Luna: The cause of, and solution to, all of my problems

[darom]

Good job on the whole restoration, Andy!

 

A few comments if you allow:

- I would have installed the electric oil pressure sending unit with the later year oil pressure gauge (or aftermarket). I never felt comfortable having oil/fuel lines running inside of the vehicle. If you decide to go that route, don't forget to order NPT to British NPT adaptor for the Datsun block.

- To save time and money making your custom gauge panels, try finding a plastic shop in town which sells plexiglass panels. They are cheap, thick and can be bent when heated. They are easily cut and come in different colors. My favorite is the black finish with the same pattern as the Datsun interior panels. No need to sand and re-apply multiple layers of fiberglass .

 

With best regards!

Denis

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Well it has been a LONG time since I last updated my build thread. Well a whole lot has changed yet again since my last post.

 

Despite a squeaky alternator belt, I got the car running on the SU's but soon after this video was taken my rear carb decided to pour gas out on the floor, demanding a rebuild. (holds great oil pressure doesn't it? Haha!)

 

http://s524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/?action=view&current=photobucket-2848-1323406183412.mp4

 

So with that in mind, I did NOT want to spend ANY money to remain a carbureted vehicle, as my overall goal for this car is a L28et turbocharged application; WOAH! Surprising and original, I know.

 

So I decided to convert the car to fuel injection. I rationalized this by saying that it would be the first step to making the car able to accept a turbo application down the road, by upgrading my fuel system.

 

Finally it was time to address my car's wiring woes.....

 

I stripped the interior out of the car, pulled the dash (wasn't NEARLY as horrible as I imagined) and bought a set of Autometer Phantom Gauges.

 

Also bought the MSA Headlight relay upgrade harness, the running light/dash light harness, and the modern blade style fuse box.

 

I'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rust Proofing:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FUEL TANK - FUEL LINE install (5/16'' hard line with a 1975 Gas tank and stock fuel pump)

 

(I don't have a picture, but I had it boiled and I painted the tank with the Hammerite enamel, it looks good, take my word for it, sorry)

 

 

 

 

-Used the stock brackets.I LOVE how clean it turned out. Had to drill the old bushings to accept the 5/16 but it was worth it.

 

 

 

CARBURETOR to FUEL INJECTION

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THIS IS WHERE I AM TODAY:

 

 

 

 

Ready to start going through the systems one by one, and finally wire the car the way I want it, like adding stupid little LED lights that come on when you open the door by your feet, and a Painless remote battery shut off switch, a maintenance charger, and a tradtional 12 volt outlet.

 

I will keep you posted, and I will try to take more pictures of the things I forgot to cover above, like the finished gas tank install, my fuel pump location and install, and other miscellaneous nonsense.

 

Hope everything is going well with everyone, and I'm working on the car nonstop now, so I will be sure to update often.

 

Cheers!

Edited March 1, 2012 by OldAndyAndTheSea

[Jasonmreiss]

How is that hammerite to work with? I almost bought some the other day, there's no por15 around this town and it's super spendy anyway. How much did it cost, and did a gallon of each cover the whole interior?

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

How is that hammerite to work with? I almost bought some the other day, there's no por15 around this town and it's super spendy anyway. How much did it cost, and did a gallon of each cover the whole interior?

 

 

I love Hammerite. It's pretty much Bulletproof. I would say it is DEFINITELY on par with POR-15.

 

It's pretty thick stuff, so after about 15 minutes of painting your wrists will let you know whats up.

 

I bought 1 Quart of the Aluminum Primer and 2 quarts of the Black Hammered Finish Enamel. The primer covered the whole interior front to back, and I used about 1 1/2 quarts of the back making sure it was covered.

 

I think it was around 12 bucks a quart.

 

I would recommend it to ANYONE.

 

POR-15 is good, but I would say Hammerite is JUST as good. But in the end its all preference.

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Got a few more little things done on the car, like finishing brackets and minor detail things...

Started in with diagnosing wiring and tracing wire origins.

Also got around to making a mounting plate for my new maintenance charger.









(Mounted to the stock bumper brackets) Placement was right on for the hinge clearance.



-Bought a Painless master battery disconnect switch kit to be mounted on the firewall and the switch hidden inside.

-Installed 280z Gas tank, bad shot but you get the idea.

Longer J-Bolts are required for the swap. (have since swapped to 280z Jbolts)

White LED lights to be mounted under the dash shining on the floor area, hooked up to a switch and the door jam switches as well

Swapped over my new gaskets and replaced my goofy Rose sandblasted quarter windows (if you don't know what I'm talking about check back to ANY picture of the windows before, you'll understand)

Cheap little bracket arm thing that came with my filter, installed using a rubber hose covering the end to prevent vibration scratches.


Nothing major but more to come


Take care all!

Edited January 26, 2014 by OldAndyAndTheSea

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

It's ALIVE!!! Second start video.

 

http://s524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/?action=view&current=photobucket-5024-1332619942924.mp4

 

Exciting.

