the closest fitting one. If I can make a 2" thick double pass fit in a z32 with an electric fan and still have plenty of clearance and without cutting anything, then the s30 should be a breeze.