[Josh280z]

Sounds good! Liking your project wish I had 240 of my own.

[Dershum]

I love Hammerite. It's pretty much Bulletproof. I would say it is DEFINITELY on par with POR-15.

 

It's pretty thick stuff, so after about 15 minutes of painting your wrists will let you know whats up.

 

I bought 1 Quart of the Aluminum Primer and 2 quarts of the Black Hammered Finish Enamel. The primer covered the whole interior front to back, and I used about 1 1/2 quarts of the back making sure it was covered.

 

I think it was around 12 bucks a quart.

 

I would recommend it to ANYONE.

 

POR-15 is good, but I would say Hammerite is JUST as good. But in the end its all preference.

 

Out of curiosity, what did you use to prep the surface other than scrape and clean it off?

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Out of curiosity, what did you use to prep the surface other than scrape and clean it off?

 

 

I took my large 6 inch wire wheel and removed all the factory paint to bare metal, and used my smaller 3 inch wire wheel for the hard to reach areas, like under the driver's pedals, and corner areas.

 

Hammerite will definitely stick to sanded paint, but I figured, "while I was down there" that I would regret not taking all previous material off the car.

 

150-180 grit is a good choice of sandpaper for the hammerite to stick to, but I'd knock down the stubborn areas with something a bit more abrasive, like a 40 or 60.

 

If rust is present, media blasting is pretty much the only "GOOD" way to clean the metal.

 

Thanks for the comments guys, it means a lot!

 

I'm in the process of installing my new carpet, and I need to test fit my dash harness, then wrap it, then MAYBE, jut MAYBE will I be able to throw the dash back in there, can't wait to see those Phantoms. Mmmmmmm delicious.

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

UPDATES:

Stock fuel pump has been giving me fuel pressure issues so I am swapping it out for a Walbro 255 inline tomorrow, then she will run like a top.

 

Oh.... And how could I forget.

 

I installed my dash!

 

I apologize for the pictures, man it's hard to photograph Black interior inside, and FORGET about a lit up gauge pic. This is the best I could do. I'm going to have to figure that one out, once the car leaves her jack stands.

 

 

The Green indicator lights are my relocated blinker/hazard lights and the toggle switch in the middle turns on my 2.5'' White LEDs mounted under the dash.

 

Also, I wet sanded and removed the "fasten seat belt" indicator so now it is just a red lense that tells me when my highbeams are on, and the choke light is my alternator failure dummy light, since I don't have the space for a voltmeter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And here are the Autopal h4's that are offered for our car, coupled with the MSA upgraded headlight relay.

Please note, the car is not running. I know many people wonder what some of the headlight upgrades look like, I sure did.

 

 

 

 

 

Next step is bolt in my seats (fooled you into thinking they were IN there didn't I?) and then I get to move back to finishing up some touch up paint and body work.

 

Then the most satisfying detail session ever.

 

Couldn't be more Stoked-er!!!

 

 

Oh. Found these random interior pictures, so here's an edit.

 

 

Thanks for looking!

Edited April 19, 2012 by OldAndyAndTheSea

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Threw in the walbro 255, and she started up again.

 

Third start 180 Degree Motor

 

http://s524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/?action=view&current=photobucket-20006-1334973775522.mp4

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Changed the mounting of my four points.... Now they won't snap my spine in half if I hit anything. Haha!

 

 

 

 

Next on the list:

 

1.) Energy Suspension Poly bushing master kit install (mainly just the fronts for now, until I change my rear end stuff down the line, then I'll do the rears)

 

2.) Drive the stupid car.

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Walk around video

 

Sorry its dark in some spots

 

Can't wait to release her from prison

 

http://s524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/?action=view&current=photobucket-521-1336350578137.mp4

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Well a quick update.

 

I've been driving the car as my daily driver all summer.

 

Fixing little quirks here and there.

 

But today I had a little fun.

 

Since it took me 3 months to get my car inspected, I burned through a set of tires on a bad alignment

 

so what's a guy to do?

 

Take the turbo 280zx rims and swap em to the 240.

 

 

Here's before

 

After

 

 

 

 

Definitely still not wide enough, but after my alignment, I'm gonna stick my 1 1/4 spacers in there. Give it a little poke, at least temporarily until I can afford some coilovers.

 

Swazzys!!!

 

 

 

 

Also, I've never mentioned that I am an avid sailor (surprised by my account name) but I just bought a new sailboat. It's an International 14. For those of you who don't know, these boats average speeds in the 12+ knot range on most days, and frequent over 20 knots in decent breeze. They are a couple feet smaller than the skiff boats in the Olympics, the 49ers.

 

100% carbon fiber hull, mast, and boom.

 

Sexay

 

 

Definitely the most fun experience ever (next to the Z of course)

 

here's a pic, since I can hardly control myself while around the boat.

 

[78zstyle]

Hey what seats and harnesses are those? I like em.

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Hey what seats and harnesses are those? I like em.

 

 

The seats are some eBay specials I bought around 5 years ago. That's all the info I have on them really, sorry.... I'll say they only cost 200 bucks delivered to my door. I consider them by far the best investment for the car. They have to be adjusted perfectly otherwise they "Squish" a little. Haha. The harnesses are just bare bones Nismo 4 point harnesses.

 

 

I also just got a gopro so......

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Videos to come. I promise

Edited August 25, 2012 by OldAndyAndTheSea

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Okay so update: Walbro decided to die this past Saturday. I had fried my old fusible link due to my alternator upgrade. Didn't notice the voltage drop til later. So I believe this was the cause of the overall fuel pump failure 2 days or so after. Or maybe its just coincidence? Either way, I'm ordering a new one, and while I wait....

 

I finally decided to begin to piece together my initial turbo setup for the winter. Best part is 95% of the parts were already owned

 

I've pieced together pretty much everything but..

 

I have a few questions regarding the turbo harness. This is out of a 82 zxt.

 

 

 

 

First question: In regards to the following picture; I am wiring this into a 1973 240z, I don't know if these wires are used in the swap and the page of my haynes manual that has the wiring diagram is completely faded and illegible. Where do they go? Any help would be appreciated. Wire Colors are

 

White with link

White

White/Black

Red

 

 

And if they carry power...Can one be tied into my fuel pump relay constant?

 

Here are pictures of my fuel pump relay part of the harness.

 

 

 

Second Question: Is the blue wire with the red stripe 12v switched power? Wasn't able to confirm.

 

Third Question: I am relocating my cylinder head temp sensor to my thermostat housing (n42 head), is there a water temperature sensor to supplement this reading to the ECU or does the cylinder head do the whole job? I see a water temp sensor, but I think this is for the gauge? Which doesn't apply to my swap. Am I correct in assuming so? And if there IS a water temp sensor for the ECU (FI ONLY) what does it look like?

 

 

I think that's all for now, I used Bumble Zee's and Zeerari's guide/supplement for the information thus far, and only need those couple questions figured out to make the swap smoother.

 

Thank you for looking, and I hope some kind fella or lady will help.

 

 

 

Here are some pictures of my layout so far. Stock Harness ECU and AFM from a 1982 280zx Turbo

 

 

 

 

 

 

When I do the swap I'm most definitely going to write an intensively documented guide on how to swap an 1982 harness into a 240z.

 

I'm initially going with a Stock 1982 zxt Harness with stock t3 turbo, FMIC, MSA 2.5 inch downpipe, BOV daily driver setup, on my N42/N42 Turbo L28 Build. Very excited!

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Okay, so I have continuted acquiring my turbo build pieces, I am very close to finishing.

Here's what I have purchased so far. (this is a N42/N42 combination head/block) 8.3:1 static compression with 2000 miles on a fresh rebuild


-Turbo oil pan

-Turbo oil pan pickup (rear sump)

-21x8x2.5 FMIC

-2.25'' aluminum intercooler piping

-Pallnet (barbed) fuel rail

-60mm 240sx Throttle body, and spacer, which I modified for the stock linkage.

-Stock 270cc injectors (until I tune the car)

-MSA 2.5'' Downpipe

-ACT 240mm Street Performance clutch kit



Those are the bigger pieces.

I have still yet to purchase the following items. (should happen throughout the next few weeks/winter)

-240mm Flywheel (preferably lightened)

-3 row aluminum radiator

-10 inch puller radiator fan (electric)to make room for the intercooler piping.

-Greddy Type- RZ blow off valve

-Oil Cooler

-Innovate LC-1 wideband

-Megasquirt II PCB v.3.0 (no longer going with the stock electronic swap, even after I labeled every wire from my donor harness haha..)


I'm excited. As for the pictures, I haven't taken too many pictures but here's a mock up of my intercooler and piping (leading to those nice 6-1 headers hahaha)














More to come!! Once I get my brass plugs today, I will start shaving my non egr n42 intake manifold. Pictures and write ups will follow!

Edited January 26, 2014 by OldAndyAndTheSea

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Okay. So while I wait for some goodies. (ACT Clutch/Pallnet fuel rail/240mm flywheel/exhaust flanges for 3'' exhaust etc...)

 

I started shaving my intake manifold. It is an N42 Non EGR intake manifold.

 

Eliminated all bungs except provisions for, the brake booster, the fuel pressure regulator, and a mechanical boost gauge.

 

I'll let the rest of the pictures do the talking.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

High Temp Primer

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sanded-320 Wet

 

 

 

 

Painted GM Blue

 

 

 

 

 

Better outside pictures to come when the paint fully cures. I think it turned out great.

 

 

EDIT: outside pics!

 

 

 

 

Edited October 31, 2012 by OldAndyAndTheSea

[OldAndyAndTheSea]

Pallnet fuel rail!

 

Such a nice piece..LOVE it!! Thanks Pallnet!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 4, 2012 by OldAndyAndTheSea